Is it possible to remove grill but leave radiator so A/C lines don't have to be cracked open?

Vtx531

TJ Addict
Joined
Nov 17, 2020
Messages
1,661
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
The body mount bolt snapped off under my grill a while ago. So I think ultimately I need to pull the grill to fix it.

Is it possible to do this without removing ac lines and leave the radiator and condenser?

What needs to be removed besides the bolts on each side of the grill and the support rods that go across to the cowl?
 
I had my front clip off with the radiator out without taking out the A/C condenser. It wasn't difficult. I "hung" the A/C condenser from a pole that reached from one side to the other. I had to learn what a "well nut" was. You'll want to replace them too when you separate the condenser from the radiator.
 
Last edited:
Just a little update: I worked on this today and I was able to get the grill off.

I had to cut off all the well nut bolts for the AC condenser and two of the six radiator screws.

I was able to weld a nut onto the broken body mount bolt (good strong welds) but despite multiple tries, the bolt just kept twisting off lower and lower. I finally decided to drill it out and I'm in the middle of that. Had to stop for the day.

My front grill body mount on the frame will need repair too.

39263542-7DFE-4344-8710-6482ADF30CF3.jpeg


10CF8EAE-ABE3-49E9-9B52-4EBF08D9DA05.jpeg
 
Excellent work. I had the same issue with my radiator nuts. When I put it all back together I practically painted all surfaces with anti-seize. Are you checking all of the other body mounting locations?
 
Excellent work. I had the same issue with my radiator nuts. When I put it all back together I practically painted all surfaces with anti-seize. Are you checking all of the other body mounting locations?

Thanks glowell- As for the other body mounting locations - I have another thread where I am in the process of replacing the floors and torque boxes. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/getting-started-on-my-floor-pans-and-torque-boxes.55030/page-5

The rear mounts are also totally shot. The drivers side is rusted out to the point that it is completely gone and the pass side broke the nut and is freely spinning, I'll probably have to cut out and fabricate all new box and mounting areas back there which I've been putting off for a long time.

So, you are absolutely right about checking the other body mount locations. I will be slathering on antiseize like you and it should help that this thing doesn't see winter roads or mud anymore.

PS. Drilling out bolts sucks. I don't know if I don't have the patience or what but I am willing to listen to any tips or tricks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: glowell222
No luck with the drilling and tapping method. I got it drilled out and tapped but there wasn't enough material to allow the bolt tighten - it sort of stripped out.

Enough messing around - cut an access hole.

C2C9D33A-1C53-4BE5-9F8C-7F20FFF1A6E1.jpeg


Chiseled and ground down the welded nut. Now I can just use a regular nut and socket wrench! :)

B4B30AFF-D2C5-43DA-AF5A-B1C473F60BEA.jpeg
 
Just a little update: I worked on this today and I was able to get the grill off.

I had to cut off all the well nut bolts for the AC condenser and two of the six radiator screws.

I was able to weld a nut onto the broken body mount bolt (good strong welds) but despite multiple tries, the bolt just kept twisting off lower and lower. I finally decided to drill it out and I'm in the middle of that. Had to stop for the day.

My front grill body mount on the frame will need repair too.

View attachment 342193

View attachment 342194

I may be removing the grille soon too. So when you say you had to cut some bolts, was that just a rust or seizing issue? Anything else to know about how to remove the grille without removing the radiator or AC lines? (Although I may replace my non-Mopar radiator with a Mopar one while I'm at it.)
 
I may be removing the grille soon too. So when you say you had to cut some bolts, was that just a rust or seizing issue? Anything else to know about how to remove the grille without removing the radiator or AC lines? (Although I may replace my non-Mopar radiator with a Mopar one while I'm at it.)

I circled where the bolts hold the condenser in red. They are well nuts - like a rivet nut but the nut is just held with friction from the rubber part of the nut. They were siezed up and the design isn't really made to be removable as far as I can tell. I cut the heads off all four of those bolts. Some people might have had luck just pushing or pulling the rubber nut part through the hole but I didn't try that.

I circled where the bolts hold the radiator in yellow. I think one had the head rounded off and I can't remember why I had to cut a second one off. They were all pretty rusted.

