Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

Yes. The cut will be right behind the center skid, in front of the mid arm bracket where the frame first becomes parallel. The rear suspension stays fully intact in the frame. New crossmembers will be made to capture and recreate the two rear pairs of body mounts.
How do you attach the tub on the back end at the tailgate?
 
lookin for those small inline mufflers and finding all are gonna have some tone. i assume the 2nd 1 inline is to reduce the tone even more.
what about these silencer/baffle things that go in the pipe? anybody know if they work and don't cause a flow issue?

edited: any thoughts about this? haven't gotten to try it yet. or thoughts for spacing (10" rod +/-) and of coarse they'd be welded onto the rod. or how bout some of those scrunchies packed loose in between 2 of the disc's?

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So I don't have to keep track for your silly ass. We eliminated the charcoal canister and the fuel separator valve. We plumbed it all back together to the relocated leak detection pump on the inner fender at the front which eliminated the vapor hardline going to the rear. We tee'd the two roll-over valves together with -4 and then bumped that up to -6 with a custom tee only because I didn't feel like hunting one down. That -6 comes down next to the harness and goes up to the LDP and tees into the solenoid purge valve hardline under the manifold. I'll try to get some better pics when that is final.

Most may not know Aeroquip push lock hose is fuel rated. That is the smoother one coming down out of the tub. FYI, you will need a connector for the JK fuel pump since the TJ one isn't keyed right. We robbed the one off of the cheap eBay pump I bought for mock up. That is the line in the braided loom, harness to the fuel pump.

The smooth Aeroquip goes from the fuel pump down to the stainless hard line that we cut to length and silver brazed a -6 male onto the end of. That is the connection you see on top of the frame.

Theoretically this should all work without the system knowing what we did.
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wish i mighta seen this when doing mine. best i got was some vague description of stripping the unit, rerouting the tubes and cramming it up underneath.
 
So I don't have to keep track for your silly ass. We eliminated the charcoal canister and the fuel separator valve. We plumbed it all back together to the relocated leak detection pump on the inner fender at the front which eliminated the vapor hardline going to the rear. We tee'd the two roll-over valves together with -4 and then bumped that up to -6 with a custom tee only because I didn't feel like hunting one down. That -6 comes down next to the harness and goes up to the LDP and tees into the solenoid purge valve hardline under the manifold. I'll try to get some better pics when that is final.

Most may not know Aeroquip push lock hose is fuel rated. That is the smoother one coming down out of the tub. FYI, you will need a connector for the JK fuel pump since the TJ one isn't keyed right. We robbed the one off of the cheap eBay pump I bought for mock up. That is the line in the braided loom, harness to the fuel pump.

The smooth Aeroquip goes from the fuel pump down to the stainless hard line that we cut to length and silver brazed a -6 male onto the end of. That is the connection you see on top of the frame.

Theoretically this should all work without the system knowing what we did. View attachment 324395View attachment 324396View attachment 324397
Interesting to see both the pump and the PCM on the ABS tray.
 
wish i mighta seen this when doing mine. best i got was some vague description of stripping the unit, rerouting the tubes and cramming it up underneath.
The problem we couldn't solve was the charcoal canister needing to be higher than the fuel tank to keep liquid fuel out of it. It is for vapors and they don't like liquid fuel at all. That meant we had to put it on top of the tank which offended me or eliminate it which offends me some but not as much as being on top of the tank.

We laid it all out and figured out which line does what relative to the solenoid purge valve, leak detection pump, and fuel tank. That let us replumb everything back together and just treat the canister like it was never there.
 
The problem we couldn't solve was the charcoal canister needing to be higher than the fuel tank to keep liquid fuel out of it. It is for vapors and they don't like liquid fuel at all. That meant we had to put it on top of the tank which offended me or eliminate it which offends me some but not as much as being on top of the tank.

We laid it all out and figured out which line does what relative to the solenoid purge valve, leak detection pump, and fuel tank. That let us replumb everything back together and just treat the canister like it was never there.
mine is a tad low, i had fumes from the raw vent tube and plugged the canister back up, it did fix the issue but it is mid cell level, maybe. the ridiculously long and elevated vent eliminates the chance of splash reaching the end of the line and it should hold a fair bit of fuel if anything gets past the roll over valves b4 they drop.

i still have the important parts, so i might try and piece back enough to rid the CEL someday. my dumb ass lopped of the connectors in the back corner and likely tossed um but we got lots of salvage jeeps around.
 
mine is a tad low, i had fumes from the raw vent tube and plugged the canister back up, it did fix the issue but it is mid cell level, maybe. the ridiculously long and elevated vent eliminates the chance of splash reaching the end of the line and it should hold a fair bit of fuel if anything gets past the roll over valves b4 they drop.

i still have the important parts, so i might try and piece back enough to rid the CEL someday. my dumb ass lopped of the connectors in the back corner and likely tossed um but we got lots of salvage jeeps around.
I bypassed and removed the charcoal canister on mine many years ago. So far the computer hasn't noticed anything different.
 
I bypassed and removed the charcoal canister on mine many years ago. So far the computer hasn't noticed anything different.
toximus showed me the bypass IIRC..........i got all that stuff.

an evap code had me lit b4 i made all the changes. i figured i really didn't care, and that was also stupid. cause i do its drivin me nuts its lit full time.
 
I bypassed and removed the charcoal canister on mine many years ago. So far the computer hasn't noticed anything different.
Same here. When I did the stretch years ago my plan was to do a straight bypass, and if I had any issues with fumes I would put it back in somewhere. No fumes, no codes, ever - so it stayed that way.

I don't think the ECU has any test for the presence of the canister - just that the purge solenoid is working with no leaks. Is that the case?
 
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Same here. When I did the stretch years ago my plan was to do a straight bypass, and if I had any issues with fumes I would put it back in somewhere. No fumes, no codes, ever - so it stayed that way.

I don't think the ECU has any test for the presence of the canister - just that the purge solenoid is working with no leaks. Is that the case?
My memory was that the entire system is pressure based. A decrease in line pressure is what triggers a code. There are no sensors in the canister and not having one shouldn't effect the line pressures.
 
lookin for those small inline mufflers and finding all are gonna have some tone. i assume the 2nd 1 inline is to reduce the tone even more.
what about these silencer/baffle things that go in the pipe? anybody know if they work and don't cause a flow issue?

edited: any thoughts about this? haven't gotten to try it yet. or thoughts for spacing (10" rod +/-) and of coarse they'd be welded onto the rod. or how bout some of those scrunchies packed loose in between 2 of the disc's?

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I would try them. Looks easy enough to remove of you don't like what they do.
 
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At some point you may install a rear Anti-rock so don't overlook a good deal on a TJ specific version since it can be easily modified to work with your stretch. And that is about as simple as it gets.

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