Dual-spring coil-over questions

You will need to do an outboard in the rear to run 12 inch shocks. @mrblaine does Fox not make a stem mount shock in the 2.0 steel?
 
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Ok, new plan: steel body Fox remote reservoir (DSC if I can get it, but I'm only able to find it for a 7/8" shock rod), 11" front, 12" rear. Rears will require outboarding, and fronts will require new mounts for the Fox shock eyelets at both ends. Have I got that right?
 
Ok, new plan: steel body Fox remote reservoir (DSC if I can get it, but I'm only able to find it for a 7/8" shock rod), 11" front, 12" rear. Rears will require outboarding, and fronts will require new mounts for the Fox shock eyelets at both ends. Have I got that right?

Good so far.
 
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We haven't seen a set of the steel body stem mounts in a very long time. Not a fan though since the stem arrangement they have eats up lots of shock body.
Am I correct to assume based on the specs of the shock you recommend with average 4 inch springs you will need to manipulate both upper and lower mounts?
 
Wouldn't it be nice if a shock company came out with a universal shock, where you can pick length, and an assortment of end caps that are interchangable to fit anything. Standardized valving that's easily changed and a basic Schrader valve for nitrogen fills.
 
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You want nothing to do with the aluminum body shocks. Steel body shocks 980-02-039 and 034 with upgraded reservoirs to however much financial pain you can stand.

@mrblaine what is the downside to the aluminum body shocks? Does the body distort when it gets hot ?
 
If you watch the ram extrusion of the billet, that is what controls the bore, bore diameter, and parallelism of the sides relative to the piston stroke. It doesn't take much to figure out that there is nothing controlling how evenly the body extrudes around the ram. I know from conversations with folks on the inside that it is not uncommon for them to be more banana shaped than they should be. The entire process was designed to cut costs so having the eye formed as part of the body to near net shape is very cheap when you can include the body. It was not done to bring up quality, just lower cost.

 
If you watch the ram extrusion of the billet, that is what controls the bore, bore diameter, and parallelism of the sides relative to the piston stroke. It doesn't take much to figure out that there is nothing controlling how evenly the body extrudes around the ram. I know from conversations with folks on the inside that it is not uncommon for them to be more banana shaped than they should be. The entire process was designed to cut costs so having the eye formed as part of the body to near net shape is very cheap when you can include the body. It was not done to bring up quality, just lower cost.


So I guess to cut costs they probably do not machine the inside bore, maybe just run a hone down to clean up the sealing surface? I can see where this would make it hard to get a consistent repeatable shock tune. Are steel body shocks made with a tubing such as a dom where the tolerances are tighter then end caps installed on both ends?
 
So I guess to cut costs they probably do not machine the inside bore, maybe just run a hone down to clean up the sealing surface? I can see where this would make it hard to get a consistent repeatable shock tune. Are steel body shocks made with a tubing such as a dom where the tolerances are tighter then end caps installed on both ends?

I was told they are not honed. As extruded with a clean die. The steel bodies use a close tolerance DOM special tubing specifically designed and built for the job they do. Yes, the ends are machined to accept the various cap solutions required.
 
I was told they are not honed. As extruded with a clean die. The steel bodies use a close tolerance DOM special tubing specifically designed and built for the job they do. Yes, the ends are machined to accept the various cap solutions required.

Blaine, what do you typically do for lower front mounts with the 11”? Do you have any pictures of options to give ideas? Thanks
 
Blaine, what do you typically do for lower front mounts with the 11”? Do you have any pictures of options to give ideas? Thanks

We use the Poly kit, adapt the top to the stock spring perch, mount the lower next to the lower control arm after cutting off the shock mount.
 
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We use the Poly kit, adapt the top to the stock spring perch, mount the lower next to the lower control arm after cutting off the shock mount.

Do you weld a bolt on as a stub on the lCA mount on the front axle? Trying to picture it in my mind…
 
Do you weld a bolt on as a stub on the lCA mount on the front axle? Trying to picture it in my mind…

The Poly Performance kit comes with a lower mount to weld to the axle.
 
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