Cost and quality of control arms

Interesting point re JJs and mud. What's your thinking on the best option for those who frequent the brown sticky stuff? We are a bit short on deserts in the UK as well 🤣
Depends on the mud, clay type that sucks the lube out of the binder, good luck. Any greased joint is going to suffer.
 
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Interesting point re JJs and mud. What's your thinking on the best option for those who frequent the brown sticky stuff? We are a bit short on deserts in the UK as well 🤣
Not sure yet. Still working on figuring that out. If your not running a ton of lift (like 2" or less") and don't need adjustable, I'd stick with the stock arms.

I'm contemplating a condom for my joints...
 
I’m actually not. Im not even looking for recommendations. Im looking for the thought/decision process.

evryone says “the joints”…okay..great, what is bad about a joint from Core 4x4. And to make it a fair comparison, how does that compare to Rough Country or the similarly priced competitors, or even stock?

If driving conditons are required to answer, then assume daily driver with occasional off road. No rock crawling, but some back-country trails and needs.
Did you read my post? I went through the joints...told you why rough country sucks...and anything else designed like RC sucks for the same reasons.

Get stock ones if you don't need adjustable. They flex...others don't. If you need adjustable, go ahead and buy the cheapest shit you can. The bushings are all the same. They will all rip your control arm mounts to hell, if you flex them repeatedly. That is why usage matters. No one wants to tell you to go buy a 1600 dollar set of control arms if you're not going to use that amount of flex. If you drive a pavement princess (nothing wrong with that, BTW) then the cheapest ones that adjust...or stock if adjustable isn't needed wil work for your application.

If you're going to build a jeep that will max out articulation, you'd best be looking at a decent flex joint...and the only one that really stands the test of time is the johnny joint. Others may work for a little while...but they will develop slop.
 
But why????? Aside from the fact that some dude on a forum said so?
Some dude who happens to have designed a large number of TJ specific parts. Before you dismiss Blaine, understand that you may not fully understand who Blaine is or all he’s designed and engineered. If there’s one person you’d be wise to listen to it would be him. I say that with all due respect. I just don’t want you to make the mistake so many others in your shoes have made.
 
But why????? Aside from the fact that some dude on a forum said so?
Because a cheap aftermarket arm has virtually zero flex and won't allow for misalignment in rough terrain. That lack of flex frequently results in breaking the control arm mounts from the frame, but it can also break the axle tube.

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The OEM arms are designed to allow for flex to compensate for the misalignment. The cheap aftermarket arms don't; the only advantage they have over the stock arms is the length and angle are designed to compensate for caster and wheelbase changes due to taller springs. The advantage isn't worth the tradeoff in a small lift situation.

Stay stock, or go with a quality Johnny Joint that allows for misalignment and also allows for caster and wheelbase adjustment. As for which JJ arm? Just pick your preference or whichever one best fits your needs (min/max length, etc.); they're all priced similarly.
 
Some dude who happens to have designed a large number of TJ specific parts. Before you dismiss Blaine, understand that you may not fully understand who Blaine is or all he’s designed and engineered. If there’s one person you’d be wise to listen to it would be him. I say that with all due respect. I just don’t want you to make the mistake so many others in your shoes have made.
Clearly there’s no bias.
 
You may spend a lot of time figuring out which product you want, and pick an excellent one, and install it. And only later discover that the guy you were arguing with engineered it, even though his name isn't on it.
I’m not arguing with Blaine at all. In fact, his posts are part of the the group that I’ve “liked”. But I do think responsible business owners should disclose their identity in forums such as this. If not, I do think there is a conflict of interest that reflects poorly on the brand that they are not disclosing.
 
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Im not arguing with Blaine at all. In fact, his posts part of the the group that Ive “liked”. But I do think a responsible business owners should disclose their identity in forums such as this. If not, I do think there is a conflict of interest that reflects poorly on the brand that they are not disclosing.
from a guy thats said some pretty dumb shit .....................thats some dumb shit.
 
@imactj2004 if you are looking for budget adjustable control arms the Rancho arms aren't bad. I've run the lowers on the front and back disconnected (in the front at least) and the uppers in the rear. They are heavy duty and flex fine. They are a variation on a popular rubber flex joint used by several companies, not great but work especially if you are just doing uppers on a budget. I run them in the rear now and JJ arms up front. It's fine regardless of what some people will tell you that probably haven't run them.
 
I’m not arguing with Blaine at all. In fact, his posts are part of the the group that I’ve “liked”. But I do think responsible business owners should disclose their identity in forums such as this. If not, I do think there is a conflict of interest that reflects poorly on the brand that they are not disclosing.
I own Blackmagicbrakes.com. I do not sell suspension bits other than some ancillary shit of no importance. I also do not derive any income, royalties, or licensing fees from anyone who sells suspension related parts. I don't recommend any of my products, I merely keep the clueless more informed as to how they work. The only parts I ever recommend with rare exception are OEM Mopar whenever possible for cooling systems, sensors, fuel pumps, and clutch related bits whenever funds and availability allows. Transparent enough for you?

That said, I've had more than a hand in the design of stuff that would take too long for me to list and even remember.
 
I have never heard of anyone needing to replace JJ on any trail anywhere.
Like most things, you can have 500,000 or more of them in very successful use and that small batch of less than 50 that got out with incorrectly machined snap ring grooves now becomes the standard by which the rest are judged. Doesn't matter that John covered every single one that was brought to his attention.

That and we hear about a few that are fresh rebuilds that don't get the snap ring seated correctly and blame the joint when it pops out.
 
Like most things, you can have 500,000 or more of them in very successful use and that small batch of less than 50 that got out with incorrectly machined snap ring grooves now becomes the standard by which the rest are judged. Doesn't matter that John covered every single one that was brought to his attention.

That and we hear about a few that are fresh rebuilds that don't get the snap ring seated correctly and blame the joint when it pops out.
I've had that happen...and thought to myself, "self...don't be a dummy again. Make sure you get that ring fully seated" Never thought to blame the product...
 
I've had that happen...and thought to myself, "self...don't be a dummy again. Make sure you get that ring fully seated" Never thought to blame the product...
Same, it happened once after a trail. I had just greased them a week or two before, so I'd have to be a moron to think it was anyone but me.

Fortunately that's a lesson you just have to learn once (hopefully).
 
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I've had that happen...and thought to myself, "self...don't be a dummy again. Make sure you get that ring fully seated" Never thought to blame the product...
Currie had a local machinist do a batch of forgings to get them out of a bind. Oh hey, I tapered the outer edge to make it easier to get the snap rings in. No you idiot, that makes them pop out, stop it.
 
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