Mid-arm LJ Rubicon

CAUTION: This next post required the removal of the driver airbag. We die like men.

All jokes aside. I know some people think I’m crazy for removing a factory piece of safety equipment. But for me, the trade off is worth the risk. (I don’t do much road driving anyways)

I’ve debated the Genright quick disconnect steering wheel kit for some time now. The concept is cool, but the loss of the clock spring was a deal breaker for me.

After some research I found a hub adapter that would work while keeping the factory clock spring! This means the auto canceling turn signals, and horn button work as they should! For the airbag light, I wired in a resistor so there is no warning light on the dash. For kicks and giggles I added a quick disconnect hub. Pairing this with a flat steering wheel, the offset is very close to factory. Had the graphic department at work make me a custom horn button for a finishing touch. If anyone wants more details reach out, I’m happy to share.View attachment 268758View attachment 268760View attachment 268761View attachment 268762
I love it man im glad you posted it , cause i had given up searching after i previously bought the wrong hub for mine. but do you mind following me on IG at smokin_righthand and walk me through how you got your horn to work? i feel like its going to require some cutting and splicing and if thats the case i may be a little reluctant to do so. Just in case i want to slap my stock steering wheel back on.
 
Haven’t updated this for awhile. Jeep got a “roll cage” ordered the poison spyder weld it yourself kit. I’m very happy with the outcome.

EJS was good! I did break a front axle 😳 time for some upgrades! While I was there the PSC vendor also convinced me out of all my Jeep project savings 😁 can’t wait to install it!
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Haven’t updated this for awhile. Jeep got a “roll cage” ordered the poison spyder weld it yourself kit. I’m very happy with the outcome.

EJS was good! I did break a front axle 😳 time for some upgrades! While I was there the PSC vendor also convinced me out of all my Jeep project savings 😁 can’t wait to install it!
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After all the good effort into this build .. why go for a cage with that stanchion design?

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/looking-for-roll-protection-cage-ideas.17365/
 
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I don’t have easy access to a tube bender. No one makes a kit that goes behind the dash anymore. One day I could modify it if it ever starts bugging me enough. As of now, I honest don’t care.

What cage solution would you recommend?
I started out with that cage, before I had a bender, and have made a bunch of mods to it over the years - including replacing the stanchions. It does take some precise bending to make everything clear behind the dash, but it is certainly possible to retro fit it when you are ready.
 
I don’t have easy access to a tube bender. No one makes a kit that goes behind the dash anymore. One day I could modify it if it ever starts bugging me enough. As of now, I honest don’t care.

What cage solution would you recommend?

I hope that you modify it before getting into a situation where you really need the cage to work. You should care .. the stanchions are simply not a solution to the problem that you are trying to solve with an aftermarket cage.

I don't claim to be an expert, but even to me it's clear that something that with stanchions simply will not work when it's most needed since it can't be strong enough. That product only exists because people think it's "good enough" and that it's easy to install without pulling the dash.

@mrblaine @toximus does this below cage design look good to you, or the way the support is done along the tub floor still a stupid idea?

http://thoseguysrodandcustoms.com/offroad/roll-cages/jeep-tjlj-cages/
 
stanchions are simply not a solution to the problem that you are trying to solve with an aftermarket cage.

I don't claim to be an expert, but even to me it's clear that something that with stanchions simply will not work when it's most needed since it can't be strong enough. That product only exists because people think it's "good enough" and that it's easy to install without pulling the dash.

Do you know what problem I was trying to solve?

People loose their minds when they see stanchions, but never think twice when people are wheeling factory sport bars.

I wouldn’t mark stanchions being easy to install as a plus. I dread the day my heater core goes out. That might be the day I retrofit the tubes going to the floor.
 
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Do you know what problem I was trying to solve?

People loose their minds when they see stanchions, but never think twice when people are wheeling factory sport bars.

I wouldn’t mark stanchions being easy to install as a plus. I dread the day my heater core goes out. That might be the day I retrofit the tubes going to the floor.

Please do explain what you were trying to solve. I assumed that you wanted better protection than the factory setup. And please note that I'm not trying to be snarky or difficult, just trying to understand.

If you understand the compromises and plan to fix it in the future, then nothing more needs to be said.

It's human nature to want to push the boundaries more when we think we are safe. And that pushing comparatively happens less with the factory sport cage than with a cage like the one you have installed. Just like folks with lockers and bigger tires wanting to do more and putting themselves in front of obstacles they wouldn't without those aids. Just be aware and be safe as much as you can. And I'll still insist that you should care 🙂
 
My opinion is that at worst, stanchions may be more dangerous than stock. At best, stanchions are no safer than stock.

What's not just my opinion is that safety is an illusion with stanchions.

@mrblaine @toximus does this below cage design look good to you, or the way the support is done along the tub floor still a stupid idea?

http://thoseguysrodandcustoms.com/offroad/roll-cages/jeep-tjlj-cages/

It's still missing a few key tubes to be a cage that I'd trust.
 
My opinion is that at worst, stanchions may be more dangerous than stock. At best, stanchions are no safer than stock.

What's not just my opinion is that safety is an illusion with stanchions.



It's still missing a few key tubes to be a cage that I'd trust.

One thing I want to point out, all stanchions are not created equal. There is a pretty big difference in design in the poison spyder stanchion when compared to this one from motobilt.

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Please do explain what you were trying to solve. I assumed that you wanted better protection than the factory setup. And please note that I'm not trying to be snarky or difficult, just trying to understand.

Factory roll bar was bent when I purchased the Jeep rolled. It leaned to the passenger side. Both rear tubes were bent in. I straighten everything as much as I could but the top would not fit right. I couldn’t stand looking at it anymore. Problem was solved with this replacement.
 
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One thing I want to point out, all stanchions are not created equal. There is a pretty big difference in design in the poison spyder stanchion when compared to this one from motobilt.

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Are you saying these are better? I’m not seeing any benefits in these. They are still just a stanchion design.
 
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Are you saying these are better? I’m not seeing any benefits in these. They are still just a stanchion design.
The motobilt is pretty much a 90* angle running down to the floor and the cross welds flat to it rather than the upper welding to the top of a bent piece of 3/16th.

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I don’t have easy access to a tube bender. No one makes a kit that goes behind the dash anymore. One day I could modify it if it ever starts bugging me enough. As of now, I honest don’t care.

What cage solution would you recommend?
Is AtoZ Fab out of business? I thought they still offered a through the dash cage for a TJ.
 
The motobilt is pretty much a 90* angle running down to the floor and the cross welds flat to it rather than the upper welding to the top of a bent piece of 3/16th.

I think you’re missing the point. The stanchions are a flawed design in general. You still have the issue of it being a 3/16 piece of angle that won’t like a side load
 
I think you’re missing the point. The stanchions are a flawed design in general. You still have the issue of it being a 3/16 piece of angle that won’t like a side load
I’m not missing anything. The motobilt is 3/8th thick at the top and the 90* angled section below that won’t bend very easily. While I realize that no stanchion design is as strong as DOM tubing through the dash, some designs are better and stronger than others. Alas, I’m not here to argue and muck up your build thread, overall the Jeep looks great!