Why does my steering suck with Rough Country 4 inch lift?

Jmr17320

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 30, 2019
Messages
177
Location
Gettysburg PA
First I did not select the RC 4” lift. It came on the Jeep when I bought it. It does have the drop pitman arm and it has the drop bracket for the track bar. I installed the ZJ upgrade steering components, did a garage alignment (3/16” farther apart in rear), and see no slop when doing a left/right giggle.

BUT this thing steers very “squirrelly” and wants to be left/right all over the lane width.

I double checked the alignment but feel I need to triple check. I also set torqued my CA arms and steering components w tires on the ground.

Is a stock DPA and adjustable track bar really what I need?

0288D8B8-01C8-477E-B62E-873249F48C7F.jpeg
 
First I did not select the RC 4” lift. It came on the Jeep when I bought it. It does have the drop pitman arm and it has the drop bracket for the track bar. I installed the ZJ upgrade steering components, did a garage alignment (3/16” farther apart in rear), and see no slop when doing a left/right giggle.

BUT this thing steers very “squirrelly” and wants to be left/right all over the lane width.

I double checked the alignment but feel I need to triple check. I also set torqued my CA arms and steering components w tires on the ground.

Is a stock DPA and adjustable track bar really what I need?

View attachment 345798

First nice looking Jeep!!!!

How much PSI are you running in your tires?

I didn't have a dropped track bar bracket, but I did have a dropped pitman arm. I ditched the DPA for a stock one and run my 33's at 26psi. It's not squirrely anymore.
 
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When I bought my Jeep it had that same Rough Country crap on it too . It was a real handful to drive on the highway . I got rid of the dropped track bar bracket, dropped pitman arm , drag link , and tie rod . Installed a Rock Jock track bar , CurrectLync steering , and stock Mopar pittman arm . It drives very nice on the highway now .
 
You say you checked toe, what about your caster? Was it handling like that before the steering upgrade?
 
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I also bought mine with RC lift with bracket and dropped pitman arm. That was very first thing I swapped. I have some control arm on the way to replace the RC ones. I plan on leaving the coils only.I also replaced the shocks. And every RC item I replaced , my Jeep drove better.
 
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Everything stated above plus that antirock sways a bit at least mine and most people I know that run one does. Doesn't bother me much but it definitely is a bit looser than stock.
 
First I did not select the RC 4” lift. It came on the Jeep when I bought it. It does have the drop pitman arm and it has the drop bracket for the track bar. I installed the ZJ upgrade steering components, did a garage alignment (3/16” farther apart in rear), and see no slop when doing a left/right giggle.

BUT this thing steers very “squirrelly” and wants to be left/right all over the lane width.

I double checked the alignment but feel I need to triple check. I also set torqued my CA arms and steering components w tires on the ground.

Is a stock DPA and adjustable track bar really what I need?

View attachment 345798

I have a 2005 when we got it in 2016, it ended up driving all over, rear end shook. Bump steer you name it.

1. got rid of Drop Pitman took that all back DJ stock.
2. Got zJ steering.
3. Double Adjustable Control arms and dialed in Caster
4. Home toe in alignment.
5. Sway bar bushings
6. Front Track Bar and rear track bar replaced.

75 on the highway in 33’s and now 35’s and it drives itself. I can drive one finger, don’t, I have, but don’t .
 
I shouldn’t be clear, that’s what I did, you need to identify what’s wrong. Start at the most likely, dry steer test, hard, on the ground, and see if stuff is loose.

In general, the DPA is a bad idea, and unnecessary at 4”.
 
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First I did not select the RC 4” lift. It came on the Jeep when I bought it. It does have the drop pitman arm and it has the drop bracket for the track bar. I installed the ZJ upgrade steering components, did a garage alignment (3/16” farther apart in rear), and see no slop when doing a left/right giggle.

BUT this thing steers very “squirrelly” and wants to be left/right all over the lane width.

I double checked the alignment but feel I need to triple check. I also set torqued my CA arms and steering components w tires on the ground.

Is a stock DPA and adjustable track bar really what I need?

View attachment 345798

Get rid of the DPA and get an adjustable front TB. Align everything again. Drop air pressure to 26psi. Report back.
 
I came across this today while researching a local 4x4 shop and thought it was pretty interesting.

https://www.bullrun4x4.com/post/why-won-t-you-install-my-rough-country-parts

They are a bit confused about the pitman backing the nut off, it isn't doing that. It is soft steel not forged correctly so the splines wear and the arm moves up on them which makes the nut appear to have loosened. It is loose but not due to it being moved but instead no longer keeping the pitman in place.
 
They are a bit confused about the pitman backing the nut off, it isn't doing that. It is soft steel not forged correctly so the splines wear and the arm moves up on them which makes the nut appear to have loosened. It is loose but not due to it being moved but instead no longer keeping the pitman in place.

Is your new avatar your new Black Magic logo? I think you know where this is going. I have money for new BM stuff. I use EVERYTHING you have sent me.
p.s.
I'm curious and I know there's NO free shipping.
 
They are a bit confused about the pitman backing the nut off, it isn't doing that. It is soft steel not forged correctly so the splines wear and the arm moves up on them which makes the nut appear to have loosened. It is loose but not due to it being moved but instead no longer keeping the pitman in place.
Makes sense, and The top connection didn’t look so far down it wouldn’t be catching splines.

In your experience, does that grind down the splines coming out of the box, so both need replacing? Or just a the pitman arm?
 
Is your new avatar your new Black Magic logo?
Yes and no. It is for the recovery gear I have designed and am rescuing from being out of production.
I think you know where this is going.
With you? I'd never venture even a remotely educated guess as to where anything you say is going other than some place fully not expected.
I have money for new BM stuff.
Yep, I was correct.
I use EVERYTHING you have sent me.
Likely true but I'll bet this has never once occurred to even you and this is purely for the sake of education, no judgements. I get a call from someone installing our pads on the front. "Hey, is that stuff in the tube to stop the brakes from squealing?" I'm thinking hard and fast trying to figure out if he called the wrong guy, found something on the bench that was next to our stuff when he opened the package, or what. Then it dawns on me and I ask him if the tube was in a bag with a business card. "Yeah, that's it". No, sorry, that is not anti-squeal, that is lip balm, please don't use it on the brake pads.
p.s.
I'm curious and I know there's NO free shipping.
Better now?
 
Makes sense, and The top connection didn’t look so far down it wouldn’t be catching splines.

In your experience, does that grind down the splines coming out of the box, so both need replacing? Or just a the pitman arm?

Never seen the splines worn. I also could be slightly wrong on why the splines move up and it could be soft steel and poor fitment of the spline interface. Maybe, but we see a bunch of drop pitman arms that the owners say they have tightened several times until they move up high enough that the nut shoulders out and stops.

I'd point that shop to the XJ stock pitman arms which are a lot more drop than a TJ and rarely have issues.
 
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Never seen the splines worn. I also could be slightly wrong on why the splines move up and it could be soft steel and poor fitment of the spline interface. Maybe, but we see a bunch of drop pitman arms that the owners say they have tightened several times until the move up high enough that the nut shoulders out and stops.

I'd point that shop to the XJ stock pitman arms which are a lot more drop than a TJ and rarely have issues.

So xj pitman arm differs from TJ? We’ll I need to figure out if mine I swapped in was an xj or TJ arm I grabbed out of my parts pile. How much difference we talking about?