Battery draw (could it be the alternator?)

Do you have aftermarket electronics, also does the hood light stay off when hood is shut

Battery connectors good? An alternator absolutely can drain the battery if one of its rectifiers (a diode) is shorted. An alternator produces AC, it uses four rectifiers to convert the AC to DC.

I had a parasitic draw that I recently traced down to my new DDin radio. I did a bunch of google searches and reinforced my suspicions on easiest way to find the problem if it isn't Alternator issues.
If you have a DVM (they are $15 if you don't) disconnect the negative battery terminal and put the DVM between the cable and terminal on a ~1A DC setting. After a quick spike to charge some of the caps you should be seeing a steady state draw of around 50ma or less. If you have more than that you have a parasitic draw that is draining your battery (mine was 750ma!).
BleepinJeep had a good video on how to then go about figuring out where your parasitic draw is, basically pulling fuses one and a time till you find the corresponding circuit.

I moved my cable that runs from the battery to the alternator. I measured a 100mA static draw, I had to separate /isolate the pos and neg wires by 6" to eliminate the draw.

BadgerTJ said:

I moved my cable that runs from the battery to the alternator. I measured a 100mA static draw, I had to separate /isolate the pos and neg wires by 6" to eliminate the draw.

Click to expand...

That is coupling of the currents iirc. I remember when I used to build a lot of vacuum tube amps you had to make sure every time your positive and negative leads crossed they crossed perpendicularly otherwise they had to be kept separate or they would couple and then you get a bunch of nasty stuff in your circuit. You can also twist them counter clockwise to reduce coupling (twisted pair, star quad, etc).

ALL battery terminal, cable and alternator connections should be checked for oxidation and ensure they are tightened properly.
With the engine running.... use a multi meter to test the alternator charging voltage from the alternator stud to the battery terminal.
The voltage should be a minimum of 13.5V, but really should be 13.8-14.3V.
IF after testing the charging voltage and replacing the alternator and there is still a problem; check the three 32 pin ECU harness connector pins for signs of oxidation and firmly reinsert the connectors into the ECU receptacles.
The vehicles ECU controls the regulation for charging voltage of the alternator; so if there are loose or dirty connections the ECU cannot control the charging voltage properly.