Interview with Mr. Blaine on Jeep Talk Show podcast
- Thread starter mde8965
- Start date
Get yourself a motiv power bleeder, you can flush and rebleed the whole system by yourself pretty easily.
https://jeeptalkshow.com/episode-371-can-your-jeep-keep-you-alive/
Excellent interview and I had bookmarked.
Folks can download an mp3 even -
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Is this the bleeder I should get?
Motive Products - 0100 European Power Brake Bleeder Kit https://a.co/d/85yPCnE
Having dealt with this question and concept many times over the last few years, it has become clear I should have spent far more time discussing how lockers, t-cases and brakes all work together.
I have tried to explain to folks on the phone that if you are locked at both ends and the t-case does not have a differential in it, all you need is one working brake with enough braking ability on 1 wheel to lock up all 4 tires.
Even when I patiently explain it slowly, over and over, I still get- Yeah, we put a broom handle in plumbed to the rear axle brakes so when we are going downhill on steep descents it can just drag the rear to help.
What's a broom handle, you mean like drift brakes?
Yes, so when we apply it a little, it drags the ass end and helps going down stuff.
It doesn't work that way if you have a normal t-case and are locked at both ends. Are you locked at both ends?
Yes, but we have a 4 speed Atlas, that's why we have it. Yeah, doesn't work that way unless you are in 2 wheel drive, are you in 2 wheel drive?
No, we are in 4 low range. It helps us going down steep stuff.
No, this isn't hard to understand, put the rig on jack stands, put it in 4-wheel drive, lock it up and then send me video of you turning either one wheel at a time, or turning both on the same end and not the other end. It won't do it because you have NO differentiation front to rear or side to side.
No it works going down steep stuff.
I give up.
I have tried to explain to folks on the phone that if you are locked at both ends and the t-case does not have a differential in it, all you need is one working brake with enough braking ability on 1 wheel to lock up all 4 tires.
Even when I patiently explain it slowly, over and over, I still get- Yeah, we put a broom handle in plumbed to the rear axle brakes so when we are going downhill on steep descents it can just drag the rear to help.
What's a broom handle, you mean like drift brakes?
Yes, so when we apply it a little, it drags the ass end and helps going down stuff.
It doesn't work that way if you have a normal t-case and are locked at both ends. Are you locked at both ends?
Yes, but we have a 4 speed Atlas, that's why we have it. Yeah, doesn't work that way unless you are in 2 wheel drive, are you in 2 wheel drive?
No, we are in 4 low range. It helps us going down steep stuff.
No, this isn't hard to understand, put the rig on jack stands, put it in 4-wheel drive, lock it up and then send me video of you turning either one wheel at a time, or turning both on the same end and not the other end. It won't do it because you have NO differentiation front to rear or side to side.
No it works going down steep stuff.
I give up.
Got it thanks. Not a single hmm or haw in the whole interview. Well done.
Now I have to call my installer to see if he flushed the brake system when he did the BMB install along with R&P. I did look in the reservoir and could see to the bottom..lol.
Yes and no. It’s the right bleeder but that one has Euro fittings. This one has mopar fittings: Motive Products - 0103 Brake System Power Bleeder for Chrysler/Dodge/Mopar https://a.co/d/f3ORYYm
The BBK requires new calipers, so he would have had to of bled the system with fresh fluid. If you are already low I would definitely check for a leak.
Not low, just clear enough to see through it. And of course you're correct on the new calipers..
Thanks.
Gotcha--I misunderstood when you said you could see the bottom and took it as empty
When I installed my BMB pads, I made my own self bleeder out of a coffee creamer bottle and it worked great. This is what came out. Here is the video explaining how to make one.
Homemade Brake Bleeder
Mobusaki
TJ Enthusiast
Watched the video. Neat idea. My one problem with it is that when you're pumping the brakes it will be sucking fluid in and out. I don't want the fluid that comes out, and all the gunk with it, to go back in again. But if you've already flushed out the crap and the fluid in there is good stuff this would be great.
The method I use is reliable but slow. I just pump the brake a bit, hold the pedal down with a wood block, open the bleed screws, and wait. One person job. Make sure to close them before letting the brake pedal up again. I typically do it more than once. I have only flushed the entire system this way once and it does take a while. A good opportunity to work on other things. The most important thing is to not let the fluid reservoir run out, so don't walk away for too long...
About the podcast, I agree it was very good info and there was more than one thing I'll definitely keep in mind going forward. One thing I thought was interesting given the conversations around load range C vs E was the sentiment that it is good that we're starting to move on to larger wheel sizes (from 15" to 16, 17) because then you can fit the big brake kits. If one has to choose between a softer ride or braking the choice should be easy, I suppose. It would be a good excuse to spend for really nice shocks, anyway.
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Watched the video. Neat idea. My one problem with it is that when you're pumping the brakes it will be sucking fluid in and out. I don't want the fluid that comes out, and all the gunk with it, to go back in again. But if you've already flushed out the crap and the fluid in there is good stuff this would be great.
The method I use is reliable but slow. I just pump the brake a bit, hold the pedal down with a wood block, open the bleed screws, and wait. One person job. Make sure to close them before letting the brake pedal up again. I typically do it more than once. I have only flushed the entire system this way once and it does take a while. A good opportunity to work on other things. The most important thing is to not let the fluid reservoir run out, so don't walk away for too long...
About the podcast, I agree it was very good info and there was more than one thing I'll definitely keep in mind going forward. One thing I thought was interesting given the conversations around load range C vs E was the sentiment that it is good that we're starting to move on to larger wheel sizes (from 15" to 16, 17) because then you can fit the big brake kits. If one has to choose between a softer ride or braking the choice should be easy, I suppose. It would be a good excuse to spend for really nice shocks, anyway.
I have bled brakes like this once or twice, the amount of dirty fluid drawn back in is pretty small as long as there is plenty of clean fluid in the master cylinder, unless I am missing something (which is entirely possible). The only other way I can think of that would not have any dirty fluid drawn in would be to have a suction pump at the bleeder and draw the fluid through the system (I think you would need to have the pedal depressed a bit for this to work?).........
Mobusaki
TJ Enthusiast
If you don't let up on the pedal while the bleeder is open you won't draw fluid back in. Press and hold the brake pedal down, open bleeder, let it drain until it starts to slow down, close the bleeder, pump the brakes, hold it down, bleed again. And so on until you're done. I could definitely be wrong but I don't think any fluid that drains out will get sucked back in this way.
I believe you are correct, but this requires two people and/or a device to hold the pedal down while you first loosen then tighten the bleeder. I think the OP was trying to do a one person method?......
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Again, a motiv power bleeder doesn’t require a second person and makes it a one man job. It pressurizes the system at the master cylinder.