Tennessee Red

Christian came home the other day and his 98 TJ was making a Knocking noise, I originally thought the worst but once we popped the hood and started to track it down it was the PS Pump. I still had the pump from my 2004 TJ and he swapped it out today.

PS pump 1.jpg


PS pump 2.jpg
 
My currie tie rod has been bent every which way over time, thus I purchased the BMB 4340 tie rod. Since I am always wanting spares (just in case) I also ordered new Tie Rods Ends from RockJock to install on the 4340 rod and the removed bent tie rod(with TREs) will be used as a spare.

I finally got around to removing the bent tie rod and drag link, straightened the drag link with the press, and then installed the new Tie Rod with new TREs. I then did a pretty good alignment and bingo she drove like a dream this morning on my way to work!!

I also bought the PCS anti-splash vent with pressure relief and installed it. I was just using a hose run down past the firewall as an overflow and not only did it allow the fluid to escape, it was making a bit of a mess. Hopefully the pressurized vent will keep the fluid in the reservoir and if it does escape it will be now be captured and then sucked back in when cools.


As shown above, I got a used Currie Rear Dana 60 Semifloat axle. I started to dig into it and discovered that it did not have the Explorer brakes (as advertised) but actually old 92 and earlier Taurus brakes. I played around with them for a while and was able to figure out how to make them work (flipped with parking brake capability); however, a consult with Blaine determined that the caliper piston dia was smaller than the stock TJ disk brakes and it was recommended to start over. Currie price for the Explorer brakes was pretty outrageous but I was able to find a Explorer brake kit for a Ford 9" (with Torino housing flange which is the flange on the currie semifloat) from a hot rod website that had the Explore brake conversion kit for half the Currie price (including the $87 in shipping). Until I actually receive them, I am not going to celebrate, but I am hoping that they do ship them before they realize that others are charging double. The R&P, locker, and axle shafts all look good. I will need to install new axle shaft bearings and seals when I install the new brakes. I confirmed that the Pinion has a 1310 yoke installed which is what I was hoping for (hoping my existing driveshaft will work). I am planning on ordering the Currie bridge and a Currie diff cover once I recover some funds.
 
As shown above, I got a used Currie Rear Dana 60 Semifloat axle. I started to dig into it and discovered that it did not have the Explorer brakes (as advertised) but actually old 92 and earlier Taurus brakes. I played around with them for a while and was able to figure out how to make them work (flipped with parking brake capability); however, a consult with Blaine determined that the caliper piston dia was smaller than the stock TJ disk brakes and it was recommended to start over. Currie price for the Explorer brakes was pretty outrageous but I was able to find a Explorer brake kit for a Ford 9" (with Torino housing flange which is the flange on the currie semifloat) from a hot rod website that had the Explore brake conversion kit for half the Currie price (including the $87 in shipping). Until I actually receive them, I am not going to celebrate, but I am hoping that they do ship them before they realize that others are charging double. The R&P, locker, and axle shafts all look good. I will need to install new axle shaft bearings and seals when I install the new brakes. I confirmed that the Pinion has a 1310 yoke installed which is what I was hoping for (hoping my existing driveshaft will work). I am planning on ordering the Currie bridge and a Currie diff cover once I recover some funds.

Can you share the link from the hot rod website? It may come in handy in the future. How did you know the difference in explorer vs taurus brakes?

I had to order some parts from black magic brakes when I completely destroyed the emergency brakes going in reverse with the emergency brakes engaged.
 
Can you share the link from the hot rod website? It may come in handy in the future. How did you know the difference in explorer vs taurus brakes?

I had to order some parts from black magic brakes when I completely destroyed the emergency brakes going in reverse with the emergency brakes engaged.

https://www.quickperformance.com/Fo...ke-Kit-With-Shoe-Style-Park-Brake_p_4023.html

It took them a few weeks to ship, I was just about to send them an email when I received the shipping info and they arrived next day. Summer has been busy so have not had time to check fit, etc... yet.

I had some help identifying them as Taurus brakes. Taurus brakes have a smaller piston then OEM Jeep, also the parking brake actually uses the caliper and is via the disk brake pads and rotor. The explorer parking brake is similar to the Dana 44 disk brake where it utilizes shoes in the rotor drum. Same help recommended that I just start over and that the explorer brakes would work so I took his advice.
 
Christian came home the other day and his 98 TJ was making a Knocking noise, I originally thought the worst but once we popped the hood and started to track it down it was the PS Pump. I still had the pump from my 2004 TJ and he swapped it out today.

View attachment 336964

View attachment 336965

I love to see a young man getting hands on like that- That is a guy that will know how to change his wife’s flat tire, Good job
 
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Is the rear Dana 60 TJ width? What are you looking at for a front axle?

