32RH transmission pan bunghole
- Thread starter Paulv
- Start date
Yank it and have a bung welded on where it will be in the best out of the way spot. Lots of folks disagree with the pan mount in favor of the line out position. Whats coming from the converter is typically pretty toasty compared to the pans fluid. Just a thought to consider.
The temperature of the ATF inside the pan is what you want to know the temperature of, that's where the transmission picks up its ATF from.
Braze the temperature bung near the corner of the pan. You'll see where to put it when you get the pan off. I never found a suitable pan with the bung hole already there.
Braze the temperature bung near the corner of the pan. You'll see where to put it when you get the pan off. I never found a suitable pan with the bung hole already there.
That's because lots of folks are confused as to what you need to know. The line out reading is the hottest point in the fluid since it is exiting the converter after being abused by the vanes. It is already cooling down on its way to the cooler in the radiator.
Putting the sensor in the line out is the equivalent of mounting your engine temp sensor in the combustion chamber and trying to extrapolate how hot the engine is running by measuring the temp of the flame front when the air/fuel mixture burns. You don't need to know that shit, you need to know what temp the engine is operating at and for the same reason, the trans temp sender belongs in the pan so you know what temp the trans is operating at. Everything else is bullshit.
This !!!!
Blaine has his subtle way of explaining thermodynamic truths to the unwashed masses. I damn near shot my coffee out of my nose reading this.
The pan is the logical place to monitor operating temp. of auto. transmission.
Not that I found. I didn‘t find a pan with a bung and drain plug installed. The links show the pan and bung I used. the pan is deeper than stock shown in pictures. I didn’t have the tool or skill to weld the bung so I took it to someone that did. I used a Lube Locker gasket and have no leaks. If I remember correctly it took 8 quarters of ATF+4 to fill after pan and filter change.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUX1FYE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000630DOE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B81T5Q0/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Is the bunghole welded on the inside of the pan or outside? The piece I'm seeing that is circled doesnt look like the part I ordered from Amazon. Also, does the stock dipstick work with the larger pan? Thanks again.
I used the original dip stick with no issues. You want the fluid to be at the required original fill level with the benifits of additional fluid in the pan.
I'd get the Mopar rubber coated metal gasket vs any auto parts store or lube locker gasket. I thought I'd be fancy and use the lube locker the last time I did my 32rh filter. All was good until I filled it and had about a 2 quart puddle underneath 15 minutes later, wasn't even off the lift yet. After a two hour round trip to the dealer and pulling the pan again I noticed the ridges in the lube locker completely missed areas of the sealing surface where the transmission has slots milled out. Never even had a chance of sealing.
I really appreciate all the help!! Saved me a lot of research time and aggravation. Including the Amazon parts numbers is awesome. Obviously, so are the pictures. Cant thank you and the other guys enough!!!
Agreed, however in the days of diesel rams, heavy stock trailer towing and browsing ram forums you'll find guys arguing this one like "what oils the best" or where should the pyrometergo, before or after the turbo kinda pissing contests.
We don't weld them, far too likely to burn a pinhole that leaks. I've done at least 75 of them by silver brazing in a 1/8" NPT threaded bung with a shoulder from the outside with a 100% leak free success rate.