Yep, dual band, well technically, tri-band, shhhh.
Yeah mine will do a lot more than advertised...once I finally figure it out. I finally got a manual for it, Midland sells the same radio but I need to get a DTMF mic for it though.
Yep, dual band, well technically, tri-band, shhhh.
Is that the 25? If you can figure out the discrete/privacy whatever they are codes I'd like to understand how they work.Yeah mine will do a lot more than advertised...once I finally figure it out. I finally got a manual for it, Midland sells the same radio but I need to get a DTMF mic for it though.
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The size of that is really great for a TJ! Looks like the specs are pretty good too for a mobile unit. It'll be interesting to read your impressions on it over the next few weeks.Did a little swap.
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Yep, I wanted to take advantage of the small chassis since our mounting options are limited. So far it's performing well. Got a couple 2M repeater checks locally, as well as GMRS checks, so I know it's working and I've programmed it properly, lol!The size of that is really great for a TJ! Looks like the specs are pretty good too for a mobile unit. It'll be interesting to read your impressions on it over the next few weeks.
I didn't realize Midland made a dual band radio.Yeah mine will do a lot more than advertised...once I finally figure it out. I finally got a manual for it, Midland sells the same radio but I need to get a DTMF mic for it though.
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I didn't realize Midland made a dual band radio.
Ok, now you're showing your age! How old is that radio, lol!As you can see it’s the same radio as mine
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5 - 6 years oldOk, now you're showing your age! How old is that radio, lol!
This is so odd. Sounds like you have tried everything. Obviously you have already removed the front shaft? Motor and trans mounts?Hard top off season is quickly approaching. I've pretty much given up looking for my unicorn Rubi. Prices are insane! So, I'll be continuing with my vibe diagnosis. I'll try a few more pinion angle adjustments, then maybe it's time to think about the t-case. JB Conversions used to offer a complete NP231 with the upgraded 6 planetary gears and wide chain, with their SSYE installed complete, but I don't see it on their website any more. My thinking here is a longer drive shaft and maybe a slightly better angle. As it sits now, I can cruise up to 55 mph before I start to hear the faint harmonic start kicking in. 62-64 mph is the smoothest, so that is usually where I cruise for my commute, unless I'm late. 65+ the hum kicks in and is felt in my seat, but not the steering wheel. Acceleration/deceleration make no change above 65 mph. If I come off the freeway to a down sloped off ramp and come in hot in neutral the harmonic seems quieter below 65 mph, then by the time I coast down to 50 mph it's pretty quiet. I have tried 2 different Adams shafts, replaced the rear ujoint once, and tried a TW shaft with no changes. Sent the TW back and currently have the Adams shaft in.
I'm also considering pulling the rear springs and seeing if I can get away with a longer drive shaft at full bump. If I can gain an inch or so of length without it bottoming out, maybe that could help. Has anyone tried JE Reel's shafts? They are more coin, so wondering if they are worth the extra?
I know you've been through this, but is it rear specific? Meaning the front drive shaft was removed and tested for vibes?Hard top off season is quickly approaching. I've pretty much given up looking for my unicorn Rubi. Prices are insane! So, I'll be continuing with my vibe diagnosis. I'll try a few more pinion angle adjustments, then maybe it's time to think about the t-case. JB Conversions used to offer a complete NP231 with the upgraded 6 planetary gears and wide chain, with their SSYE installed complete, but I don't see it on their website any more. My thinking here is a longer drive shaft and maybe a slightly better angle. As it sits now, I can cruise up to 55 mph before I start to hear the faint harmonic start kicking in. 62-64 mph is the smoothest, so that is usually where I cruise for my commute, unless I'm late. 65+ the hum kicks in and is felt in my seat, but not the steering wheel. Acceleration/deceleration make no change above 65 mph. If I come off the freeway to a down sloped off ramp and come in hot in neutral the harmonic seems quieter below 65 mph, then by the time I coast down to 50 mph it's pretty quiet. I have tried 2 different Adams shafts, replaced the rear ujoint once, and tried a TW shaft with no changes. Sent the TW back and currently have the Adams shaft in.
I'm also considering pulling the rear springs and seeing if I can get away with a longer drive shaft at full bump. If I can gain an inch or so of length without it bottoming out, maybe that could help. Has anyone tried JE Reel's shafts? They are more coin, so wondering if they are worth the extra?
I've removed the front shaft a few times throughout my diagnosis, and have replaced the front shaft, twice, with new Adams shafts.This is so odd. Sounds like you have tried everything. Obviously you have already removed the front shaft? Motor and trans mounts?
I think I'll try this one more time just to remove the front DS from the equation for good, but so far it's rear DS related.I know you've been through this, but is it rear specific? Meaning the front drive shaft was removed and tested for vibes?
What's your rear DS operating angle?I am running 4” lift and my doubler is an inch longer than a 231 with SYE. So I’m pretty short there and have no issues. Crazy how different these TJs can be.
I am not certain. I want to say 20* but that could be inaccurate.What's your rear DS operating angle?
I'd remove the front shaft again. If the vibs go away spend the coin on the small hub kit and finally live in peace. It's a good amount of money but a heck of a lot cheaper than a rubi. Not to mention you'd bail on all the fun trips if your jeep was no longer lifted with 33s. (Yes I'm only thinking of me lol)I've removed the front shaft a few times throughout my diagnosis, and have replaced the front shaft, twice, with new Adams shafts.
Motor mounts replaced with low mileage known good ones I got from @JMT. JKS MML blocks, and new Omix Ada trans mount. The MML made a noticeable improvement. Lowering the t-case skid with washers up to an inch lower, no improvement after the MML.
I think I'll try this one more time just to remove the front DS from the equation for good, but so far it's rear DS related.