I thought I wanted tons, but leaning towards JLUR axles now?

Yes the Dana 60 is TJ width. I am looking at a HP Dana 44 housing for the front. I found a used dynatrac but the guy wanted too much for it so I will probably just end up getting a ECGS housing and transfer my R&P, axles, C's etc... ECGS does have a HP Dana 44 housing at stock TJ width it just doesn't show on their website but I emailed them and they said they would sell just the housing.
 
@Brianj5600 there is a guy in Houston, TX that has JK width Dynatrac PR44 and PR60 rear for $7500 on FB Rock Crawler Classifieds. 4.88 gears and ARB lockers. It would take some cutting and welding but would be a nice set of axles for a TJ. I actually thought about jumping on them and selling my rear Dana 60 but financially not the right time.

Edit: I found it on my phone and sent you screenshot via text.
 
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After the Clayton trip I decided to go ahead and start the install of the RJ60 in the rear since the locker in the rear of the Dana 44 was popping. I was originally going to wait until I had found a front axle and do them at the same time, then I waffled back and forth on waiting to install the rear axle, but after Clayton I figured why put anymore money into the Dana 44 when I have the 60 sitting there in the garage. So I started the process of installing the 60.

The RJ60 I got had no brackets and it had a stock Dana diff cover. I went ahead and purchased a Currie Iron Diff Cover and the Bridge Kit and installed those, then I decided if I was going to install this new axle, I might as well try and fix my "hopping" issue during steep climbs so i decided to get rid of the short arms in the rear and install a custom setup.

I only have this one picture, which shows another great use for Soft Shackles in the garage, but I figured I would document what I have done up till this point for posterity and so I can remember it a year from now when I need to fix something. Possibly I will come back and add pictures later.

rj60.jpg


Axle:

Has Detroit Locker, 5.13:1 gears. 35 spline shafts, Semi-Float. Set 20 Housing End (Torino, late model Big Bearing). 1330 Big Cap Yoke.
-Removed the previous owners installed Taurus brakes and installed newly purchased Explorer brakes. Installed them flipped. The BMB flip kit works on the explorer brakes.
-Added the Currie Iron Diff Cover and Currie Bridge Kit. Welded up the existing breather hole (which interfered with the bridge install), utilizing the breather in the Currie Diff Cover.
-Utilized Hard and Rubber Brake Lines from Dana 44.
-Utilized the axle side spring perches and the shock mounts from the Dana 44.
-GR 10 deg LCA brackets (I cheated them up as much as I possibly could while still maintaining decent separation on axle and to also give the LCA as much travel up as possible before hitting frame. This took me about 3 trials of tacking on brackets before finding the right balance).
-GR 3" Upper Control Mounts were welded onto the Currie bridge.
-Utilized my current TW drive shaft which is the correct length and to replace the existing Ujoint (which is shot) with a 1330/1330 Big Cap Spicer 5-1204X ujoint. Spicer 2-94-58X Ubolts.

Frame Side:
-Cut off existing brackets.
-Installed a set of GR 4 Link Brackets which were modified slightly.
-Upper Links are 1.75 aluminum links (WOD 26” cut length) with LH and RH CE-9113 Johnny Joints (1"-14, 2 5/8 width, 0.563 bore)
-Lower Links are 2.0 aluminum links (WOD 21” cut length) with LH and RC CE-9114 Johnny Joints (11/4-12, 2 5/8 width, 0.563 bore)
-Cut slots in the Body foot well area to allow for clearance of the upper links. Plan is to add "tunnels" to cover these slots in the future, but that has not been done yet.
-Brackets are installed right at the bend in the frame. Installed with fwd edge of channel right at this bend.
-Modified aft edge of skid plate on both sides due to frame bracket installed. Added new insert location just fwd and replaced the other nutserts since they were getting a little rough.

Additional Notes related to axle install:
-Had to add some bump stop (utilized aluminum BL pucks at the upper spring perch) with the bump stopping right before the LCA contacts the frame. With the body cut at the foot wells, the LCA at the frame is the upper limit.
-The axle is pushed back approx 1" from the stock location in order to get everything to line up just right, this required me to trim the fenders.
-Shocks are set up with 50/50.
-Cut off the 3rd Catalytic Converter and added a 6” round thru resonator/muffler purchased from Amazon, Upower TBM2616.

