Stalled after getting gas. Cranks but won't start.

J

justfixedthat...

TJ Enthusiast
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Jan 20, 2020
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152
Location
Texas
About a week ago at the gas station, I got back in and had no power at all when I put the key in. I 'tightened' the connections to the battery (which were not loose) and it started right up. Yesterday I got gas and drove about a mile and it stalled as I slowed down for the red light. Wouldn't start back up. The first try I had no power. Every try after that it would crank but wouldn't turn over. Towed it back home. It was doing this about a year ago and a new CPS fixed it. I swapped the CPS last night but it didn't help this time. I also previously had to replace the starter brushes multiple because they kept getting worn down because oil was leaking into the starter and it wouldn't start. So last night I opened the starter just in case but the brushes were fine. I did put on a new starter solenoid for fun. Didn't help.

- The ignition sticks when I try to turn the key. I have to wiggle it and turn it backward before I can turn it forward. A few time I couldn't turn it at all.
- It had been throwing a small evap leak code for a while, although it disappeared a few days ago. (There was also a code for a large leak but that was a cracked evap hose. Fixed that.)
- I don't hear the fuel pump when I key on. Maybe I'm not supposed to?

Options:
Ignition actuator pin
Evap purge valve stuck open
Fuel pump
Faulty replacement CPS

Any ideas?
 
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I think your problem is likely the ignition assembly switch in the steering column- If you use the forum search engine you will see some situations where guys have ran into that
 
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AndyG said:
I think your problem is likely the ignition assembly switch in the steering column- If you use the forum search engine you will see some situations where guys have ran into that
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The switch, the pin, or both? I replaced both several years ago because they were giving me problems.

Thanks.
 
justfixedthat... said:
The switch, the pin, or both? I replaced both several years ago because they were giving me problems.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I don’t know that you’re going to know until you get into it but I do believe that’s where you may be having the issue-
 
I just went through something similar when the Jeep would crank no problem and wouldn’t fire. I disconnected the air intake tube at the throttle body and sprayed starter fluid it in while I had someone turn the key and it fired up just for a couple seconds on the starter fluid so I knew I had spark and no gas. I laid under the gas tank and had my wife turn the key and I could not hear the fuel pump prime. I decided to replace the fuel pump (today actually) and it fired right up.
 
Thor said:
I just went through something similar when the Jeep would crank no problem and wouldn’t fire. I disconnected the air intake tube at the throttle body and sprayed starter fluid it in while I had someone turn the key and it fired up just for a couple seconds on the starter fluid so I knew I had spark and no gas. I laid under the gas tank and had my wife turn the key and I could not hear the fuel pump prime. I decided to replace the fuel pump (today actually) and it fired right up.
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I couldn't hear the pump last night either. How exactly did you put the starter fluid into the throttle body? Did you hold the throttle open? How much starter fluid? Did you squirt it in while they cranked it or before?

Thanks
 
Yes I held the throttle body open a little bit but just barely cracked it open. Not wide open. Sprayed starting fluid in it and my wife turned the key and while it was cranking I sprayed more in for it to fire on. It only fired up for a few seconds but that’s all you need to do to know if you have a fuel or a spark issue. If it fires on starting fluid, you have a fuel issue. If it doesn’t fire on starting fluid, more likely a spark issue.
 
Thor said:
Yes I held the throttle body open a little bit but just barely cracked it open. Not wide open. Sprayed starting fluid in it and my wife turned the key and while it was cranking I sprayed more in for it to fire on. It only fired up for a few seconds but that’s all you need to do to know if you have a fuel or a spark issue. If it fires on starting fluid, you have a fuel issue. If it doesn’t fire on starting fluid, more likely a spark issue.
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Okay. What kind of starter fluid? When you say spray do you mean literally a spray? Does it matter?
 
Go to any auto parts store and they will have starter fluid. It comes in an aerosol can like WD40. And yes it’s a spray. I gave it a spray before turning the key and only sprayed it for a few seconds while cranking and after it fired up.
 
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Thor said:
Go to any auto parts store and they will have starter fluid. It comes in an aerosol can like WD40. And yes it’s a spray. I gave it a spray before turning the key and only sprayed it for a few seconds while cranking and after it fired up.
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Okay thanks for the info.
 
Thor said:
Yes I held the throttle body open a little bit but just barely cracked it open. Not wide open. Sprayed starting fluid in it and my wife turned the key and while it was cranking I sprayed more in for it to fire on. It only fired up for a few seconds but that’s all you need to do to know if you have a fuel or a spark issue. If it fires on starting fluid, you have a fuel issue. If it doesn’t fire on starting fluid, more likely a spark issue.
Click to expand...

Is there anything that could be preventing it from getting fuel besides a bad fuel pump? For example a bad ignition switch preventing the pump from getting proper voltage. I swapped that and it didn't fix it, but just as an example. Or, is there a way to know that it is definitely the pump before having it replaced? I put a new one in a year ago so I'm not excited about doing that first.

But I'm on my way out to get starter fluid.
 
So no one is thinking the purge valve? I had a small evap leak code for a while and apparently a purge valve stuck open can cause stalling and trouble starting. Any experience with that?
 
justfixedthat... said:
Is there anything that could be preventing it from getting fuel besides a bad fuel pump? For example a bad ignition switch preventing the pump from getting proper voltage. I swapped that and it didn't fix it, but just as an example. Or, is there a way to know that it is definitely the pump before having it replaced? I put a new one in a year ago so I'm not excited about doing that first.

But I'm on my way out to get starter fluid.
Click to expand...

There are many possibilities but you said you couldn’t hear the fuel pump humming when you first turned the key on right?

What brand of fuel pump did you put in last year?
 
That could definitely be part of the problem with it not being a quality fuel pump replacement. Most everyone on here will tell you Bosch or Delphi brands are the best and most reliable replacements. I personally went with Delphi.

Did you try and starting fluid?
 
Thor said:
That could definitely be part of the problem with it not being a quality fuel pump replacement. Most everyone on here will tell you Bosch or Delphi brands are the best and most reliable replacements. I personally went with Delphi.

Did you try and starting fluid?
Click to expand...

I don't have anyone to crank it for me at the moment. But I did check the fuel pressure. Each time it was at about 44-45 when I keyed it on and it didn't rise when I cranked it. I'm not sure how to interpret that.

Replaced:
IAC
MAP
TPS
CPS (got a second one to try)
Starter solenoid
Ignition switch
Ignition actuator pin

Haven't done the purge valve/solenoid yet.
 
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Noticed the fuel injector fuse was blown. Replaced it and started it up. The injectors made loud clicking and the engine ticked (almost a small rattle) like it was misfiring and it dies after about 15 seconds, without blowing a fuse again.

What am I looking at?
 
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