The LS Swap Begins

This might be the quickest I've ever seen an engine swap done, let alone an LS swap. Well done.
Thank you! I appreciate that…I feel like it’s taken forever…but it’s been 2 months to the day since I started on the second motor. I’m pretty impatient…soooo…it makes sense. 🤣
 
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Got any of it driving?
Working on that. Drove it to church group this morning and it blew the high pressure PS hose in the parking lot. Steel braided AN line… :-/

Anyone have a high pressure TJ line local? Like a dummy, I left the PS lines on the pump when I sold it…so had to come up with my own solution.
 
Very cool, and congrats on the startup. Open pipes?

Sure it sounds cool, but it's really the color that makes your rig....

:)
Yep, for now…I’m deciding what I’m going to do with the exhaust…sounds super cool right now, but way too loud for every day. The routing of the exhaust might not be as hard as I thought it was going to be either. I may get away with one here at the muffler shop for like maybe $200 if that.
 
Best feeling ever. Grin from ear to ear…even bigger when driving!!

I'll bet. Look forward to hearing how you worked thru all the compatibility issues with the stock dash. It sounds great.

And WOW if you can get an exhaust made for $200 that is crazy.
 
I'll bet. Look forward to hearing how you worked thru all the compatibility issues with the stock dash. It sounds great.

And WOW if you can get an exhaust made for $200 that is crazy.
So, I haven’t sorted out the tach yet, but, everything else works.

Coolant temp runs off of Jeep sensor with adapter in passenger side head port that is normally blocked off.

Battery voltage is read simply by the Jeep harness from the voltage it’s receiving from the PDC.

Oil pressure is read from the Jeep oil pressure sensor that’s in an adapter attached to where the oil cooler lines come out on the driver side of the block. Read through Jeep harness.

Fuel gauge is read through Jeep harness because I used the Jeep fuel pump/sender with a Novak regulator bypass and corvette inline filter/regulator.

Speedo is read from the existing VSS on the tail end of the 241 transfer case. Again…through the Jeep harness. I do have to split the VSS wire and send it in to the GM wire…just haven’t yet…since it’s a manual, the GM computer doesn’t care too much about the speedo signal, it just wants something to know that the vehicle is in motion.

I’m going to try to wire the tach up with the Dakota Digital, and if that doesn’t work, I’ll just return it and pick up the Novak emulator. I saved the crank pos sensor wire/connector for this reason.

I haven’t checked 4wd yet because I need a new transfer case linkage. But it should work as it did before.

Fun fact: when using the Jeep harness and Ecm to run the oem fuel pump, the Jeep will freak out prior to crank and kill power to the fuel pump. So, to correct this, I ran an ignition hot wire from my GM fuse block to the relay position that supplies 12v to the pump…works perfectly now!
 
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So, I haven’t sorted out the tach yet, but, everything else works.

Coolant temp runs off of Jeep sensor with adapter in passenger side head port that is normally blocked off.

Battery voltage is read simply by the Jeep harness from the voltage it’s receiving from the PDC.

Oil pressure is read from the Jeep oil pressure sensor that’s in an adapter attached to where the oil cooler lines come out on the driver side of the block. Read through Jeep harness.

Fuel gauge is read through Jeep harness because I used the Jeep fuel pump/sender with a Novak regulator bypass and corvette inline filter/regulator.

Speedo is read from the existing VSS on the tail end of the 241 transfer case. Again…through the Jeep harness. I do have to split the VSS wire and send it in to the GM wire…just haven’t yet…since it’s a manual, the GM computer doesn’t care too much about the speedo signal, it just wants something to know that the vehicle is in motion.

I’m going to try to wire the tach up with the Dakota Digital, and if that doesn’t work, I’ll just return it and pick up the Novak emulator. I saved the crank pos sensor wire/connector for this reason.

I haven’t checked 4wd yet because I need a new transfer case linkage. But it should work as it did before.