Other work accomplished during this time:
-Dropped the fuel tank and found out where my fuel leak was coming from. The two vents in the top of the tank were making contact with the body and it rubbed holes into the vent. Replaced the vents with Dorman 911-060 vents (thanks to Toximus build thread for that info!) and trimmed the body (and beat it a little) where the vents are located. Redid the vent line so that it extends past both sides of the tank and ends high in the wheel well.
-Steering Gear was leaking so I sent it back to West Texas OffRoad and they rebuilt it under warranty.
-Regeared the front to 5.13:1. USA Standard R&P.
-Replaced both the LH and RH Unit Bearings with Timken HA597449 unit bearings (the passenger side had play so I changed them both and will use the removed drivers side as a spare).
-Rebuilt the LH and RH RCV axles. NOTE: After taking the RCV axles apart, I did not need to rebuild them and I actually will probably never worry about the joints again.

Still have not driven it to see how it turned out. Due to time/travel/etc.. probably will be a few weeks before I get the opportunity.
 
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My son builds these Warhammer figures and then he goes and plays Warhammer games a few times a week. He asked me if he could have the hello kitty sticker that was sitting on my toolbox and a little later he sent me this picture. He said the one is standard Warhammer symbols, the other is custom Kitty.

IMG_20221110_153145.jpg
 
After the Clayton trip I decided to go ahead and start the install of the RJ60 in the rear since the locker in the rear of the Dana 44 was popping. I was originally going to wait until I had found a front axle and do them at the same time, then I waffled back and forth on waiting to install the rear axle, but after Clayton I figured why put anymore money into the Dana 44 when I have the 60 sitting there in the garage. So I started the process of installing the 60.

The RJ60 I got had no brackets and it had a stock Dana diff cover. I went ahead and purchased a Currie Iron Diff Cover and the Bridge Kit and installed those, then I decided if I was going to install this new axle, I might as well try and fix my "hopping" issue during steep climbs so i decided to get rid of the short arms in the rear and install a custom setup.

I only have this one picture, which shows another great use for Soft Shackles in the garage, but I figured I would document what I have done up till this point for posterity and so I can remember it a year from now when I need to fix something. Possibly I will come back and add pictures later.

View attachment 375568

Axle:
Has Detroit Locker, 5.13:1 gears. 35 spline shafts, Semi-Float. Set 20 Housing End (Torino, late model Big Bearing). 1330 Big Cap Yoke.
-Removed the previous owners installed Taurus brakes and installed newly purchased Explorer brakes. Installed them flipped.
-Added the Currie Iron Diff Cover and Currie Bridge Kit. Welded up the existing breather hole (which interfered with the bridge install), utilizing the breather in the Currie Diff Cover.
-Utilized Hard and Rubber Brake Lines from Dana 44.
-Utilized the axle side spring perches and the shock mounts from the Dana 44.
-GR 10 deg LCA brackets (I cheated them up as much as I possibly could while still maintaining decent separation on axle and to also give the LCA as much travel up as possible before hitting frame. This took me about 3 trials of tacking on brackets before finding the right balance).
-GR 3" Upper Control Mounts were welded onto the Currie bridge.
-Current plan is to utilize my current TW drive shaft which is the correct length and to replace the existing Ujoint (which is shot) with a 1330/1330 Big Cap Spicer 5-1204X ujoint. This is still TBD.

Frame Side:
-Cut off existing brackets.
-Installed a set of GR 4 Link Brackets which were modified slightly.
-Upper Links are 1.75 aluminum links with LH and RH CE-9113 Johnny Joints (1"-14, 2 5/8 width, 0.563 bore)
-Lower Links are 2.0 aluminum links withe LH and RC CE-9114 Johnny Joints (11/4-12, 2 5/8 width, 0.563 bore)
-Cut slots in the Body wheel well area to allow for clearance of the upper links. Plan is to add "tunnels" to cover these slots in the future, but that has not been done yet.
-Brackets are installed right at the bend in the frame. Installed with fwd edge of channel right at this bend.
-Modified aft edge of skid plate on both sides due to frame bracket installed. Added new insert location just fwd and replaced the other nutserts since they were getting a little rough.

Additional Notes related to axle install:
-Had to add some bump stop (utilized aluminum BL pucks at the upper spring perch) with the bump stopping right before the LCA contacts the frame. With the body cut at the wheel wells, the LCA at the frame is the upper limit.
-The axle is pushed back approx 1" from the stock location in order to get everything to line up just right, this required me to trim the fenders.
-Shocks are set up with 50/50.

Other work accomplished during this time:
-Dropped the fuel tank and found out where my fuel leak was coming from. The two vents in the top of the tank were making contact with the body and it rubbed holes into the vent. Replaced the vents with Dorman 911-060 vents (thanks to Toximus build thread for that info!) and trimmed the body (and beat it a little) where the vents are located. Redid the vent line so that it extends past both sides of the tank and ends high in the wheel well.
-Steering Gear was leaking so I sent it back to West Texas OffRoad and they rebuilt it under warranty.
-Still need to regear the front to 5.13:1. I bought the R&P but have not installed yet.

