Well those of us who know what it takes don't need to see the improvements. But I KNOW how you feel. I can't wait until I'm putting my Jeep back together as it's about the same thing.
My 1978 GMC motorhome
- Thread starter Mike_H
- Start date
Well those of us who know what it takes don't need to see the improvements. But I KNOW how you feel. I can't wait until I'm putting my Jeep back together as it's about the same thing.
Hell, is that all you're looking for? Look into one of these...
The Corvair-powered Ultra Van. Could be @Mike_H's next ride! 
But, unsafe at any speed…Hell, is that all you're looking for? Look into one of these...
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OP
Wow... Well that is....ahhh...unique! Yeah, let's go with unique!Hell, is that all you're looking for? Look into one of these...
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If you thought a Jeep with a 42RLE and 3.07 gears was slow....Hell, is that all you're looking for? Look into one of these...
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OP
Been a bit. Got the front end all painted and installed.
That was done a couple months ago, but I've been distracted. Last couple of days, I've been back at it, getting my ride height set again (it was off in front and back) and I'm putting new shocks in the rear. Also flushing my brake fluid and making sure the parking/emergency brake works.
First... My ride height wouldn't adjust properly, so I made an adjustable linkage to the height control valve from hardware store parts. They sell these at the specialist shop for 75 bucks. I have 20 into mine.
Once I got that working, I pulled the tires off and started looking at the brakes and shocks. This is the first time I've pulled the rear wheels off this thing... And I've got more work to do.
My coach came with an "upgrade" to the rear wheel brakes. They are discs instead of drums. One pair of the wheels has those stupid calipers with the integral, ratcheting parking brake from a 77 to 83 or so Eldorado. I think ruff stuff sells this same caliper as a conversion for a Dana 60 rear.
Anyway...I was checking out the setup and found a pretty major problem...
Anyone else care to tell me what is incorrect... There are actually two things wrong here.
First... My ride height wouldn't adjust properly, so I made an adjustable linkage to the height control valve from hardware store parts. They sell these at the specialist shop for 75 bucks. I have 20 into mine.
Once I got that working, I pulled the tires off and started looking at the brakes and shocks. This is the first time I've pulled the rear wheels off this thing... And I've got more work to do.
My coach came with an "upgrade" to the rear wheel brakes. They are discs instead of drums. One pair of the wheels has those stupid calipers with the integral, ratcheting parking brake from a 77 to 83 or so Eldorado. I think ruff stuff sells this same caliper as a conversion for a Dana 60 rear.
Anyway...I was checking out the setup and found a pretty major problem...
Anyone else care to tell me what is incorrect... There are actually two things wrong here.
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The parking brake cable isn't seated properly and the bleeder is below the brake hose/ line?
OP
You got it. I couldn't believe it... I'm constantly amazed as the BS hackery I find on this thing. The wiring it really bad. I'm afraid to start tearing into that, because I fear that I'll have to gut the whole coach to fix it!
OP
Well...I thought the rabbit hole was deep on the Jeep...
First, good news. I removed the upside down caliper tonight and the mounting bracket was installed in the reverse orientation that it should have been. Flipping it over puts my caliper in a much better position, IMHO.
This is how it came to me.
I don't know enough about brakes to know if the caliper position makes a difference, but it sure looks more natural once that bracket is flipped over.
I also found out that my rear control arm is loose on its pin. Quite a bit of play... So I'll be replacing those. I suppose I should measure endplay based on the book (0.050" at the spindle), but I can almost guarantee I'll fail that test. New pins and bushings (sold as a set of 4) are 1100 dollars!
if I'm going to spend that money and have it all apart...I probably should replace air bags too. 800 for OEM or 1800 for quad bag. Decisions, decisions...
First, good news. I removed the upside down caliper tonight and the mounting bracket was installed in the reverse orientation that it should have been. Flipping it over puts my caliper in a much better position, IMHO.
This is how it came to me.
I don't know enough about brakes to know if the caliper position makes a difference, but it sure looks more natural once that bracket is flipped over.
I also found out that my rear control arm is loose on its pin. Quite a bit of play... So I'll be replacing those. I suppose I should measure endplay based on the book (0.050" at the spindle), but I can almost guarantee I'll fail that test. New pins and bushings (sold as a set of 4) are 1100 dollars!
if I'm going to spend that money and have it all apart...I probably should replace air bags too. 800 for OEM or 1800 for quad bag. Decisions, decisions...
