Instructions for automatic transmission flush

I need instructions or a link to instructions or video on how to flush transmission fluid on my 2000 tj 4.0 automatic transmission. Fluid is black and I don’t want to just change what is in the pan
Well FUDGE 🤦‍♂️. Decided to take skid plate off and clean it while I was flushing transmission. To start, bolt holes for 1 bolt on each side are rusted out. One of them left 1 1/2” hole in frame. The one of the 4 bolts, for what I’m calling a rubber mount, had a rounded off nut and I had to cut bolt off with my dremel. Skid plate was filled full of an fluid and sand combination. My fluid leak is rear of pan. I have a slight leak from rear main oil seal. I’ll flush transmission tomorrow and see if skid plate will bolt back up🤞. Address frame later if I can
 
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Well FUDGE 🤦‍♂️. Decided to take skid plate off and clean it while I was flushing transmission. To start, bolt holes for 1 bolt on each side are rusted out. One of them left 1 1/2” hole in frame. The one of the 4 bolts, for what I’m calling a rubber mount, had a rounded off nut and I had to cut bolt off with my dremel. Skid plate was filled full of an fluid and sand combination. My fluid leak is rear of pan. I have a slight leak from rear main oil seal. I’ll flush transmission tomorrow and see if skid plate will bolt back up🤞. Address frame later if I can
Can you post a couple of pics of the frame damage so we can see what you've got to work with?
 
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Can you post a couple of pics of the frame damage so we can see what you've got to work with?
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If it fails in 10k miles after the flush it would have failed at 10k miles without it. That flushing old dirty ATF out and replacing it with fresh ATF causes failures is nothing but an old wive's tale.

That rumor only started because most flushes are performed only as a last resort when the transmission was already about to shit the bed and was ready to fail with or without the flush.
Jerry, you are correct. I've done trans flushes on vehicles with 60k-200k miles and have never had one puke due to new fluid.
We use a flush machine which is hooks up between the cooler line and the radiator, or through the fill tube.
The one thing that I will not do when performing a flush service is adding the can of trans conditioner. I don't believe in it and have seen it cause problems.
 
Flush is done. Bands are adjusted. There is not a single skid plate bolt that will bite🤦‍♂️. Looks like I just need the center section of frame repaired on both sides. I’ve got a few friends that weld, one builds custom cars from frame up. And then it’s hoping transmission lasts a few thousand more miles. Thanks everyone
 
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This is a good thread to look at, might be more useful in your case.
Thanks for the link. Seems I'll make a call this week to see about a new PCM. Quick question: Could my problem be a bad sensor or something else that is temperature sensitive since mine will hard shift only when the engine\transmission is not hot? Or is that just another typical symptom of a bad PCM?
 
Thanks for the link. Seems I'll make a call this week to see about a new PCM. Quick question: Could my problem be a bad sensor or something else that is temperature sensitive since mine will hard shift only when the engine\transmission is not hot? Or is that just another typical symptom of a bad PCM?
You have the classic symptoms of the PCM issue. The hard shift from 1st to 2nd usually only occurs when first starting up from cold and it goes away after the first couple of shifts. Like I suggested before, you can put a scanner on it and check the codes, but make sure your scanner can read transmission codes.
 
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Could my problem be a bad sensor or something else that is temperature sensitive since mine will hard shift only when the engine\transmission is not hot? Or is that just another typical symptom of a bad PCM?
He'll give you a good answer. I don't know the details of the 05-06. He wouldn't waste time shipping a PCM if it was wiring or a sensor.
 
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