Stretched TJK (bigger rubber & extra inches)
- Thread starter sierradmax
- Start date
OP
2 out of 3... I skimped on the reids and went with Rancho's... Red over orange...
OP
Started taking care of the items at the bottom of the list..
Front axle breather tube
Front axle locker wiring & locker sensor (hopefully TJ Rubicon PCM will pick up on the JK axle sensor)
Filled front diff with gear oil
Bled P.S. system
Dorman universal coolant bottle for windshield washer fluid. Had to relocate hoses & wiring to the opposite side of the engine bay.
Front axle breather tube
Front axle locker wiring & locker sensor (hopefully TJ Rubicon PCM will pick up on the JK axle sensor)
Filled front diff with gear oil
Bled P.S. system
Dorman universal coolant bottle for windshield washer fluid. Had to relocate hoses & wiring to the opposite side of the engine bay.
how will it know? does it care? the sensor is just a lamp that lets you know it's moved to engaged, isn't it?
i omitted the sensor from my JK axle, hope that wasn't a mistake.
Me too. It's my understanding that the locker itself works like any switch... On/off. The two yellow wires are just coms.
OP
Not sure. Won't know until I button everything up with the rear and test.
Hit a milestone this afternoon. The front is off jackstands and I'm ready to begin the rear.
Hit a milestone this afternoon. The front is off jackstands and I'm ready to begin the rear.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
the JK e-locker does not need anything but 12V. Simple and has proven reliable for me.
OP
Jeep was tugged out, turned around, rear axle pulled and time for some bodywork.
I decided to keep Metalcoak armor to retain the 6" flare and they have a 4" stretched corner guard. However, 4" isn't enough. I decided to modify the corner guard to gain another 1" of stretch and re-cut the opening for 37's. This, along with powder coating was done last fall. Mounted, it measures out to 101" wheelbase.
I decided to keep Metalcoak armor to retain the 6" flare and they have a 4" stretched corner guard. However, 4" isn't enough. I decided to modify the corner guard to gain another 1" of stretch and re-cut the opening for 37's. This, along with powder coating was done last fall. Mounted, it measures out to 101" wheelbase.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Did you do anything special to move the MC flare mounts? Hole saw the original mount out, scribe new location and hole saw alike. Did you see any misalignment after welding?
OP
It took a bit of time. I cut off the two weld nuts and discarded. I told metalcloak what I was doing and they shipped me 4 new ones for free. I carefully cut the brackets that held the top of the fender to salvage. Fill the 3/8" holes with weld, grind smooth.. traced the top of the tire over the armor and adjusted the fender to where I thought it would fit well. The fender does go into the corner a bit but nothing severe. I used some DOM and 1/8" plate to rectify where the weld nut nested and fill the gap in the corner against the flare.
I'm a little nervous in that the genright tank claims up to 7" of stretch with a Dana 44. The fender is set to 5". I don't have the tank in, axle with wheel at full stuff to see if I CAN gain 5" of stretch.. alot of time and money if I screw up..
I'm a little nervous in that the genright tank claims up to 7" of stretch with a Dana 44. The fender is set to 5". I don't have the tank in, axle with wheel at full stuff to see if I CAN gain 5" of stretch.. alot of time and money if I screw up..
I'm not sure which tank you have. I got the 19.5 EXT and I'm at just a hair under 5" of stretch and I have about an inch of clearance at the diff cover. You should be fine, but only way to find out.
OP
They have full measurements on their site you could ‘fab’ some rough dimensions out of cardboard, but i think you’ll be fine.
I've got the Comp 23 and can take some measurements if you want.
Great job on the corners. I wasn't as brave so I just trimmed off as much as I could and got 4.5" of stretch.
I was able to get 6-7 inches stretch with that tank and an JL Dana 44. You should be fine, the pumpkin had plenty of room. My tubes get within 1/4" of the tank
OP
It's been a while since I've posted. I've mounted both rear guards, wired up the taillights then another project took precedence.
My 08 duramax threw an overboost and vane position sensor code. Research indicated unison ring and turbo vanes were probably stuck. Long story short, pulling the turbo is needed. GM tech manual suggests pulling the cab and in hindsight, I should have. Took me about 20 hours to pull.
My 08 duramax threw an overboost and vane position sensor code. Research indicated unison ring and turbo vanes were probably stuck. Long story short, pulling the turbo is needed. GM tech manual suggests pulling the cab and in hindsight, I should have. Took me about 20 hours to pull.
OP
Additionally, I joined the buggy club last week.
1.5 DOM chassis
Gm 3.8L
Power glide trans
Atlas 3.8
Dana 60/70
1.5 DOM chassis
Gm 3.8L
Power glide trans
Atlas 3.8
Dana 60/70
OP
It's been a while since I posted an update on the TJ Build. July was spent working on getting a turbo out and back into my truck while most of August, I shifted efforts to get the Buggy trail worthy.
I did get the Genright comp tank "mocked up" for install and didn't like the way its forward mounting tabs hit the center crossmember/tank support. Since this support will no longer serve as upper shock mounts or gas tank support, it's only function is to support two body mounts. I knew it needed to be modified anyways as normally, 4-link mounts will interfere @ full stuff. I cut the crossmember out in prep for a small piece of steel C-channel.
Currently, the only support for the frame rails, from the skid back, is now the rear frame crossmember/bumper support. I've debated a back-half kit but I want to retain stock frame width. Measuring where the frame arch is in relation to the center of the fender, It's exactly what I've been planning.. 5.5"
Who here has stretched a TJ frame? What's the correct way to shift the arch back to match the opening?
A. four large fishplates on each frame rail with a 5.5" piece of box tubing?
B. 2nd clean frame cut 5.5" longer then fishplate both together?
I did get the Genright comp tank "mocked up" for install and didn't like the way its forward mounting tabs hit the center crossmember/tank support. Since this support will no longer serve as upper shock mounts or gas tank support, it's only function is to support two body mounts. I knew it needed to be modified anyways as normally, 4-link mounts will interfere @ full stuff. I cut the crossmember out in prep for a small piece of steel C-channel.
Currently, the only support for the frame rails, from the skid back, is now the rear frame crossmember/bumper support. I've debated a back-half kit but I want to retain stock frame width. Measuring where the frame arch is in relation to the center of the fender, It's exactly what I've been planning.. 5.5"
Who here has stretched a TJ frame? What's the correct way to shift the arch back to match the opening?
A. four large fishplates on each frame rail with a 5.5" piece of box tubing?
B. 2nd clean frame cut 5.5" longer then fishplate both together?
Blaine is the go to guy when doing the stretch but go to around page 40 in my thread and it's being talked about and explained how to do it.