My 2004 Grain hopper trailer had an airbag leak. When you shut off the engine and were someplace quiet you could here the slightest wisp of air escaping. Has 4 bags but just replaced the one. So far the rest of the bags are fine. Not too tough to replace.
If they look decent and aren't leaking, I'd run them. Esp if you're not going thousands of miles.
If they look decent and aren't leaking, I'd run them. Esp if you're not going thousands of miles.
OP
The one bag here holds the whole side up. We typically drive 100-500 plus miles when we take it out. Eventually, I'd like to head west with it. Peace of mind dictates I replace them with new versions and keep the current ones I have as spares... They still hold air, but they do have weather checking. They are 44 years old, after all.
OP
Yes. The calipers are swapped left for right. Whomever did the work also installed the mounting brackets on incorrectly... At least, it appears that way.
OP
Very cool thread Mike. I've always wanted to travel cross country in an RV. Maybe some day!
Thanks. I get more interest here than I do on an actual forum based on the old girl (and her sisters)! Its fun restoring a "classic" and its been educational too. It was definitely ahead of its time when produced, and I'd say its STILL ahead of its time compared to most of the RV's that are out there.
OP
I finished disassembly on the driver's rear running gear tonight. My control arm pins are trashed. The rear one which has the play in it, was seized in it's mount. The grease holes were plugged up with old, dried out grease. I'm sure that's what caused the issues.
Notice the grease holes differences in the two. Not sure what's going on there, but it explains why one was decent and the other was bad.
The weird thing is that I expected the pins to be fine and the bronze bushings to be worn. Instead, the bushings appear fine (I'm sure they are not) but the steel pins have literal grooves worn in them!
So... I'll be spending my TJ shock upgrade money on the motorhome. A new set of pins and bushings is 1070 dollars before shipping and tax.
Looking at my air ride bags though... I think I'm just going to run em. I did some research on the bags, and found that the rubber is just a protective cover. What holds the air is a canvas inner bag. I only have minor cracking in the outer rubber cover, so I'm gonna run it!
And since it's me, I need to have a rust issue. When I pulled the suspension bracket off (it is bolted on) I found that it had trapped water. I have a bit of thinning behind the brackets. There is also another cross member inside the frame that help support the suspension. The frame is kinda sandwiched in there. I am not sure if I should repair it, or just let it be. I have a couple ideas on repair. It will probably happen. I estimate I've lost about half the thickness of the metal (which isn't that thick to begin with) for about 25 percent of the area under the bracket. The rust...
Notice the grease holes differences in the two. Not sure what's going on there, but it explains why one was decent and the other was bad.
The weird thing is that I expected the pins to be fine and the bronze bushings to be worn. Instead, the bushings appear fine (I'm sure they are not) but the steel pins have literal grooves worn in them!
So... I'll be spending my TJ shock upgrade money on the motorhome. A new set of pins and bushings is 1070 dollars before shipping and tax.
Looking at my air ride bags though... I think I'm just going to run em. I did some research on the bags, and found that the rubber is just a protective cover. What holds the air is a canvas inner bag. I only have minor cracking in the outer rubber cover, so I'm gonna run it!
And since it's me, I need to have a rust issue. When I pulled the suspension bracket off (it is bolted on) I found that it had trapped water. I have a bit of thinning behind the brackets. There is also another cross member inside the frame that help support the suspension. The frame is kinda sandwiched in there. I am not sure if I should repair it, or just let it be. I have a couple ideas on repair. It will probably happen. I estimate I've lost about half the thickness of the metal (which isn't that thick to begin with) for about 25 percent of the area under the bracket. The rust...
Do you have access to a lathe? Either build up the shafts or cut new ones?
On our trencher project we just tgot done ig welding and recutting the roller shafts for the cross conveyor belt.
OP
Do you have access to a lathe? Either build up the shafts or cut new ones?
On our trencher project we just tgot done ig welding and recutting the roller shafts for the cross conveyor belt.
I own a machine shop... So, yeah, I could make em... But honestly, I probably can't do it cheaper than what I can buy them for... Every government project I have my guys do takes time away from paying customers. They need to be turned, hardened, ground, through drilled, cross drilled, and milled. If I was going to try and keep them, I'd send em out for hard chrome on the journal surfaces and grind it back in. Problem is...I don't know what to grind it to. Both of them are far enough gone that I don't think I could get a good measurement.