Dual rate springs: JKS JSPEC dual rate versus Metalcloak dual rate

while y'all are kickin around lemme ask a real odd question. you know i got these funky struts, now if something was to happen and blew 1 out. maybe it pops an o-ring IDK..... it looses pressure...... i go to the basement.

now i can't tear into this thing on a trail and may not be able to drive out collapsed. so would you think it possible use a coil over spring and some caps/plates to capture it on the stem and might this then allow me the ability to get out.

i had thought, once 1 went down. i could jack up the rig pull the bottom end of the strut slip on a plate that would contact the struts body, the C/O spring, then a plate to trap the spring on.

think the BS would fly in an emergency? and i got deja vu so sorry if i've asked b4.
and b4 i get scalded for a ludicrous idea............emergency, blockin a trail or can't get to the trailer that has a cheap spare air shock and my nitrogen tank.
I'd take a piece of DOM that fits the shock shaft OD, cut it to length for shaft showing at ride height, split in half, deburr it and carry that with a roll of electrical tape. If you lose the shock, jack it up, tape the two halves around the shaft and drive out slow. We do the same with chunks of square tube to hold the rig at ride height while we are dialing in the suspension.
 
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The best I could do is three different tunes on my fully compressed shocks. But I'm not spending the money on a shim kit anytime soon and most certainly not for this! 🤣

I tried to find people in the Nashville area to go together on a shim kit with no luck. Four people would be around $90 and 5 people would be around $75 each.

I ended up spending around $100 on 2 each 30, 50, and 70 compression stacks plus two 70 rebound stacks. With the shim in the shocks when shipped I think I have it pretty much covered.
 
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If springs don't matter, then why buy Currie when you can save money on rough country? Incidentally, I need to replace the Crown Vic rear springs I have now with something that won't sag to the bump stops. Morris advertises some 3.5" progressives, which is what I searched for and found this thread. Sooner than later I will be ordering a Savvy, so I don't much care what goes in now. If I can reuse Curries later I'll buy them now. If not, cheap wins. Specs are 99 TJ, Core control arms, Rusty's front springs will be replacing what looks like stock springs with a spacer (or 2), Rancho 9000 shocks, and 35" tires. Thoughts???
 
If springs don't matter, then why buy Currie when you can save money on rough country?
Thank you for saving me lots of time trying to help folks figure stuff out and all the time and typing which that entails. From this day forward, my pat answer will forever be, springs matter, go buy the softest ones you can find and enjoy the cushy ride.
 
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If springs don't matter, then why buy Currie when you can save money on rough country?
Context matters, springs don't matter for ride quality, but there's other ways they do matter. Specifically stack height and free length. Unless you really want more cowbell.
 
If springs don't matter, then why buy Currie when you can save money on rough country? Incidentally, I need to replace the Crown Vic rear springs I have now with something that won't sag to the bump stops. Morris advertises some 3.5" progressives, which is what I searched for and found this thread. Sooner than later I will be ordering a Savvy, so I don't much care what goes in now. If I can reuse Curries later I'll buy them now. If not, cheap wins. Specs are 99 TJ, Core control arms, Rusty's front springs will be replacing what looks like stock springs with a spacer (or 2), Rancho 9000 shocks, and 35" tires. Thoughts???
Compare unloaded spring lengths and you will see why.
 
Having recently spent a couple of hours wire wheeling and hand sanding what I assume are ProComp springs...PO shocks were ProComp so assuming...paint was brittle and chunking off...rattle canned them semi gloss black...

Since springs take a lot of road spray I'd assume how a manufacturer paints/coats a spring might be a more important long term consideration. That or just add pulling the springs and a fresh rattle can coat once a year... efficacy to both methods.

I'd make a wild ass guess Currie springs have a better finish and the coating will last longer than Rough Country.

Eventually will replace my springs...but not high on my priority list.

-Mac

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Thank you for saving me lots of time trying to help folks figure stuff out and all the time and typing which that entails. From this day forward, my pat answer will forever be, springs matter, go buy the softest ones you can find and enjoy the cushy ride.
Your responses in the other thread make so much more sense to me now.
 
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You mean you couldn't already tell that I'm completely over the full fucking ignorance and the intense desire to remain so?
Not at all, not without the source info anyways 😉

Your legitimate knowledge and help is appreciated, as always.
 
I have run about 12 different springs, either front or rear. I have seen zero difference in softness or cushyness. Yet I can tell when I adjust my rancho 9000 setting one click. Tells me all I need to know about shocks vs springs in ride quality.
 
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I have run about 12 different springs, either front or rear. I have seen zero difference in softness or cushyness. Yet I can tell when I adjust my rancho 9000 setting one click. Tells me all I need to know about shocks vs springs in ride quality.
Now you're just talking some next level flat earth bullshit.
 
I have run about 12 different springs, either front or rear. I have seen zero difference in softness or cushyness. Yet I can tell when I adjust my rancho 9000 setting one click. Tells me all I need to know about shocks vs springs in ride quality.
No way man! If one spring is 175 in/lb and the other is 145in/lb the 145 one will be softer. That is obvious!
 
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