Still have not driven it to see how it turned out. Due to time/travel/etc.. probably will be a few weeks before I get the opportunity.

Schweet!
 
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I was out in my garage piddling with the jeep when my neighbor came over, he also has a TJ on 35's. He laughed and said "long arm in back and short arm in front, you can't do that". And I said that it is going to be the next big thing, "The Mullet Design, all the party with half the cost".

#mulletdesign #crawlrated

PXL_20221115_142322494.jpg
 
I was out in my garage piddling with the jeep when my neighbor came over, he also has a TJ on 35's. He laughed and said "long arm in back and short arm in front, you can't do that". And I said that it is going to be the next big thing, "The Mullet Design, all the party with half the cost".

#mulletdesign #crawlrated

View attachment 376878

jj-wolf-mullet.gif
 
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I was out in my garage piddling with the jeep when my neighbor came over, he also has a TJ on 35's. He laughed and said "long arm in back and short arm in front, you can't do that". And I said that it is going to be the next big thing, "The Mullet Design, all the party with half the cost".

#mulletdesign #crawlrated

View attachment 376878
That’s what I’m rockin
6639DCBC-9CFC-4416-9325-B18607DA5927.jpeg
 
Finally had a chance to drive the jeep after the recent rear axle swap. Took it Sunday real quick around the neighborhood and it drove really well. I don't really like the sound with just the resonator dumping behind the skid, but I will figure that out in the future. Sunday night I installed the soft top and doors and then drove it to work on Monday. Well, with the top on, the holes cut in the footwells, and the exhaust dumping behind the skid, it resulted in exhaust smell in cab. So, I am going to have to move fabricating tunnels to close up these holes to the top of the list. Also, the rear pinion seal is leaking. Unfortunately it is a proprietary Currie seal that is $60 (with shipping), ordered it today.

Other than the pinion seal and fabricating the tunnels, the Jeep drove great. I drove 20 miles to work through the city streets and then on the way home I took it out on the interstate and took it up to 65mph for about 15 miles and then took back roads home and it drove great in all conditions!! I got to get used to having the Detroit locker in the rear over the selectable when driving on the roads, but other than that it drove better than before.

Edit - replaced the pinion seal with Currie PN: 60-8011rj pinion seal.
 
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Finally had a chance to drive the jeep after the recent rear axle swap. Took it Sunday real quick around the neighborhood and it drove really well. I don't really like the sound with just the resonator dumping behind the skid, but I will figure that out in the future. Sunday night I installed the soft top and doors and then drove it to work on Monday. Well, with the top on, the holes cut in the footwells, and the exhaust dumping behind the skid, it resulted in exhaust smell in cab. So, I am going to have to move fabricating tunnels to close up these holes to the top of the list. Also, the rear pinion seal is leaking. Unfortunately it is a proprietary Currie seal that is $60 (with shipping), ordered it today.

Other than the pinion seal and fabricating the tunnels, the Jeep drove great. I drove 20 miles to work through the city streets and then on the way home I took it out on the interstate and took it up to 65mph for about 15 miles and then took back roads home and it drove great in all conditions!! I got to get used to having the Detroit locker in the rear over the selectable when driving on the roads, but other than that it drove better than before.

Took a while to get used to the big pops that can happen with the Detroit. They always sound like you broke your entire axle in half lol. With the Detroit I always just had to ease into and off of the throttle when you’re at speed or in a corner or that rear shimmies pretty good.
 
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I had a Detroit in my Dana 35 and my ex-wife was driving the Jeep one time with my older step-daughter riding with her. She knew about the Detroit and how it would pop because she'd been in the Jeep once with me and had asked what that noise was. So her mom had gone around a corner and BOOM the Detroit was talking. My step-daughter looks at her mom with big eyes and tells her mom O'man you just broke Rick's Jeep, and he is going to be SO MAD when he finds out. So, she carried this on all the way home and waited until her mom came inside and started to tell me she'd done something to my Jeep. She finally broke down laughing and told her mom that it was normal. Talk about a great joke and we laughed for 30 minutes. Of course, her mom didn't but what can you say.
 
Well here is going to be the general idea for the tunnels.

Slot in floor for control arm clearance:

slot.jpg


Tunnel bent up:
tunnel.jpg


Now I just got to get in there and clean everything up, install it, and seal it. Then hopefully after both sides are done I won't die from Carbon Monoxide poisoning :)
 
Well here is going to be the general idea for the tunnels.

Slot in floor for control arm clearance:

View attachment 380582

Tunnel bent up:
View attachment 380583

Now I just got to get in there and clean everything up, install it, and seal it. Then hopefully after both sides are done I won't die from Carbon Monoxide poisoning :)

Nice work on the tunnel, Vic.
 
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