Married to Long Arms, Upgrade Options?

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mikey3288

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Joined
Oct 14, 2021
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Location
Englewood, CO
Hey everyone,

PO had put an RE long arm kit on the TJ and predictably all of the bushings and joints are shot and it rides quite terribly. After doing a lot of research it seems like long arms aren't really the way to go and Currie/Savvy short and mid arm kits are where it's at. Unfortunately PO had chopped the existing mounts to install the RE kit. I've heard of some approved weld on brackets but that route seems extremely expensive to chop off all the long arm brackets and then weld short/mid arm brackets on (I'm not a welder).

I feel like this is an unpopular question but what are the upgrade options at this point? I've researched replacing the bushings + Currie joints but it seems like the RE design just blows and I'll be replacing the bushings again soon.

I found a Metalcloak direct bolt in upgrade kit (not sure if I can post links) but product ID 7149. The downside is that it doesn't come with the rear uppers (ID 7093). The rear uppers use a significantly larger bushing so the existing brackets on the axle would need to be cut out and MC brackets welded in anyway 🙄

All of the MC kit would come to just under $2k. I can chop the existing brackets off but I'd have to get someone to weld the new MC brackets on. Is this my best "upgrade" option where I wouldn't have to replace bushings that frequently and restore ride quality? Any help is appreciated!

PXL_20220504_134340256.jpg
PXL_20220504_134334687.jpg
 
If you are not interested in spending $2K or getting involved in a welding project, then it would seem your solution would be to replace the worn bushings and get on with life. Even though RE is a brand people love to hate, your jeep isn't going to explode if it has RE control arms with fresh bushings.
 
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HornedToad said:
The terrible ride probably comes from your shocks. You can probably find some kind of replacement bushings to put in your control arms that would help tighten up the feel.
Click to expand...
Absolutely try some new shocks. As mentioned, replace the bushings in what you have to freshen up the movement.

Biggest thing might be to let some air out of those bricks your riding on, they don’t have much bulge in the sidewall.
 
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Awesome, thanks for all the help! I was definitely going to get some new shocks after addressing the long arms, probably the Rancho's as they come highly highly rated around here. I'll measure drop to get the right height of shocks.

I'd prefer not to spend $2k+ on new long arms as that can definitely go far on mods elsewhere haha.

One last question how would I go about finding replacement bushings? I tried contacting RE for a list but have yet to hear back, I found RE replacement bushings on a few sites like 4wp but they don't have the d and l dimensions, just inner diameter so I can't tell for sure if they'll fit. MC makes duroflex bushings they sell individually but they're not direct replacement sizes. I'll try to contact Barnes next.
 
mikey3288 said:
Awesome, thanks for all the help! I was definitely going to get some new shocks after addressing the long arms, probably the Rancho's as they come highly highly rated around here. I'll measure drop to get the right height of shocks.

I'd prefer not to spend $2k+ on new long arms as that can definitely go far on mods elsewhere haha.

One last question how would I go about finding replacement bushings? I tried contacting RE for a list but have yet to hear back, I found RE replacement bushings on a few sites like 4wp but they don't have the d and l dimensions, just inner diameter so I can't tell for sure if they'll fit. MC makes duroflex bushings they sell individually but they're not direct replacement sizes. I'll try to contact Barnes next.
Click to expand...
We need to figure out what generation of arms you have. Can you post up pics of each of the ends and I can help you identify what you have. There have been several different bushings used as well as their superflex joint.
 
I’m in a similar position as you, and I can tell you, there is no improvement that isn’t going to be expensive, and I wouldn’t sink too much money into your current setup.
 
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TRE3TOP said:
I’m in a similar position as you, and I can tell you, there is no improvement that isn’t going to be expensive, and I wouldn’t sink too much money into your current setup.
Click to expand...

Ooph.. yeah that's the conclusion I'm definitely coming to. There are definitely things I wish I knew before I bought my first TJ but haha here we are!

Blackjack said:
We need to figure out what generation of arms you have. Can you post up pics of each of the ends and I can help you identify what you have. There have been several different bushings used as well as their superflex joint.
Click to expand...
This would be awesome and super appreciated. I tried to take a few just now but it's rainy and a bit dark so not sure how well they turned out. The kit is on a '98 and from what I can tell it's not a tri-link.

This is the front arm connection point to the center
PXL_20220504_182758942.jpg


This is the Y connection in the front
PXL_20220504_182819456.jpg


This is where the top of the Y connects to
PXL_20220504_182812089.jpg


And this is the bottom of the Y
PXL_20220504_182839155.jpg


Moving to rear, this is the rear upper and lower attachment to the center
PXL_20220504_182931773.jpg


And this is where the rears connect
PXL_20220504_182946792.jpg


I tried to get an overall shot of the four rear arms
PXL_20220504_183000678.jpg
 
If I were you, which I kind of am, I would start with new shocks. Then I would start saving for the savvy mid arm upgrade. I would prob go for new springs when you install the new links, your newer shocks would probably be ok if you order correctly. That’ll will give you the upgrade you’re looking for, but it’s not going to be cheap. The mid arm link set is 3k after shipping, and I’d expect another $1500 to have it professionally installed and welded up. Anything else will pretty much either be a lateral move or a backpedal.
 
Mr. Bills said:
If you are not interested in spending $2K or getting involved in a welding project, then it would seem your solution would be to replace the worn bushings and get on with life. Even though RE is a brand people love to hate, your jeep isn't going to explode if it has RE control arms with fresh bushings.
Click to expand...
That's not even close to fair.
 