If you have a rust free Jeep then you are probably fine with the rad bolts but I would imagine everyone having to cut or mangle the condensor bolts to get them removed.

17C9C8D6-705C-4768-ACBD-6E8FCA9B2FAD.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: SSTJ
I used a body bushing to line up the new piece on top of the old, clamped and tacked into place.

91ECE6A2-6AC2-441F-9016-D426B4A05070.jpeg


Cut through the old piece with 1/16" cutting wheel.

8C9CB337-9950-421A-A7B6-A6D02843B534.jpeg


Welded in new piece. I think I need a bigger gap because it didn't penetrate all the way through the joint very well. Probably need 1/8" gap since it is 1/8" thick? Instead of 1/16". Or bevel both sides. So I welded underneath too.

3143F8DC-1566-4414-8706-C59ED1E210E3.jpeg


Grinder and sander

20AD7003-6913-4958-9B0F-AA4E33997065.jpeg


It seems to be 1/16-1/8" off center - bummer! Not sure how that happened since I had everything lined up from the beginning. Maybe the original piece was a bit off center too but I don't think so. I hope everything lines up okay when I get the fenders and grill back on.
 
I used a body bushing to line up the new piece on top of the old, clamped and tacked into place.

View attachment 342996

Cut through the old piece with 1/16" cutting wheel.

View attachment 342997

Welded in new piece. I think I need a bigger gap because it didn't penetrate all the way through the joint very well. Probably need 1/8" gap since it is 1/8" thick? Instead of 1/16". Or bevel both sides. So I welded underneath too.

View attachment 342998

Grinder and sander

View attachment 342999

Maybe the original piece was a bit off center too but I don't think so.
I wouldn't bet money either way.
1657826115487.png


1657826165861.png
 
Having just gone through this exercise, I highly recommend replacing the U nuts that hold the radiator to the grille. 2 of mine were broken anyway, but when coupled with new 1/4-20 bolts, it went back together so much easier than it came apart. Also interesting note, one grille in my garage used metric bolts, the other used SAE. Whether or not that was from the factory or from a PO, I can't say.

1657832869783.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vtx531
Thanks I feel better now but I'm curious why they are not centered and find it hard to believe that would be a mistake. You would think they have some amazing jigs to manufacture the frames accurately. Or highly accurate punches or whatever.

Obviously, they weld the mounts on with a jig which locates it off of the body mount hole. Otherwise, you'd never get the bolt through the mount and into the tub.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vtx531
Having just gone through this exercise, I highly recommend replacing the U nuts that hold the radiator to the grille. 2 of mine were broken anyway, but when coupled with new 1/4-20 bolts, it went back together so much easier than it came apart. Also interesting note, one grille in my garage used metric bolts, the other used SAE. Whether or not that was from the factory or from a PO, I can't say.

View attachment 343023

Same for the fender brackets if removing the fenders! I had a couple of them break on the fenders during removal. I only replaced the broken ones. Then I had a couple more break on installation and had to cut those out. I could have saved a lot of hassle if I had just replaced them all originally.
 
Obviously, they weld the mounts on with a jig which locates it off of the body mount hole. Otherwise, you'd never get the bolt through the mount and into the tub.

So, I measured from the edge of my new hole to the frame rails and it is actually about 1/8" closer to the passenger side. :unsure: Even though it looks like it is offset to the driver side
 
So, I measured from the edge of my new hole to the frame rails and it is actually about 1/8" closer to the passenger side. :unsure: Even though it looks like it is offset to the driver side

Looks like this one on bringatrailer is offset to the driver side too

6980558C-55A0-4BC6-B6A4-E6FD87E1A1F5.png
 
Last edited:
I may be removing the grille soon too. So when you say you had to cut some bolts, was that just a rust or seizing issue? Anything else to know about how to remove the grille without removing the radiator or AC lines? (Although I may replace my non-Mopar radiator with a Mopar one while I'm at it.)

The ac condenser well nuts

5FC3814B-A169-4455-B7A1-92207C2A5E1C.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: SSTJ
Test fit was a success. I still need to get new well nuts and other hardware. Maybe a rubber plug for the hole I made too.

FD4652AC-2D1F-41F9-ABE5-4750D608BDEA.jpeg


586E9421-E39D-467A-8A7F-520EAC5303EE.jpeg