Tweezer's 2004 LJ

he mentioned a JK axle swap instead of building up the Dana 30.

JK axles are wider by about 4". they don't offer any better housing construction than what you have. the only difference would be the high pinion vs low and if that was your desire you could get 1 from a Cherokee and bolt it right in. it's a side ways swap not a real step up. those of us who have done it are left kinda unfulfilled and wanting more. due to the front axle pinion angle vs castor it's really better suited to shorter lift heights under 3 once you're up around 4" trying to gain pinion angle quickly ruins castor.

i find axles all the time up here what ratio where you seeking?
 
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JK axles are wider by about 4". they don't offer any better housing construction than what you have. the only difference would be the high pinion vs low and if that was your desire you could get 1 from a Cherokee and bolt it right in. it's a side ways swap not a real step up. those of us who have done it are left kinda unfulfilled and wanting more. due to the front axle pinion angle vs castor it's really better suited to shorter lift heights under 3 once you're up around 4" trying to gain pinion angle quickly ruins castor.

i find axles all the time up here what ratio where you seeking?

Thanks for this, you guys are amazingly informed and willing to share.

I didn't think I would end up here, but I am thinking 35" tires, so 4.88 or 5.13 ratio? I appreciate you keeping an eye out, but I might stick with a built Dana 30. Most times this Jeep will see pavement and when it's not, it won't be very extreme.
 
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Thanks for this, you guys are amazingly informed and willing to share.

I didn't think I would end up here, but I am thinking 35" tires, so 4.88 or 5.13 ratio? I appreciate you keeping an eye out, but I might stick with a built Dana 30. Most times this Jeep will see pavement and when it's not, it won't be very extreme.

If you’re going to run 35’s, then definitely minimum 5.13 with your 42rle. 5.38 would be better but not possible in your 30 up front. I’m running 5.13 and wish I’d have done 5.38.
 
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If you’re going to run 35’s, then definitely minimum 5.13 with your 42rle. 5.38 would be better but not possible in your 30 up front. I’m running 5.13 and wish I’d have done 5.38.

Thanks, Jason. Agreed, I was thinking 5.13 for 33s or 35s. Am I opening a can by going 35s, and should I just stick to 33s? An LJ sure does look better with 35s IMO. Lol...
 
I ordered the 4".
5.13’s will be good with 33’s and ok with 35’s. Since you’re going with 4” suspension lift, then the difference between 33’s and 35’s will be the addition of a 1.25” body lift. You’ll likely only be opening up a “can” if you do a tuck as well.
 
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5.13’s will be good with 33’s and ok with 35’s. Since you’re going with 4” suspension lift, then the difference between 33’s and 35’s will be the addition of a 1.25” body lift. You’ll likely only be opening up a “can” if you do a tuck as well.

Might as well go all in. It’s an LJ after all, they start looking normal at 35’s.
 
5.13’s will be good with 33’s and ok with 35’s. Since you’re going with 4” suspension lift, then the difference between 33’s and 35’s will be the addition of a 1.25” body lift. You’ll likely only be opening up a “can” if you do a tuck as well.

I am not a fan of BLs, but I know I need one to run 35s. Thanks again, Jason.
 
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This is super helpful, thanks. I hadn't thought about upgrading the shafts, but that is a great thought. I looked at the Big Black brake kit when I was shopping last night but didn't yet buy it. I am assuming I will need to though once everything is installed. I did buy the currectlync last night when I ordered the Savvy lift. Though I didn't get the anti-rock, I got the ORO Swayloc instead.

I just got the revolution discovery shafts last month and only have one trip on them but they seem nice to me. I had went through a few stock shafts over the last year or so. I’ve never had an issue from the dana 44 so far. Locked 35s and wheel pretty hard on it for reference. You would probably be alright with upgraded pads and rotors which is significantly cheaper than the big brake kit.
 
I am not a fan of BLs, but I know I need one to run 35s. Thanks again, Jason.

It’s not so much that you need the body lift for 35s, but the body lift allows you to tuck your transfer case up a significant amount more.
 
I just got the revolution discovery shafts last month and only have one trip on them but they seem nice to me. I had went through a few stock shafts over the last year or so. I’ve never had an issue from the dana 44 so far. Locked 35s and wheel pretty hard on it for reference. You would probably be alright with upgraded pads and rotors which is significantly cheaper than the big brake kit.

So funny, I just, and by just mean in the last 6 minutes, added a link to the Revolutionary 30 spline Discovery shafts to my list. Lol

Good to know on the brakes, thanks.
 
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It’s not so much that you need the body lift for 35s, but the body lift allows you to tuck your transfer case up a significant amount more.

This is my approach. I am going to move up to 35s after the lift and see how much body lift I need. 1" or 1/2" is more palatable than 1.25". Maybe that's just in my head. Lol
 
This is my approach. I am going to move up to 35s after the lift and see how much body lift I need. 1" or 1/2" is more palatable than 1.25". Maybe that's just in my head. Lol

the body lift equals wheel space that doesn't mess with the suspension.it lends room to work in tight spots and space to cheat/tuck things up.
 
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Just wanted to put my two cents in : I realize you have some money to drop on this project which is all well and good. I would definitely ask yourself if you seriously plan on doing some hardcore wheeling. If the answer is no I would reconsider doing a TT and going up to 35s. If you just like the look thats great, but a TT can be a whole can of worms, and to run 35s the right way there is a definite jump in money. If its never going to see trails ....currie steering/35s/TT is overkill. I say all of this because I found myself in the same boat as you when I got my LJ.....at some point I thought to myself "wait a minute....this thing may get wheeled 5-10 times a year IF THAT, why am I going to spend all that money". Anyways, not trying to make you feel guilty, just wish I would have been more patient and considered things before I ordered a bunch of parts. Either way, owning a jeep has been a fun learning experience. ENJOY
 
Just wanted to put my two cents in : I realize you have some money to drop on this project which is all well and good. I would definitely ask yourself if you seriously plan on doing some hardcore wheeling. If the answer is no I would reconsider doing a TT and going up to 35s. If you just like the look thats great, but a TT can be a whole can of worms, and to run 35s the right way there is a definite jump in money. If its never going to see trails ....currie steering/35s/TT is overkill. I say all of this because I found myself in the same boat as you when I got my LJ.....at some point I thought to myself "wait a minute....this thing may get wheeled 5-10 times a year IF THAT, why am I going to spend all that money". Anyways, not trying to make you feel guilty, just wish I would have been more patient and considered things before I ordered a bunch of parts. Either way, owning a jeep has been a fun learning experience. ENJOY

Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I don't plan to do a TT, but I have been back and forth in my head about 33s vs 35s, for the exact reason you mentioned. I do want to set myself up for whatever comes in the future and build with the best parts so I am not redoing work potentially in the future. It will most certainly see waaaay more pavement than anything else, and I want it to drive amazingly. I figured to do that I had to spend some money, but it is probably overkill. Thanks again, I really do appreciate your point of view. It has me rethinking where I end up in the end.