I'm looking to do an auto swap, between our two rigs we could pretty evenly swap with a little external help from Wrangler fix, etc.
Near Denver is ideal. Let's talk!
Near Denver is ideal. Let's talk!
WTB: Trade my NSG370 for your 42RLE (05-06 only)
- Thread starter rasband
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Both candidates need to pull the center stack bezel to check and see if the connector is there for the OD off switch. That really speeds up the swap if you don't have to pull the dash to swap harnesses.
Also, Rubi is better swapped with a Rubi and Sport with Sport or you'll need a Rubi dash harness for the Rubi doing the trade with a Sport.
OP
Thank you! Thought I had a line on one today but the build sheet was wrong.
Is it just Rubicon to non Rubicon you'd need to deal with pulling the dash? I'm early in figuring it all out and have only read a few of your posts (with only some of it sticking mentally).
I sent a guy your contact info. It depends. If you have the OD off switch connector in both, then Rubi to non Rubi matters. If you don't have the OD connector, then you will have to swap harnesses and then both need to be Sport or Rubi. I think his is a Rubi.
OP
Thank you, we'll chat this week to make sure it's seamless and give you a call to confirm a few things.
Pull the center stack bezel first.Thank you, we'll chat this week to make sure it's seamless and give you a call to confirm a few things.
OP
If you want a read, I just finished this swap last month. This post is in regards to OD. If yours is a Rubicon you SHOULD have the plug, but this is what I had to go through to mate it to the PCM from the cab. I found the unused plug attached to the blank on the switch panel.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/2005-rubicon-a-rubi-brother.55498/post-1079033
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It is an unused connector that plugs into the OD Off switch. I'll try to get a pic of the back of the switch so you have a rough idea what it looks like. The other way to tell would be an unused connector folded back on the harness right by the locker switch.
We've run into both, Rubi with and without the connector. In fact not having the connector caused us to stop a swap between two vehicles.
I stand corrected. I fully expected to have to wire the switch in, but glad I didn't have to. The wiring terminated at the white plug by the firewall, so I had to create a separate plug to go from the OD wires to the PCM.
OP
Looks like I have a good bit of reading to do. Is the OD switch in the gear lever or on the dash near the fog/locker/rear wiper switch? I'll pull it all apart in the next day or two.
It sits right next to the locker switch, potentially plugged into the blank in your case.
And here it is plugged into the OD switch.
Here it is in place with the other switches.
OP
I didn't pay specific attention last time I was in there, but I'm hopeful. Thank you so much for sharing these!
OP
OP
The SKIM will be a problem if you want to keep the keys VIN correct. I'll have to chat with Mike and see what the best way to go about that is. It should be as easy as moving the PCM and SKIM modules over and then programming a new set of keys for each so they stay VIN specific to the lock cylinders.
Temporarily, you could use the wrong keys and lock cylinders until you get some cut and programmed and then swap cylinders back or rekey the cylinder to the VIN.
The problem is the SKIM module has to go with the PCM. It can't be reprogrammed.
You should be okay on the rest. I would get a new pilot bearing, new throw-out bearing and swap those over. You will need the bushing for the snout on the converter. I have that part number and if you can't find one, I have an extra.
Unless you have two good crews working on both rigs, you won't do this in a day. Someone good with electrical will need to be in charge of moving the harnesses over between the two rigs and taking pics before they start to aid in getting stuff back where it goes.
If you are going to swap radiators, you need clean buckets to save the coolant in or new coolant. Run the trans cooler lines before you put the trans in. Otherwise you have to pull the exhaust down to route the lines behind the down pipes.
We start with the interior before we lift them. Pull the shifters, front half of the console, floor plate, etc. and get that done before. That way when you lift it, you don't have to climb back in. Pull the fan shroud loose so you can lower the trans down far enough to reach the bellhousing bolts at the top easier.
If it is time sensitive and you need to get him back on road, then pull everything and concentrate on getting his back together. Sucky way to do it which will leave you a pile of parts to install in yours, but it is a way to do it.
I was reading @Jamison C 's build thread (where he's shared a lot of good information) the other day trying to understand what's necessary for a swap like this - and I learned it is really a ton of work doing the manual to auto conversion. There is a lot of itty bitty details involved and it is a great level of care one needs to take to make sure everything is buttoned up correctly. I know you have done a few of these in the past, and my appreciation for your skill and knowledge (and sharing it on the forum for everyone) only keeps growing.
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OP
I've learned so much in the last few days from him, I'm very thankful for it all - especially as he cleared up some of my misunderstandings. As things progress and we lock in on doing the swap I'll update (or do a full thread on it). Looking to be a two 06 LJRs side by side, which is pretty ideal sounding.
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