Thinking I’m going to do this myself. I have watched the videos but wanted to know if there are any tips from those who have actually done it themselves.
98 exhaust manifold replacement
- Thread starter BonesXX
- Start date
Apply copious amounts of Kroil penetrant to exhaust manifold bolts where the manifold meets the exhaust.
IF the O2 sensors haven't been changed in the past 7 years or more; you should consider replacing them.
When replacing the O2 sensors; only use the recommended NGK/NTK.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...en-o2-sensor-thread.4068/page-33#post-1115492
IF the O2 sensors haven't been changed in the past 7 years or more; you should consider replacing them.
When replacing the O2 sensors; only use the recommended NGK/NTK.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...en-o2-sensor-thread.4068/page-33#post-1115492
It's really not as bad as you think. Just be sure to use painters tape and label everything you have to remove. While you're in there, take a look at the block expansion (freeze) plugs. If there is any rust, replace them. I say this because they rust from the inside out and you don't want to go back in to do this again. It's a relatively easy job with the exhaust and manifold out of the way. There's a couple plugs on the back side of the head that are nearly impossible to get to with the engine in, but you can get to the 5 on the drivers side.
FWIW, I prefer brass. That way you never have to worry about it again!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0080FZXZ4/?tag=wranglerorg-20
FWIW, I prefer brass. That way you never have to worry about it again!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0080FZXZ4/?tag=wranglerorg-20
+1 on labeling things if you haven't done it before.
It's a fairly straight forward job, the bolts are a pain to get to, ratchet wrenches and extensions are your friend. You won't fit a torque wrench in there so don't bother. Good 'n tight, and rechecking the bolts a few heat cycles later has worked well for the several I've done.
I'm assuming you are replacing a cracked manifold? I highly recommend having an exhaust shop weld in a flex joint downstream in the exhaust somewhere before the cat converter to prevent future cracking.
It's a fairly straight forward job, the bolts are a pain to get to, ratchet wrenches and extensions are your friend. You won't fit a torque wrench in there so don't bother. Good 'n tight, and rechecking the bolts a few heat cycles later has worked well for the several I've done.
I'm assuming you are replacing a cracked manifold? I highly recommend having an exhaust shop weld in a flex joint downstream in the exhaust somewhere before the cat converter to prevent future cracking.
I found this swivel socket to be incredibly handy. Definitely a good investment if you're planning to tackle this job.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YK7Q1U/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YK7Q1U/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Great thread with great advice. I will just add that you should be prepared to play with socket extension lengths and swivel sockets in order to access all the bolts. On my 2.5, I did manage to use a torque wrench, but only with various combinations of swivel sockets and extensions.
OP