Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver

is this not just a byproduct of upper link triangulation vs stock spread?
Slight difference in roll center.
What is lost in translation is we don't run without swaybars generally and we upgrade everything else when we raise the ride height, why not the swaybar(s) as well?
We don't run without shocks, why not make them work well in the process?

Put the whole package together, get a decent amount of wheel travel but not at the expense of needing high dollar drive shafts because all that droop now binds the rear CV. I know center limit straps work but they are a pain.

Make the whole package work together and stop trying to focus too much on one aspect at the expense of other things, bring it into balance throughout.
 
Just so everyone is clear. I am not the tiniest bit against rear track bars to adjust the roll center. I am very much against having unequal axle shift on the tight builds. I've put coil overs on several rigs with either a combination of too narrow axles and tall tires or some other combination of parameters that limits how much side to side shift I can deal with. On the current one, the coil overs at limited to 14" of travel split 7.5 up and the rest down. At full articulation, the tire sidewall rubs on the preload adjuster nuts on one side and the springs hit the bottom of the frame cut out on the other side. They can't lean any further back or they will poke through the tail lights. If there was a track bar, I'd have to make some serious compromises that neither me or the owner would be happy with.

The cut out in the frame? It is an inch past the inside of the frame.
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i very much prefer the changes i've made over what i had b4. i think the upper triangulation, loss of the TB and extended link length's all work together to make a more nimble machine.

the secret y'all mention, is no secret............ if your tuned into this group we been watchin months worth of dialing in the tuning in another thread. and i don't feel something that can be complimented with other tools and dialed to a preference is even an issue.
 
i very much prefer the changes i've made over what i had b4. i think the upper triangulation, loss of the TB and extended link length's all work together to make a more nimble machine.

the secret y'all mention, is no secret............ if your tuned into this group we been watchin months worth of dialing in the tuning in another thread. and i don't feel something that can be complimented with other tools and dialed to a preference is even an issue.
And here I was hoping you had replied to tell me how hard this weld is to do and get even close to nice looking.

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against having unequal axle shift
limits how much side to side shift
this is what doesn't get enough attention. this is a real issue i feel some don't even consider and it's lack of mention is evidence of that.
whole sys like you said b4 ....making that sys on that end as efficient as you can in it's motions.
 
And here I was hoping you had replied to tell me how hard this weld is to do and get even close to nice looking.

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penetration is the criteria, cosmetics is not critical............beside looks way better than some i see. overhead takes commitment if your even a little hesitant and don't get that bite on the arc start it'll dump on ya.

i was lookin to see if you'd cut more notch for that contact you mentioned didn't notice the weld .it's lack of goobers didn't draw my attention.
 
this is what doesn't get enough attention. this is a real issue i feel some don't even consider and it's lack of mention is evidence of that.
whole sys like you said b4 ....making that sys on that end as efficient as you can in it's motions.
There are several things that need to be brought out and discussed with a lot more attention that we currently see.
Arm angle for short arms is one very big one. For us and the undercuts we have to deal with, you don't want more droop than about what a nicely biased 11-12" shock up front will get you. The arm angle gets too steep under articulation and you run a high risk of the tire moving down lower and trying to yank the shock out of the mounts. We limit to that much droop to stop how often that can be a big problem.

That is also one advantage of a longer arm, you can get some more droop under articulation and keep things out of trouble.

I don't see nearly enough talk about rear driveshaft bind under droop, how to check it, how to work with it, and how to keep stuff out of trouble, especially with the Rubi TJ. That rear shaft is a pain in the ass to deal with. I'm sad that has to be the limiting factor on a lot of stuff or spend a crap load of money on rear driveshafts.
 
penetration is the criteria, cosmetics is not critical............beside looks way better than some i see. overhead takes commitment if your even a little hesitant and don't get that bite on the arc start it'll dump on ya.

i was lookin to see if you'd cut more notch for that contact you mentioned didn't notice the weld .it's lack of goobers didn't draw my attention.
The notch can't be much deeper or I have to widen the reinforcement on the inside. If I widen it more, it goes more into the tub on the inside and after a bit, that gets to be a pain in the ass to deal with using that space for cargo.

The penetration on that weld is great. It is a perfect corner to corner fit up with no gaps.
 
i'm kind of a build a better mouse trap guy. and often daydream of a way to fix that panhards influence front and rear. or even eliminating 2 links on each end.

i fixed my rear driveshaft issue it's now 32" long and i should get full use of all my droop but i do need to check it.............that'll need a lift to accomplish.
that drive shaft length might allow me the option of playing with a TC doubler at some point also was my thought.
 
There are several things that need to be brought out and discussed with a lot more attention that we currently see.
Arm angle for short arms is one very big one. For us and the undercuts we have to deal with, you don't want more droop than about what a nicely biased 11-12" shock up front will get you. The arm angle gets too steep under articulation and you run a high risk of the tire moving down lower and trying to yank the shock out of the mounts. We limit to that much droop to stop how often that can be a big problem.

That is also one advantage of a longer arm, you can get some more droop under articulation and keep things out of trouble.

I don't see nearly enough talk about rear driveshaft bind under droop, how to check it, how to work with it, and how to keep stuff out of trouble, especially with the Rubi TJ. That rear shaft is a pain in the ass to deal with. I'm sad that has to be the limiting factor on a lot of stuff or spend a crap load of money on rear driveshafts.
Aside from the short arm jacking that occurs, what other aspects does a front midarm fix? Is the jacking the primary reason for front midarms?
 
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penetration is the criteria, cosmetics is not critical............beside looks way better than some i see. overhead takes commitment if your even a little hesitant and don't get that bite on the arc start it'll dump on ya.

i was lookin to see if you'd cut more notch for that contact you mentioned didn't notice the weld .it's lack of goobers didn't draw my attention.
I really need to get a voltage monitor or some kind of stable power supply for the welder. Our voltage delivered varies throughout the day by a bunch. I'm constantly having to change the settings on the welder. It will be on what is on the hot side for horizontal 1/8" and start burning hot enough for cool 1/4" or turn cold for 1/8. I know to watch for it but by the time I catch it, I'm committed to the weld and it is hard to stop.

I know to follow the good basics and do so with a high level of not violating them. Lead is laid out with no tight turns or kinks. I keep the negative away so the magnetic field doesn't cause the electrode to drag on the liner. Gun angle is good with no kink at the lead. Liner is inspected often, I run wipers on the electrode before it gets into the liner and feed roller. Still, I get this crap from time to time.
It doesn't look too bad here-
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Here you can really see how much of a shit weld it is. WTF? Did you forget how to do this all of a sudden? The rest of the welds on that were all done at the same time with the same settings by the same guy who just did them and now, oh hey, never seen a welder before?

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nope I was just wondering if there were any other hidden ones
If you do it and mimic a parallel 4 link, then the caster change throughout the range of motion is consistent. Not as noticeable on typical steering but when you get into the higher performance stuff with a lot of crap stacked on the right side with close tolerances, it slows down the propensity for shit to crash into other shit.
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