Blackjack said:
We need to figure out what generation of arms you have. Can you post up pics of each of the ends and I can help you identify what you have. There have been several different bushings used as well as their superflex joint.
Click to expand...
Not sure how much you value your hair but the amount of head scratching that needs to be done to figure out this mess is most assuredly going to lessen the supply up there.
 
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mrblaine said:
Not sure how much you value your hair but the amount of head scratching that needs to be done to figure out this mess is most assuredly going to lessen the supply up there.
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Well during the early to mid 2000s two things were very popular up here. Miller Genuine Draft and RE TJ Long Arms. The first I have no explanation for and the second I have no real solution to the geometry issues it has. But I do help keep enough of these functional that I can at least offer to help the OP keep his working.
 
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mikey3288 said:
Ooph.. yeah that's the conclusion I'm definitely coming to. There are definitely things I wish I knew before I bought my first TJ but haha here we are!


This would be awesome and super appreciated. I tried to take a few just now but it's rainy and a bit dark so not sure how well they turned out. The kit is on a '98 and from what I can tell it's not a tri-link.

This is the front arm connection point to the center
View attachment 328067

This is the Y connection in the front
View attachment 328068

This is where the top of the Y connects to
View attachment 328069

And this is the bottom of the Y
View attachment 328071

Moving to rear, this is the rear upper and lower attachment to the center
View attachment 328072

And this is where the rears connect
View attachment 328073

I tried to get an overall shot of the four rear arms
View attachment 328074
Click to expand...
Ok so the lower of the front arms, and the rear arms are all later gen RE. I know i probably have the races to fit the superflex joints, but I do not have any of the bushings that fit the crimped ends that go to the axles. Your front uppers are not RE and while from the pic they look like Rockjock I am not willing to commit to that from one photo. So some more detailed pics of each end would be helpful.

Also the pinion ujoint on the rear driveshaft is spinning in the yoke so you might want to address that.
 
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I had an RE Longarm kit in my 2001 TJ. I replaced the joints and bushings numerous times. I found Clayton Offroad offered RE replacement arms.
They utilized Johnny Joints and were the best option at the time.
I still run a Clayton Long arm in my LJ, but its because I had all the components left over from the part out of my 01.
 
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Blackjack said:
Ok so the lower of the front arms, and the rear arms are all later gen RE. I know i probably have the races to fit the superflex joints, but I do not have any of the bushings that fit the crimped ends that go to the axles. Your front uppers are not RE and while from the pic they look like Rockjock I am not willing to commit to that from one photo. So some more detailed pics of each end would be helpful.

Also the pinion ujoint on the rear driveshaft is spinning in the yoke so you might want to address that.
Click to expand...
And the upper mount on the diff has at least one loose bolt holding it down. I've not seen a RJ bushing mount with that ring around it at the front upper so I have no idea what it actually is.

Looking again, that might be the JJ conversion and we are seeing the non snap ring side.

I would like to see that thing take off from a stop in 4 hi and then slam on the brakes. The amount of caster change has to be considerable given that they converted the joint at the arm to a JJ or JJ style.
 
Blackjack said:
Ok so the lower of the front arms, and the rear arms are all later gen RE. I know i probably have the races to fit the superflex joints, but I do not have any of the bushings that fit the crimped ends that go to the axles. Your front uppers are not RE and while from the pic they look like Rockjock I am not willing to commit to that from one photo. So some more detailed pics of each end would be helpful.

Also the pinion ujoint on the rear driveshaft is spinning in the yoke so you might want to address that.
Click to expand...

Alright tried to take a few more photos, hopefully these help!

Passenger side front upper first:
PXL_20220504_210136443.jpg

PXL_20220504_210156819.jpg

PXL_20220504_210210698.jpg

PXL_20220504_210226012.jpg

PXL_20220504_210238461.jpg



Alright and now driver's side:
PXL_20220504_210259468.jpg

PXL_20220504_210315005.jpg

PXL_20220504_210332460.jpg

PXL_20220504_210340236.jpg

PXL_20220504_210245793.jpg


Also you mentioned the pinion u joint on the rear driveshaft is spinning in the yoke. Eagle eyes man, I'm a newbie, I tried to take a closer up photo. Do you mind identifying which u joint that is, and how I'd go about fixing that? Is that replacing the u joint?
PXL_20220504_210405894.jpg



mrblaine said:
And the upper mount on the diff has at least one loose bolt holding it down. I've not seen a RJ bushing mount with that ring around it at the front upper so I have no idea what it actually is.

Looking again, that might be the JJ conversion and we are seeing the non snap ring side.

I would like to see that thing take off from a stop in 4 hi and then slam on the brakes. The amount of caster change has to be considerable given that they converted the joint at the arm to a JJ or JJ style.
Click to expand...

I tried looking around but came up empty handed, what is a JJ conversion?
 
mrblaine said:
And the upper mount on the diff has at least one loose bolt holding it down. I've not seen a RJ bushing mount with that ring around it at the front upper so I have no idea what it actually is.

Looking again, that might be the JJ conversion and we are seeing the non snap ring side.

I would like to see that thing take off from a stop in 4 hi and then slam on the brakes. The amount of caster change has to be considerable given that they converted the joint at the arm to a JJ or JJ style.
Click to expand...
If the joints are solid working order it should be fine other than what is is doing now and that is tearing up the only soft bushing on the passenger side upper. RE knew this was an issue and used clevites on each end of the upper links to help minimize the problems the Warn XCL and Ford Bronco/F150s have.
 
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