Fun fact: when using the Jeep harness and Ecm to run the oem fuel pump, the Jeep will freak out prior to crank and kill power to the fuel pump. So, to correct this, I ran an ignition hot wire from my GM fuse block to the relay position that supplies 12v to the pump…works perfectly now!

That's great. I'm sure it will help others looking at doing a swap also. I've had mixed success with Dakota Digital stuff. I tried to use their module for my speedo since the STaK's uses a Rubicon speed sensor but couldn't ever get it to work so ended up with one from Superlift.

That's crazy about the fuel pump but it always seems to be the simple solutions that work better. Now you get to enjoy the fruits of your labor.
 
...

Fun fact: when using the Jeep harness and Ecm to run the oem fuel pump, the Jeep will freak out prior to crank and kill power to the fuel pump. So, to correct this, I ran an ignition hot wire from my GM fuse block to the relay position that supplies 12v to the pump…works perfectly now!

Stock, when you turn on the ignition the fuel pump fires up for about 3 seconds and the stops if the engine is not running. When you start the engine the fuel pump then runs continuously. Is that maybe what was happening?
 
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Stock, when you turn on the ignition the fuel pump fires up for about 3 seconds and the stops if the engine is not running. When you start the engine the fuel pump then runs continuously. Is that maybe what was happening?
Yep, I thought about it after I posted that, and was like, that’s gotta be what happened…it has no idea that the engine is actually running.
 
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Definitely in the final stages here. Ended up getting an OEM high pressure power steering line, and it fit. Soooo...if you do this in the future, keep your PS hoses, because they work, and you only need to bend the low pressure line down a smidge to clear the steering. Also - if you end up with a hydroboost PS pump, just cap the top inlet, and you're golden.

Continuing with tuning. The motor is running pretty rich both from my nose telling me so, and my O2 sensors. Doing some tuning today to try to get that under control. I also learned some new stuff about "Throttle Follower" and "Throttle Cracker". I keep getting ahead of myself thinking I'm like this pro tuner, and I slightly adjusted my throttle plate - this added some new throttle hang that wasn't there before. After some YouTube learning, and poking around in my tune, I discovered that I actually reduced the throttle plate below the TPS level for the follower (I think), and it just likes to hang out and give me some extra air for like 3-4 seconds if the motor isn't entirely warmed up yet. Small issue, but was good to learn about that.

Trying to clean up the engine bay some more. I went ahead and ordered a new fuse box that's contained and has appropriate mounting hardware - instead of the Radio Shack DIY fuse block that I currently have over there where the ABS pump would be. Great for learning...not so much for the longer term installation. I don't like seeing wires exposed...so I'm hiding them as I work my way around the engine bay.

Air conditioning is rapidly becoming more important to me, because if you live in AZ, you know it's starting to warm up - sooooo, I mostly drive in the morning and early evening. There are a couple of options for brackets...I think I'm going to go with the Sanden 508. I need to find a place here in town that can make me up some custom AC lines - so I'll be calling around - unless someone has some suggestions? I've got some diagrams to sort out the wiring...kept the Jeep sensors...hoping I can keep the Jeep in control of it all...just gotta get to that task and I'll focus in on it and figure it out.

Muffler is being delivered today...probably head down to the muffler shop tomorrow and get that all buttoned up.

Haven't yet put on the front driveshaft as the temporary exhaust pipe I'm running is kinda in the way. Oh, and I've got to order one of those cable driven transfer case linkages because the OEM one was bad before, and now there is no hope for it. hahaha

I keep going back and forth on the shifter. Do I cut the tower and set it back with some welding? Do I buy a new tower with the lever that's shifted towards me? Do I just bend the mother-trucker? I'm going to try the bend right now...because it's free, and we'll see where that ends up.

Luckily father's day is right around the corner...and I'm going to request an entire Bed Rug set for the Jeep. Might as well freshen up that 18 year old carpet - and just clean under all that crap.

