When I had my gears done they mentioned that I had axle bind at full droop likely due to my high clearance skids/tummy tuck and recommended limiting straps. Is this something that I need to address and does this create problems if I decide to outboard my shocks? I’ve wheeled my rig pretty hard without issue so far but want to make sure I’m proceeding with any future mods the right way
Axle bind at full droop
- Thread starter ToddK
- Start date
It was my understanding that the driveshaft does due to the angle created with my savvy belly skids
It seems we have somewhat similar builds, did you ever experience any bind in the driveshaft at full droop with your setup?
We are built similarly. For some comparison, on mine with the Savvy skid & mid arms and Currie LJ coils the rear drive shaft on the Rubicon will start binding a short ways after the coils become unseated. My 12" Fox shocks with about 5-6" of down from ride height keep the coils seated just barely at droop.
For some peace of mind, I wouldn't mind a center strap over the diff to limit drive shaft droop but not limit flex. But it isn't an immediate priority going on a year now.
On yours, get a good measurement of ride height. Disconnect the shocks and lower the axle until the drive shaft starts to pulse while hand spinning. Lift back up a bit. That is your available droop from ride height. That will be one of your boundaries to position your shocks within during the outboard process.
For some peace of mind, I wouldn't mind a center strap over the diff to limit drive shaft droop but not limit flex. But it isn't an immediate priority going on a year now.
On yours, get a good measurement of ride height. Disconnect the shocks and lower the axle until the drive shaft starts to pulse while hand spinning. Lift back up a bit. That is your available droop from ride height. That will be one of your boundaries to position your shocks within during the outboard process.
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Thank you for the detailed response! I’ve been super pleased with the performance of my setup but wasn’t sure how important it was to address this since it functioned so well on the trail without issue.
If either of us is going to use the mid arms to their potential, then it's a good thing to pay attention to.
Another approach, more flex from the CV https://www.highangledriveline.com/42cv.html , https://www.highangledriveline.com/1350cv.html
I just created a quick drawing, explaining something regarding limit straps for a guy so I decided it might be a good idea to use that drawing to add to any other conversations about limit straps. In case someone looking for answers stumbles upon this thread in the future.
Here's the deal with limit straps, they don't need to limit your wheel travel. If you put just a single limit strap over the differential, that will prevent the drive shaft from binding but still allow the axle to see-saw and give you full independent wheel articulation. The attached drawing illustrates this.
Here's the deal with limit straps, they don't need to limit your wheel travel. If you put just a single limit strap over the differential, that will prevent the drive shaft from binding but still allow the axle to see-saw and give you full independent wheel articulation. The attached drawing illustrates this.
Would this Setup be best case used on a triangulated system, or wold there not be enough side movement with a TB setup to be concerned with?
We may be (we are) venturing outside of my realm of expertise but I think this would apply to almost any suspension setup, even leaf springs. The main point as far as we are concerned is that a person is able to limit the down-travel of the pinion/differential, therefor prevent their drive shaft from binding, without putting short limit straps out over each side by the wheel, without significantly sacrificing suspension "flex" or articulation.
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I was just wondering if it would create any stress elsewhere or cause any issues with the additional side-load that the TB will induce. I guess properly set up, the axle will only shift a little side to side.