The Bargain Box

I never could get this thing to drive safely enough for me to be ok with a high speed highway drive. After chasing my tail for a while I finally found the source of my random wobbles. It's amazing what you will find when the parts are removed instead of on the vehicle. I couldn't see any of this while it was installed. The drag link has slop in the adjusting sleeve and the ball joint on the other end is almost impossible to move. It is actually a ZJ drag link. The tie rod is stock and original and the ball joints are not good there either. Also, the runbicon express track bar needs both ends rebuilt. It also contacts the diff housing since I believe it's designed for 3.5"+ lift. Any suggestions on the new track bar? I'm ordering a complete ZJ steering setup. She is down hard for now. No spring offroading for me right now.
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She is finally off frame jack stands. While I had the front end apart I added my leveling spacers. I also did some cleaning. The new complete ZJ steering is in. I rattle canned it before installing. I used Jerry's alignment method to get it close. I still need the track bar which should be here next week. I plan on starting the MML and BL while I wait for the track bar since I can't drive it. Hoping to put the wheels back on today after final torque checks and greasing joints.
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BL and MML complete. I also removed the rear bumper which I have been wanting to do. I would like a flush mount in the future. I probably need to cut my tailpipe short to prevent it from being hit.
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Great thread.
Build is similar to where I am heading. Wish I could find bargains like some of the ones you have managed to pick up - great job.
Thanks, I have definitely found some good deals. Good luck with your build.
 
Watch the heim with the MC trackbar as many have reported it doesn't last very long.
I actually called them before purchasing and they were honest about it. They said they were never designed to last a long time. 1-2 years or 10k miles at best. They made both ends to be rebuilt as needed. It fits the bill for me because I might put 10k on this over the next few years.
 
I have stitches in my neck right now so I can't crawl around under the jeep to fix whatever is going on with my clutch. So I decided to chase my zoning issue. The air never fully closes on vent or floor or anywhere and it jumps around. Also, my cruise won't turn on. Have to keep myself busy until the stitches come out and I can't drive it so I figured why not?
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With my stitches removed and healed up it's back to the problem at hand. Noise in the bell housing area. Transfer case out. Need two hands to safely remove the transmission.
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I have new u-joints that I was waiting to install and a new speedo gear. Speedo gear is in but the u-joints are not wanting to come out. Need to get a tool for it. My usual trick with a c-clamp and a socket didn't work. I bent the handle on my c-clamp. These u-joints have become one with the shaft and yoke.
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I have new u-joints that I was waiting to install and a new speedo gear. Speedo gear is in but the u-joints are not wanting to come out. Need to get a tool for it. My usual trick with a c-clamp and a socket didn't work. I bent the handle on my c-clamp. These u-joints have become one with the shaft and yoke. View attachment 333093
Good going so far 👍, hopefully you get those U-joints out and we can head down to Uwharrie soon.
 
Tranny is out but I'm concerned. Will be posting this in the main forum for opinions. Clutch is fine, tranny not so much. That oil has less than 1k miles on it.

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I'm still hard down with question marks around the transmission. I can't find anyone locally to rebuild it and reman units are around $1k. I'm debating just putting it back in and running it until it eats itself. I also can't get some of my u-joints out. They are practically seized in so I'm sure they are original.