Um...outside of all of that...I still can't believe I am actually driving this thing around. Can't get the grin off my face TBH.

IMG_1022.jpg
 
Definitely in the final stages here. Ended up getting an OEM high pressure power steering line, and it fit. Soooo...if you do this in the future, keep your PS hoses, because they work, and you only need to bend the low pressure line down a smidge to clear the steering. Also - if you end up with a hydroboost PS pump, just cap the top inlet, and you're golden.

Continuing with tuning. The motor is running pretty rich both from my nose telling me so, and my O2 sensors. Doing some tuning today to try to get that under control. I also learned some new stuff about "Throttle Follower" and "Throttle Cracker". I keep getting ahead of myself thinking I'm like this pro tuner, and I slightly adjusted my throttle plate - this added some new throttle hang that wasn't there before. After some YouTube learning, and poking around in my tune, I discovered that I actually reduced the throttle plate below the TPS level for the follower (I think), and it just likes to hang out and give me some extra air for like 3-4 seconds if the motor isn't entirely warmed up yet. Small issue, but was good to learn about that.

Trying to clean up the engine bay some more. I went ahead and ordered a new fuse box that's contained and has appropriate mounting hardware - instead of the Radio Shack DIY fuse block that I currently have over there where the ABS pump would be. Great for learning...not so much for the longer term installation. I don't like seeing wires exposed...so I'm hiding them as I work my way around the engine bay.

Air conditioning is rapidly becoming more important to me, because if you live in AZ, you know it's starting to warm up - sooooo, I mostly drive in the morning and early evening. There are a couple of options for brackets...I think I'm going to go with the Sanden 508. I need to find a place here in town that can make me up some custom AC lines - so I'll be calling around - unless someone has some suggestions? I've got some diagrams to sort out the wiring...kept the Jeep sensors...hoping I can keep the Jeep in control of it all...just gotta get to that task and I'll focus in on it and figure it out.

Muffler is being delivered today...probably head down to the muffler shop tomorrow and get that all buttoned up.

Haven't yet put on the front driveshaft as the temporary exhaust pipe I'm running is kinda in the way. Oh, and I've got to order one of those cable driven transfer case linkages because the OEM one was bad before, and now there is no hope for it. hahaha

I keep going back and forth on the shifter. Do I cut the tower and set it back with some welding? Do I buy a new tower with the lever that's shifted towards me? Do I just bend the mother-trucker? I'm going to try the bend right now...because it's free, and we'll see where that ends up.

Luckily father's day is right around the corner...and I'm going to request an entire Bed Rug set for the Jeep. Might as well freshen up that 18 year old carpet - and just clean under all that crap.

Um...outside of all of that...I still can't believe I am actually driving this thing around. Can't get the grin off my face TBH.

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Wow it looks really compact in there, im sure the lack of AC helps clean up the engine compartment. Interested to see your exhaust routing. I bet it feels amazing actually having some acceleration when you press the pedal.
 
Your engine bay looks clean - mine's a jungle in comparison. Damned Hemi!

One thought: When I first put the Hemi in I slapped a filter directly to the intake in a similar fashion as you have done. My IAT's were so high that the ECU was pulling timing way back and leaving a hell of a lot of power on the table. I could not even tune it properly as a result. I solved it by doing a cowl intake.

Have you given any thought to an alternative intake setup?

Jeff
 
Your engine bay looks clean - mine's a jungle in comparison. Damned Hemi!

One thought: When I first put the Hemi in I slapped a filter directly to the intake in a similar fashion as you have done. My IAT's were so high that the ECU was pulling timing way back and leaving a hell of a lot of power on the table. I could not even tune it properly as a result. I solved it by doing a cowl intake.

Have you given any thought to an alternative intake setup?

