Fuel pressure testing

I realize this is an old post. My jeep stalled a few days ago about 2 miles after I got gas. Cranks but won't turn over. Changed the CPS, IAC, MAP, TPS, starter solenoid, ignition switch, and ignition actuator pin. And checked the starter brushes.

I can't hear the fuel pump when I key it on (not sure if I'm supposed to) but I checked the pressure last night and it read 44-45 when I keyed it on each time. It didn't change when I cranked it.

I'm not sure how to interpret that. And I don't know if it would be related to the stall/no start issues.

44-45 lbs would not create a no start condition, is the Jeep running now. Throwing parts at it is not the best approach especially if they are not oem or equivalent.
 
44-45 lbs would not create a no start condition, is the Jeep running now. Throwing parts at it is not the best approach especially if they are not oem or equivalent.

No it's not running.

I'm on a time crunch so I just swapped a number of sensors because any of those could be responsible. The jeep did this a year ago and a new Crankshaft Position Sensor fixed it so I thought maybe that would be it. Another time it was having trouble starting and I kept having to replace the starter brushes. So I was just trying the things that have worked in the past. Another time it was the coil pack. So I guess that's next.

But you're saying it's not fuel pump, based on the readings?
 
No it's not running.

I'm on a time crunch so I just swapped a number of sensors because any of those could be responsible. The jeep did this a year ago and a new Crankshaft Position Sensor fixed it so I thought maybe that would be it. Another time it was having trouble starting and I kept having to replace the starter brushes. So I was just trying the things that have worked in the past. Another time it was the coil pack. So I guess that's next.

But you're saying it's not fuel pump, based on the readings?

If those are your numbers then yes it's fine. The crank and distributor pickup are the 2 critical sensors that aftermarket sensors often fail. A bad crank sensor generally takes the fuel pump out.
 
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If those are your numbers then yes it's fine. The crank and distributor pickup are the 2 critical sensors that aftermarket sensors often fail. I bad crank sensor generally takes the fuel pump out.

^^^THIS^^^
When you replaced the CPS, was it MOPAR? For me, it took 3 different parts store brands of sensors failing prematurely to convince me that MOPAR sensors was the way to go on these Jeeps . One of the three was no-start right out of the box.
Another thing is to THOROUGHLY check/repair the wire bundle behind the valve cover (remove anything that impedes a visual check of individual wire insulation) and the crank sensor wires themselves for chafing/ burns
 
^^^THIS^^^
When you replaced the CPS, was it MOPAR? For me, it took 3 different parts store brands of sensors failing prematurely to convince me that MOPAR sensors was the way to go on these Jeeps . One of the three was no-start right out of the box.
Another thing is to THOROUGHLY check/repair the wire bundle behind the valve cover (remove anything that impedes a visual check of individual wire insulation) and the crank sensor wires themselves for chafing/ burns

When this happened last year a new CPS from Oreilly fixed it. It wasn't MOPAR. It had a 1-year warranty and it just expired so this time I got the one with a lifetime warranty. It didn't fix it and I ended up returning it and getting the same one that worked last year.

I'll put it in tonight and if it works that'll confirm the diagnosis. Then I'll order a MOPAR CPS.

So CPS is the running theory so far?
 
When this happened last year a new CPS from Oreilly fixed it. It wasn't MOPAR. It had a 1-year warranty and it just expired so this time I got the one with a lifetime warranty. It didn't fix it and I ended up returning it and getting the same one that worked last year.

I'll put it in tonight and if it works that'll confirm the diagnosis. Then I'll order a MOPAR CPS.

So CPS is the running theory so far?
Worth a look in my opinion/experience
If you research, you will find that even "lifetime warranty" sensors are garbage in a TJ. THEY MUST BE FACTORY SENSORS if you wish them to be problem-free for any decent amount of time. Oreilly was the no-start out of the box for me. Got a refund for that one. Longest lasting was the NAPA brand. Lasted about 14 months. 4+yrs problem free after I tracked down and installed the MOPAR sensor (the NAPA stranded me on an easy solo camping trip and now I carry an extra MOPAR sensor everywhere).
Yes, they cost significantly more, but this is not a vehicle you can keep running reliably with parts store china crap...
edit: as far as sensors are concerned
 
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Worth a look in my opinion/experience
If you research, you will find that even "lifetime warranty" sensors are garbage in a TJ. THEY MUST BE FACTORY SENSORS if you wish them to be problem-free for any decent amount of time. Oreilly was the no-start out of the box for me. Got a refund for that one. Longest lasting was the NAPA brand. Lasted about 14 months. 4+yrs problem free after I tracked down and installed the MOPAR sensor (the NAPA stranded me on an easy solo camping trip and now I carry an extra MOPAR sensor everywhere).
Yes, they cost significantly more, but this is not a vehicle you can keep running reliably with parts store china crap...
edit: as far as sensors are concerned

Tried out the new Oreilly CPS and a new evap purge valve/solenoid. I ordered a Mopar CPS.

Just to clarify, the fuel pump doesn't seem to be the issue since it's putting out 45 psi. Correct?

Should I be looking at the coil pack as well? I had to replace that about a year or so ago. Yes from Oreilly. Or Amazon...
 
If those are your numbers then yes it's fine. The crank and distributor pickup are the 2 critical sensors that aftermarket sensors often fail. A bad crank sensor generally takes the fuel pump out.

Takes the pump out as in causes it not to function or ruins it?

If I'm getting 45 psi at the rail, am I not getting spark?
 
Takes the pump out as in causes it not to function or ruins it?

If I'm getting 45 psi at the rail, am I not getting spark?

I check for ignition spark with one of these. Cheap & easy. 5 bucks at HF or Amazon. Slightly more at auto parts stores...but still cheap & easy

Screenshot_20220628-083110_Google.jpg
 
Waiting for the Mopar CPS. New coil pack didn't fix it. After I put the old coil pack back in, I noticed the fuel infector fuse was blown and it started when I replaced it. But, the injectors tick (couldn't hear them before) and the engine ticks (almost a small rattle) like it's misfiring and it dies after about 15 seconds, without blowing a fuse again.

I didn't try the new fuse with the new coil pack.

What else could be causing the fuel injectors to be acting up like this and causing it to stall? I assume there must be a short somewhere in the wiring harness or the coil pack or something. The ECU was giving me issues about 2 years ago as well.
 
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