It just happened!

This Jeep is testing my patience. Third week and third rock in the windshield. Also, with warmer weather, this showed up today. After installing a kit for this. I received a"hot start" code. :mad:
I purchased a short strip of insulation and wrapped the #3 injector. No more heat soak.

This guy rebuilt the whole injector assembly. I'd suggest you start with just the insulation wrap.
 
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I purchased a short strip of insulation and wrapped the #3 injector. No more heat soak.

This guy rebuilt the whole injector assembly. I'd suggest you start with just the insulation wrap.
I wrapped the fuel rail and injectors already, which didn't seem to help. I'll go back in and check injector 3 again though.

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It looks like you insulated the rail, but not the injector body, but looks like you are on track for that next.
 
The last few weeks have been focused on family and home projects. However, the build is firming up and some parts have come in. Thanks to Blaine's help, I have the critical parts for a full size 1/2 ton hub conversion (more details to come later on this one). He also put together a big brake kit, which has massive calipers compared to stock. This combination requires 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern wheels, which means the stock Moab wheels will have to go. At this point I'll be keeping those, in the event they're needed if/when I start pulling parts of the TJ.

Having gone round and round with different tires, this build is biased to what the Jeep will do most, i.e. drive on the pavement, in a variety of conditions. My tire size choice has been made and will be a 285/70R17. This translates to a 33x11.50, which meets my "narrow" tire upper limit for maximum width. For a tire choice, I really wanted the Mickey Thomson Baja Boss A/T. However, it only comes in either a 10 or 4 ply configuration. My backup is the Falken WildPeak A/T3W, which is C rated (6 Ply), and I've had good experiences with that tire to date (It's on both my truck and the LJ currently).

https://www.falkentire.com/tires/light-truck-suv-cuv-tires/wildpeaka/t3w-tire
So far, my favorite contenders for wheels are the Vision Manx II Overland and the Raceline Outlander. The wheel choice is partially driven by a design that appeals to me, along with how easy it will be to repair, in the event of damage. More research is needed here on the best fit!

https://realtruck.com/p/vision-grey-manx-ii-overland-wheels/vwi-355-7985sg-12/
  • 17x9
  • Back Spacing: 4.5"
  • Offset -12mm
  • Center Bore: 108.0mm
  • Load Rating: 2500lbs

https://realtruck.com/p/raceline-grey-outlander-wheels/v/jeep/cj-8/1983/
  • 17x8.5
  • Back Spacing: 5.46"
  • Offset 18mm
  • Center Bore: 106.5mm
  • Load Rating: 2500lbs
 
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The last few weeks have been focused on family and home projects. However, the build is firming up and some parts have come in. Thanks to Blaine's help, I have the critical parts for a full size 1/2 ton hub conversion (more details to come later on this one). He also put together a big brake kit, which has massive calipers compared to stock. This combination requires 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern wheels, which means the stock Moab wheels will have to go. At this point I'll be keeping those, in the event they're needed if/when I start pulling parts of the TJ.

Having gone round and round with different tires, this build is biased to what the Jeep will do most, i.e. drive on the pavement, in a variety of conditions. My tire size choice has been made and will be a 285/70R17. This translates to a 33x11.50, which meets my "narrow" tire upper limit for maximum width. For a tire choice, I really wanted the Mickey Thomson Baja Boss A/T. However, it only comes in either a 10 or 4 ply configuration. My backup is the Falken WildPeak A/T3W, which is C rated (6 Ply), and I've had good experiences with that tire to date (It's on both my truck and the LJ currently).

https://www.falkentire.com/tires/light-truck-suv-cuv-tires/wildpeaka/t3w-tire
So far, my favorite contenders for wheels are the Vision Manx II Overland and the Raceline Outlander. The wheel choice is partially driven by a design that appeals to me, along with how easy it will be to repair, in the event of damage. More research is needed here on the best fit!

https://realtruck.com/p/vision-grey-manx-ii-overland-wheels/vwi-355-7985sg-12/
  • 17x9
  • Back Spacing: 4.5"
  • Offset -12mm
  • Center Bore: 108.0mm
  • Load Rating: 2500lbs

https://realtruck.com/p/raceline-grey-outlander-wheels/v/jeep/cj-8/1983/
  • 17x8.5
  • Back Spacing: 5.46"
  • Offset 18mm
  • Center Bore: 106.5mm
  • Load Rating: 2500lbs
Surely that is too much backspacing on the second option?
 
Surely that is too much backspacing on the second option?
No. The locking hub setup moves the wheels out 3/4 to 1". Based on previous experience, the second would be preferable. Especially, with the slightly narrower wheel and tire. Since the factory wheels are 5.5" BS, the rear should be fine as well.
 
No. The locking hub setup moves the wheels out 3/4 to 1". Based on previous experience, the second would be preferable. Especially, with the slightly narrower wheel and tire. Since the factory wheels are 5.5" BS, the rear should be fine as well.

The 5x5.5 conversion does not add any width (I have this in my current jeep). The 5x4.5 conversion adds 7/8th of an inch to each side.
 
My tire size choice has been made and will be a 285/70R17

My backup is the Falken WildPeak A/T3W, which is C rated (6 Ply), and I've had good experiences with that tire to date (It's on both my truck and the LJ currently).

These should be in plentiful supply on the low mileage takeoff market since that's the OEM Rubicon/Mojave tire on the Gladiator.
 
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These should be in plentiful supply on the low mileage takeoff market since that's the OEM Rubicon/Mojave tire on the Gladiator.
Fate was with me. I found a set of 5, with 5K miles on them, for $400. Once I pick those up, on Saturday, I'll order wheels.
 
Are you expecting vibrations? Or is there another reason your doing the hub conversion?
For the last 12 years I've been running some variation of hub conversion. When I drive any TJ/LJ now with stock hub bearings, I can feel it in the drivetrain. At this point the main reason I want a hub conversion is so that when I break a front u-joint, stub shaft, axle, ring and pinion, etc. I can still drive the Jeep.