Jeff
Yes - that is temporary until the rest of the intake parts arrive. It'll 90 at the throttle body toward the passenger side, 45 degrees up, then down over the radiator hose, then to the filter. I'm keeping the MAF on until I settle on a clean IAT sensor solution to replace the MAF. (you can see it sitting to the left of the radiator - it has the IAT sensor in it, but I'm running a speed density tune, so I don't need the MAF sensor anymore)
 
Yes - that is temporary until the rest of the intake parts arrive. It'll 90 at the throttle body toward the passenger side, 45 degrees up, then down over the radiator hose, then to the filter. I'm keeping the MAF on until I settle on a clean IAT sensor solution to replace the MAF. (you can see it sitting to the left of the radiator - it has the IAT sensor in it, but I'm running a speed density tune, so I don't need the MAF sensor anymore)
Cool (ah, literally...). Can't wait to see what you do. I'm enjoying your build.

Jeff
 
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Wow it looks really compact in there, im sure the lack of AC helps clean up the engine compartment. Interested to see your exhaust routing. I bet it feels amazing actually having some acceleration when you press the pedal.
I'm interested in how it's going to look as well. I've got some ideas...but I dunno, I'm going to leave it up to the pros at the muffler shop to tell me the best way to route it. I'm assuming it'll come in front of the oil pan hump, and then around...then straight back...
 
I'm interested in how it's going to look as well. I've got some ideas...but I dunno, I'm going to leave it up to the pros at the muffler shop to tell me the best way to route it. I'm assuming it'll come in front of the oil pan hump, and then around...then straight back...
Just be very skeptical when you drop it off, make sure you ask for their best or maybe this shop has a great reputation. You should try to define your front driveshaft position at full bump for them so they can build around that.
 
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Muffler shop was busy on Friday morning...which shocked me honestly, so it's probably not making it down there until tomorrow at the earliest. I have taken it upon myself to figure out tuning of this thing...and OMFG...there are a lot of numbers. I've had an initial tune done by a local tuner guy that works with the guy I bought the motor from, and it worked great for learning. Now I'm running a tune that's fully mine - taken from a stock 2002 silverado manual tune. I figured out how to get my injector data put in...and discovered "abuse management" LOL. Mine was set to cut fuel at 1500rpm in park/neutral - and before I knew what it was, I was like "why is this chiz cutting fuel on me". Well, much like the Chrysler PCM doesn't know that the engine is running, the GM PCM doesn't know what gear I'm in nor does it know I'm moving. This is going to require more research.

The original tune I was given had the Jeep running pretty darn rich. Supposedly the MAF was "deleted" and it was set for a "speed density" tune. I'll be honest...I don't know what the fluck that means...sounds like "race car...blah blah"...and I don't need race car. I need bad ass sounding Jeep V8. So...switching over to the stock tune with the correct injectors, and properly installing the MAF again...Jeep is running <borat>VERY NICE!</borat>

I'm not sure which AC compressor to go with at this point. The Sanden 508 can be had for cheaper, but the R4 looks like it might take up less space? Either way...looks like $400-$500 in parts + custom AC lines. I just know I need AC...because it's getting hot AF in AZ right now...and I wanna enjoy driving my Jeep around regardless of the outside temps.

I think I've also come up with a solution to my shifter hitting the console/buttons issue. I found a "shift lever adapter" made for S-10s that were equipped with the NV3500. Literally the same shift tower, so I looked in to it more. This adapter will now allow a larger selection of shifters to choose from, and the bolt right up to the side of the shift lever - no cutting/welding necessary. I figure I should be able to find a shifter at the right angle, and if not, I can buy a straight one, and just bend it myself. Until then, I'm "slumming it" with my non-bolted down center console that's kinda jammed under the dash...and it works...but I am always using my cup holder, sooooo...that's missing.

I'll be bringing the Jeep to the Highline Autos cars and coffee with my son that first weekend in June (June 4th) - if any of y'all wanna meet up and say hey. Hopefully I'll have AC by then... 🤞