I just finished the Saavy body lift and crown auto body bushings on my LJ about 1 hour ago. Nice to be able to torque the mounts properly. Motor mount lift I would use the 1” aluminum spacer with the factory mounts. I did raise the steering shaft support bearing bracket when I did mine. The steering shaft was slightly rubbing the fire wall.
Thank you for the info - this is the first I have heard about needing to raise the steering shaft, how did you do that? also did you need to put a lowering braket on the transfer case shifter?
Some people say it’s not needed but mine was rubbing slightly coming out of the fire wall. They sell a raised bracket but I took mine off and cut it horizontally then added a piece of 1” flat bar in between. The transfer case most people go to cable shifter, I have a rubicrawler that changed the shifters to cable.
They very likely have within a few CC of the same amount. The orientation on the other hand is highly in favor of the stock trans mount since it is designed that way. I needed something with isolation, that was economical, easy to source, not proprietary, and would do a reasonable job of taking care of vibes. The upper control arm bushings fit that bill perfectly.I did this and didn't notice any significant change. Others can probably speak to this one, but the biggest introduction of idle vibrations for me was the Savvy UA. The stock trans mount had more isolating rubber than the UA, at least that's my theory.
I would be really surprised if Mopar did not make a decent improvement over brown dogs. I've had the original Mopar, all mounts replaced with Anchor, Brown dog motor with anchor trans, and now MORE motor with Mopar trans. All Mopar was for sure the best. Not saying you should ditch what you have and spend a bunch on new ones but I would expect a decent improvement if you swapped. Brown dogs were annoyingly buzzy to me even with a manual transmission. MORE are nice if you want strong aftermarket mounts, but still not as soft as Mopar, which is no surprise.
That's interesting. Did you use Mopar or something aftermarket like Anchor?I did this and didn't notice any significant change. Others can probably speak to this one, but the biggest introduction of idle vibrations for me was the Savvy UA. The stock trans mount had more isolating rubber than the UA, at least that's my theory.
They have stock Mopar Motor Mounts on their rig. They don't have the Savvy MUA though. Their rig is only slightly modified. Mine is kinda crazy modified and there's no stoppping now!
Have you tried neutralizing the drivetrain and exhaust? When installing motor mount and jacking up the engine things can get in a bind and cause vibration and harshness. I have found that loosening the motor mount through bolts and the trans mount, then loosen the exhaust at the manifold and muffler connection. Start it up put in drive to reverse then back to neutral let the drivetrain settle then shut off and tighten everything up. This helps get any bind out of the mounts and exhaust and let’s the bushing do their job. If bushings are preloaded in one direction this can transmit vibration to the chassis.
The replacements I used were OMIX. I had used Anchor previously, but didn't like the way the rubber was molded. The OMIX mounts looked similar, but seemed to be a slightly better quality.
No Sir, Helping TJ Turley out. I'll let her tell you what she's building. She is spending more money than your entire Jeep's worth!
oh haha must be niceNo Sir, Helping TJ Turley out. I'll let her tell you what she's building. She is spending more money than your entire Jeep's worth!
I cut mine and welded a 1” piece in, my steering shaft was tubing coming out of the fire wall causing a slight clunk while turning.Just did a 1” BL & 1” Mm lift. Metalcloak 3.5” short arm as well.
I found my steering is much tighter (a good thing) but am wondering if installing steering shaft bracket is necessary. Body Lift really helped my steering
