35s on stock parts

FJR said:

How did you install you Currectlync? I think I read somewhere that the Currectlync tie rods can be installed on top of the knuckles. However, that does not make scene because of the tie rod has a tapered end.

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From the bottom of the knuckles

FJR said:

How did you install you Currectlync? I think I read somewhere that the Currectlync tie rods can be installed on top of the knuckles. However, that does not make scene because of the tie rod has a tapered end.

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If you get a big brake kit Blaine can reverse the taper. Otherwise you buy a tapered sleeve, drill out the knuckles, and weld it in on top. There's a video on the BFH Garage about the tie rod flip.

FJR said:

II’ll be installing a Rock Krawler suspension. They are local for me. I always root for the home team and try to buy USA.

Chris did a GREAT write up on a PSC installation, so I’ll follow his lead in the near future. Do you still have the stock front Rubicon Dana 44? How does the PSC hydraulic ram assist at highway speeds?

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I have an RK long arm on my TJ (older model). I replaced their proprietary joints with genuine johnny joints. That was a good move in my opinion. I don't have any opinion on the current RK joints. The only performance drawback that I can point to is the tendency to get light on the front end on steep pitches. Not enough anti-squat in the suspension geometry. That seems to be a trait of kit long-arms on TJ's. I need to fix that someday.

My front axle has the Rubicon Dana 44 housing but not much else. RCV CR-Moly axle, ARB locker, Yukon ring and pinion. I did the BMB big brake kit with the tie-rod flip and modified sway bar links. Additionally, I used the Currie tie rod/steering and track bar. The PSC steering box helped minimize steering wandering and dead spot. I spent a fair amount of money to get it to this point. There are quality ways to do it for less money.

Honestly, it's such a pleasure to drive now. The PSC is subtle--I cannot ever tell definitively that it has done its job on the road at speed. Off road, it is very apparent--very easy to hold a line one a rough road even at high speed. Very fun in the desert where I usually off road. Occasionally I can tell the PSC isn't at full power in parking lots at low speed. Never much of a problem though. Highly recommended at the appropriate time in a build.

I’m on a budget. Goal is to run 35’s.

FJR said:

I’m on a budget. Goal is to run 35’s.

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this does not compute, or your definition of "budget" is a bit different from mine

I think his term Budget means being conservative with his money and not Cheap.

Not gonna lie. Had me in the first half.

FJR said:

I’ve got a transmission shop w/ a good reputation installing Eaton E-Lockers and gears this week on my 2003 Jeep TJ Rubicon.

Apparently, when the OEM lockers are activated, the locker actuator inflates (Photo-1) and the plunger moves to the left (Photo-2) and the dashboard blocker indicator illuminates.

From my observations of the Eaton E-Locker, there is nowhere for the OEM plunger the connect to the Eaton E-Locker.

My question is: how does the OEM locker indicator interface w/ the Eaton E-Locker? What have you guys done when you installed your lockers?

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I've never seen anyone hook after market lockers up to those sensors.

FJR said:

I’ve got a transmission shop w/ a good reputation installing Eaton E-Lockers and gears this week on my 2003 Jeep TJ Rubicon.

Apparently, when the OEM lockers are activated, the locker actuator inflates (Photo-1) and the plunger moves to the left (Photo-2) and the dashboard blocker indicator illuminates.

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The OE Rubicon Locker Sensor is only usable with the Rubicon locker. I'd remove it and install a plug into its hole in the diff housing. I'd also completely forget about trying to use the Rubicon locker switches and wiring, you'll have continuous flashing locker lights if you do since the locker sensor won't work.

I bypassed the OE locker switch and wiring and installed my own separate F/R locker switches and wiring, it's no more difficult that turning a light bulb on & off.

You can see my OE Rubicon locker switch is still there but I no longer use it.

FJR said:

Two of six packages

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What model number is the e-locker you chose?

Rwd1960 said:

What model number is the e-locker you chose?

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Bob,
If you are still running the thick cut ring gear that came with the rubicon Dana 44, then you need a 19977-010.

Great! Now get it sandblasted and galvanized. There is a place in CT that does hot dip galvanizing.

FJR said:

The model number of the e-locker is: EAT 19969-010

I have not installed the lockers and gears yet. Still jerking around w/ the shop. Good news is i just ordered Revolution rear axles. Fronts are on back order, w/ no anticipated ship date. So i ordered RCVs.

While i'm here, i got a question. I'd like to cheep out on rims. JK rims are a dime a dozens. If i get 1.5" synergy wheel spacers, what kind of performance can i expect. What will it do to my scrub radius. These are the rims i'm looking at. btw, i need 17" rims for the BM Super BBK (w/ master cylinder). 16" rims are tight, so 17" rims will have a little extra circumference.

To paraphrase Donald Rumsfeld, there are known knowns; there are things we know that we know. There are known unknowns. But there are also unknown unknowns. The things we do not know, we don't know.

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I run the 16” BMB on my LJ with 15” rims and 35’s works great.