My experience with replacement made in China original style fenders (lots of pics)

Vtx531

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I always hear about issues with such and such brand fenders, blah blah blah, but never saw anything definitive.

I bought them on eBay $280 shipped for the pair. I believe the Mopar version is over $800 each.



They have some issues including the edges of all the metal are extremely sharp and cut up my hands.

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Here is the overall installed view. The tire is to keep the hood down for fitment. I couldn't reuse my old latches because the nuts were too rusted.
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Another view
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Both the fenders lean down to the outside. Maybe I can pull them up hard to straighten (and probbably cut myself on the razor metal edges)
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There is a weird gap above the plastic fender flares on both sides. Pass worse than driver. Maybe body filler in this little area?
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Further away view
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This is probably the biggest issue. The driver side is not flat. It bows outward at the rear of the wheel well.
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Where is bows outward
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Hole misaligned for vacuum canister. Maybe drill another hole and utilize the left side of the bracket?
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Again, where it is bowed out. Maybe a 2x4 and sledge hammer can put it back into place?
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The smaller gap at the front flare on the driver side.
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Missing screw holes for washer bottle.
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Crappy pinch/bending/stamping process
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This part was cut on the pass. side but not the driver side and scrapes the tub part. Will need to be cut.
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Just wanted to post so others know what to expect. I would love to hear others experiences. I sent a message to the seller since they guarantee fit and quality. Waiting for a response, I think I may need at least a new driver side because of that bow in the side.
 
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you need a small die grinder. most things require fitting, they may say bolt on but most know better.

that push out at the bottom could be fixed by elongating the holes in the well, that'll let you get that back in more, what's hittin the body seam grind it off. you could have a 1000$ fender and it still needs fit.

they lean give um a jerk or apply steady pressure wit a jack and board.
 
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you need a small die grinder. most things require fitting, they may say bolt on but most know better.

that push out at the bottom could be fixed by elongating the holes in the well, that'll let you get that back in more, what's hittin the body seam grind it off. you could have a 1000$ fender and it still needs fit.

I think the whole thing is tweaked, like a box that is built crooked and not square. I'll take the bolts out of the fender support bracket and see if I can't push it over then elongate the holes if it works. Thanks for the idea.
 
I think the whole thing is tweaked, like a box that is built crooked and not square. I'll take the bolts out of the fender support bracket and see if I can't push it over then elongate the holes if it works. Thanks for the idea.

pulling or pushing the decks level may tweek something too. start with what's most noticeable.
 
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Good info in this thread. I need to replace mine aswell. Certainly not great quality, but I think you will get them tweaked a little and be reasonably happy in the end hopefully.
 
I've had very similar experience with Brazilian stamped 70s-80s VW sheetmetal and foreign stamped panels for US makes as well . Wanting to save a bit of cash and knowingly buy import over OEM, you kinda get what you get.

Mopar ones though expensive are most likely stamped on Mopar tooling, or a manufacturer that got the tool design from Mopar. Chinas (everyone not OEM) stamping dies are reverse engineered off of good samples or used up garbage OEM tooling they have acquired. And sometimes even stamped and formed on retired tooling that has gone out of spec.

And no manufacturer of stamped sheetmetal bodyparts deburrs anything, because that costs money. Be careful.

Its got some quirks. But if its better than what you had, I would just be thankful it for the fact it was available and can be made good with some massaging 🤷‍♂️
 
Looking at your floor pan and torque box thread, the china stuff is way better than what you started with :D
 
Looking at your floor pan and torque box thread, the china stuff is way better than what you started with :D

Ha - yes

They offered return and refund. I'll just keep it and make it work.

I was able to get the bow mostly out. The fenders drooping to the side is less doable because of the inner brace that goes perpendicular. It will be okay. Need to deburr it myself so I don't cut off a finger when I'm doing a car wash later on 👆
 

Any chance you could ask your buddy to send me some pics of these key areas of the carparts.com fenders? Maybe I'll return these and order those. The pics on that website look pretty similar to mine when I zoom in to the details.

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Ya just pull it across the sharp edge on the sheet metal and it cuts it off. But if you have the grinder and rolocs that works too 😁
 
Any chance you could ask your buddy to send me some pics of these key areas of the carparts.com fenders? Maybe I'll return these and order those. The pics on that website look pretty similar to mine when I zoom in to the details.

View attachment 344233

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i'll just call the pics 1,2,3 in order.
1 looks like the front end is low. that 1/4" off the top of the fender you have a few inches back is where that should also be and it would cover that, loose the front end of the flare and see how much it'll push up. if it won't i'd be lookin at what's holes need to be elongated to allow that.

2. grind it off. mark it about 1/8" back off the touch and grind or trim it away.

3. maybe a wood block or aluminum bar and a hammer and massage it to look as good as it can be.
 
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i'll just call the pics 1,2,3 in order.
1 looks like the front end is low. that 1/4" off the top of the fender you have a few inches back is where that should also be and it would cover that, loose the front end of the flare and see how much it'll push up. if it won't i'd be lookin at what's holes need to be elongated to allow that.

2. grind it off. mark it about 1/8" back off the touch and grind or trim it away.

3. maybe a wood block or aluminum bar and a hammer and massage it to look as good as it can be.

1. I see what you mean about the flare looking lower at the front. It have it loose in there now just with the two big plastic locating studs. Maybe I can pull the fender flare up while tightening down the flare hardware.

2. Yep

3. It's hidden when the hood is closed so I'll just leave it as is. I was just posting to illustrate the low quality compared to OEM.

Thanks for the response!
 
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1. Cant be moved easily - The locating holes are pressed like a dimple die so it can't really be elongated plus all the other holes would be misaligned. Looks like I'll have to go with adding some welds and grinding to fill the gap. grrrrrr