I picked up a set of cheap oem canyon wheels to experiment on. So far so good. I used a 2 3/4 hole saw to open up the centers. The hole saw fits perfectly inside the already machined hub centric ring. The results were now I can run hubs with the stock wheels and with the 3/4 inch wider than stock hub I shouldn’t need a spacer with 35s or atleast a minimal spacer. I relocated the rear spring perches which gives me almost 2 inches more room between the tire and frame. I’m hoping for a more stock look with the least amount of poke. I’ll update as I go. I couldn’t find any info on anyone else doing this so I guess I’m the Guinea pig.
OEM canyon wheel with hub conversion
- Thread starter Wtrask
- Start date
I'll be following this. Mine aren't canyons but they're only 0.25" less backspacing and I'd love to run them without spacers if I got hubs. But I'm currently running 1.25" and I still have to have washers on my steering stops, so my expectation is that I'll have to run extended lugs and a thin spacer.
They are 6" backspacing. I'll be running 2" adapters in the rear and 1" in the front to accommodate the Warn small hub kit. That will get me slightly less than 4" of BS up front.
I didn’t realize the hub kit was that much wider. With my high line front fenders it’s hard to notice.
Vtx531
TJ Addict
Interesting. I didn’t measure mine. I ordered a set of 1/4 inch spacers just in case.
I had a thread about this about a week ago, and was advised by Blaine that the lugs with the kit aren't long enough to take another 1/4" out and that longer lugs are required. He advised specifically to have the holes machined to accept 1/2-20 threaded lugs.
I’m anticipating this. I’m hoping I won’t need them at all. If I gained an inch per side instead of 3/4 I’ll be fine.
I'll get some measurements today at some point. How much additional offset you get depends on the year of the rig and whether you have the Yukon or Warn version.
The early unit bearing sticks out past the later version by .220" or so. The Warn flange is thinner than the Yukon but the hub flange is the same thickness for both.
My jeep is a 2000 and I installed the Yukon kit with the warn hubs. If I remember, the kit said 1.5 inches total width change. I never did measure before and after tho.
I'd always assumed on some level that the parts ended up stacking to the same wms, but I never put together that the late rotor hat thickness would have had to be ridiculous to make that happen.
I don't really want to lose any width because I'm already rubbing the swayloc just a bit, so I'll have to get sandwich spacers to take up the difference between the what the hub kit adds and my 1.25" spacers.
It all has to do with the fact that the rotor mounts behind the hub flange. Rather than build a new rotor, they opted to use the early TJ rotor in full cast. They have also made changes which I'll show below but essentially, everything is wider from the face of the rotor out so you can measure the bearing hub flange and locking hub flange to get how much additional offset you will be adding with some accounting for early or late unit bearings and that will be odd.
This is the current version of the hub. It has never been thinner even when Warn did it. That means it will add 2" overall to the track width over stock with late unit bearings. I'll show why it comes up to that below.
This is one of their earlier hubs I bought to send along with rotors to the machine shop to have the center bores opened up. That would put you somewhere around 2.25" of additional width which again, I'll show why below.
This is the Yukon rotor on the right and an early model 97-99 Centric on the left showing what Yukon is currently using.
This is where it gets funky. This is the early and late TJ rotor comparison. The problem is the full cast rotor is not correct. The original rotor had a thin stamped steel rotor hat. It is also why they changed the unit bearing. The track width difference should be equal to the difference in height of the two unit bearings and it isn't due to the hat thickness difference. The rotors are .150 difference, the unit bearings are .220 different.
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I finally got a tire mounted and check more fitment. Looks like I may need to run a couple washers behind the rear wheels because the brake caliper just barely touches not sure yet I may just grind the caliper more.
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