Re-gearing Questions

The Mando

The Mando

Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2021
Messages
49
Location
Colorado
2001 Jeep TJ
33 inch BF Goodrich KO2 tires on 17x9 Fuel Militias
5 inch Currie/Rockjock complete lift
Slip yoke elimination completed
Manual 5 speed transmision NV 3550
4.0L Inline 6
Need to regear for gas milage improvement and lockers for the trails. I had thought about going up to 35s someday but I think I like the 33s.

Just want to get advice and make sure I'm not making any mistakes.
4.56 would be the best ratio?

The kit I've found is the

G2 Axle & Gear Front and Rear Ring and Pinion with Master Install Kits for 97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ & Wrangler Unlimited LJ with Dana 30 Front & Dana 44 Rear and the​

ARB Air Lockers with High Output OnBoard Air Compressor for Front & Rear 30 Spline Dana 44 with 3.92 and Numerically Higher Gear Ratio.​


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I have a 5 speed manual running 456 gears with 33" tires. Very happy with the gears performance. Didn't see if your Jeep was a manual or automatic. However, with a manual, you probably want to consider going up to 488 gears if you are planning to go to 35s.
 
We can't make a valid axle ratio recommendation without knowing if you have the 5-speed manual or 3-speed automatic transmission. The transmission type makes a huge difference to the right ratio choice. And 4.0 or 2.5L engine? Your Profile is devoid of any information about your Jeep. :)
 
suicideking said:
If 35's will ever happen, I'd say 5.13. If you plan to stick with 33's, I'd say 4.88. Though 4.56 wouldn't be bad.

I'd also go for an Eaton E-locker if you don't already have air setup.
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Really? I need to research them some. The whole.wlectro magnet part worries me. I'd think that over time it would be more prone to failure
 
The Mando said:
Oops my bad. I swore I stated manual. I've got a 5 speed manual with the NV and the 4.0 Inline 6
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For 33's, 4.56 would be a great choice. But if your heart knows you'll end up with 35's, look at your rear axle first to see if it's a Dana 35 or Dana 44. A stock Dana 35 is not strong enough for 35's, though it can be upgraded to be strong enough by installing a Super 35 kit. And for 35's, 4.88 is a great choice but 5.13 might be a better choice due to living in Colorado.
 
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I just threw a Super 30 and 35 at my 97...AX-15...4.0...went with 4.88s and I love the e-lockers I put on. Mechanically very simple. No air compressor or lines or solenoids needed!

-Mac
 
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https://www.crawlpedia.com/rpm_gear_calculator.htmGo to Novak if you do not know your gear ratios write those down and plug them into the above site with your different rear end ratios and Tire size, find the Jeep Specs for your power curve for "Fuel Consumption" for your engine (This is going to be the Operating RPM range that it runs using the least amount of fuel (Gallons Per Hour) now you need to use some really truthful driving styles ie: heavy Right Foot Mid to low gearing, or mostly offroad Low Gearing, in-town stop and go daily driver mid to Mid high gearing, or Highway driver mid high to higher gearing, try to find the sweet spot between 33s and 35s FOR YOUR STYLE OF DRIVING and select based on the fuel curve consumption.
 
L J said:
get that thought out of your head 🧐

Colorado? I'd do 4.88s for 33s and 5.13s for 35s (assuming Dana 44 - if Dana 35 add Super35 kit to the mix).
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Pretty sure I'm doing 4.88. I've git the Dana 30s upfront and a 44 in the back. I just need to find a decent place to install and where to buy from.
 
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The Mando said:
Really? I need to research them some. The whole.wlectro magnet part worries me. I'd think that over time it would be more prone to failure
Click to expand...

Up to you if you'd rather have ARB. There is more to go wrong. I have had air leaks before. The locker still worked, but the compressor kept cycling every few seconds. Though the air lockers seem to lock a little quicker than the E-lockers.

Mine was setup with ARB when I bought it, so no reason to switch. I like the ARB. Just think the E-locker is a simpler setup. I haven't heard any complaints from people with E-lockers.
 
I just had 4.88 gears installed in my 5speed 4.0 with 35's. So far very happy with my choice. I was on the fence between 4.88 and the 5.13's... A good deal on a Dynatrac Dana 44 front diff already geared to 4.88 was the decision maker for me... It is more functional than my 3.73's were with 31's... I also went with the ARB lockers and so far so good!
 
sfexeter said:
I just had 4.88 gears installed in my 5speed 4.0 with 35's. So far very happy with my choice. I was on the fence between 4.88 and the 5.13's... A good deal on a Dynatrac Dana 44 front diff already geared to 4.88 was the decision maker for me... It is more functional than my 3.73's were with 31's... I also went with the ARB lockers and so far so good!
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Where did you end up buying from? I'm trying to keep everything under 5k
 
The Mando said:
Where did you end up buying from? I'm trying to keep everything under 5k
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I bought from a local shop. I had the Dana 30 up front that I planned to regear, but the shop
owner had the Dana 44 front someone had backed out on that he cut me a big break on (compared to retail).
 
The Mando said:
Where did you end up buying from? I'm trying to keep everything under 5k
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If you are having a shop do the install, have them purchase the parts. That way they are responsible for the whole job.

If you purchase the parts and there is an issue, what's to stop them from saying it is a bad part? Then you're stuck paying for the labor again!
 
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J Harding said:
If you are having a shop do the install, have them purchase the parts. That way they are responsible for the whole job.

If you purchase the parts and there is an issue, what's to stop them from saying it is a bad part? Then you're stuck paying for the labor again!
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I have a friend that used to be a mechanic. He liked to use the analogy: Do you go to a steak house, bring your own steak, ask them to cook it? Then complain that it doesn't taste right?
 
X2 to the above advice to NOT buy your own parts to give to a shop to install. Have the shop provide ALL of the parts so they can't blame the parts you provided if there's a problem and there commonly is during or after a regearing.

If anything goes wrong they'd blame the parts you provided and the gear supplier you bought them from would blame the installer and, generally speaking, it's always the installer's fault when a gear installation goes bad. Don't give them any 'outs' on making sure everything is working properly without any unusual sounds.

Even if it costs you an extra $200 for the parts it's worth the peace of mind.
 
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