Sputtering & popping when starting after replacing distributor

Garza33

Garza33

New Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Mission, TX
Hello guys I wanted to reach out to you all in hopes for some help; I have a 99 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 4.0 automatic. I had the distributor replaced and since then it’s been turning on like crap. I followed all the steps in order replace the distributor myself through videos I’ve seen; the distributor is installed correctly and the firing order is good.
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As I turn the key it tries to start but begins to sputter & pop and won’t turn on. After a few attempts, it’ll start normally. I had codes checked and it threw the crank and cam sensors. In this particular Jeep, the cam sensor is in the distributor, which is the distributor pickup. Ive replaced both and still does the same. Check engine light turned right back on. Could it be the timing chain that skipped? Or could it be a ECM Issue? Thanks in advance!
 
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Just for grins, do this tomorrow morning. Not now, in the morning after it sits all night. Turn the ignition switch on-off-on 10-12 times in a row and only after that then turn it to Start and see what happens.

Pause 2 seconds each time the key is in the On position during that sequence before the first attempt to start it. Same symptoms or does it start?
 
I’ve done that and it actually starts normal; temporarily at least. It’s never done that before though... maybe fuel pump giving out? I’m at my wits end with this.
 
Zukarika said:
Hey, I’m having the same issue. What did you find to be the fix?
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Welcome to the TJ forum.

If you are experiencing difficult or long starts and cycling the ignition switch helps that generally points to a failing fuel delivery. Let us know what's going on, also fill in you Jeep info so others can help.
 
TJ4Jim said:
Welcome to the TJ forum.

If you are experiencing difficult or long starts and cycling the ignition switch helps that generally points to a failing fuel delivery. Let us know what's going on, also fill in you Jeep info so others can help.
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I appreciate the response.I filled out my information and I hope this information helps.

So I have my doubts it’s a fuel related issue as I replaced my fuel pump only 3 months ago and it has been running fine. I had just replaced the distributor for a squeal when the Jeep was at higher RPM and I retimed it when I installed the distributor. I don’t think it’s a timing issue either because once it does start it runs like normal.
 
Zukarika said:
I appreciate the response.I filled out my information and I hope this information helps.

So I have my doubts it’s a fuel related issue as I replaced my fuel pump only 3 months ago and it has been running fine. I had just replaced the distributor for a squeal when the Jeep was at higher RPM and I retimed it when I installed the distributor. I don’t think it’s a timing issue either because once it does start it runs like normal.
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Well after going over my work from the other night I found the issue. My cylinder 1 spark plug was not torqued properly so it must not have been building good enough pressure for proper ignition. Guess I should start checking for human error before thinking something broke
 
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Zukarika said:
Well after going over my work from the other night I found the issue. My cylinder 1 spark plug was not torqued properly so it must not have been building good enough pressure for proper ignition. Guess I should start checking for human error before thinking something broke
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I take that back too. On my way back home she died on me with no squeal, squeak, clangs, or bangs. It must have been a fluke occurrence that it started first time after fucking with my spark plug. I tried cycling my key a few times because when it dies like that normally it is a fuel issue but she still didn’t want to start after that. Once I got it running again it ran fine the last half my way home.
 
Zukarika said:
I take that back too. On my way back home she died on me with no squeal, squeak, clangs, or bangs. It must have been a fluke occurrence that it started first time after fucking with my spark plug. I tried cycling my key a few times because when it dies like that normally it is a fuel issue but she still didn’t want to start after that. Once I got it running again it ran fine the last half my way home.
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What if anything happens when it shuts down, are there any similar symptoms and what are you doing to get her started again.
 
Consider the issues started directly after installing a different dist. Id bet you have the dist off a tooth. Ive done many dist R&R's and swore I had it right on mine but I missed a tooth. It fires up sometimes and other times no go. Had so,so power sometimes but finally petered out at the gas stating. Just a thought to you might try to eliminate any timing issues.
 
TJ4Jim said:
What if anything happens when it shuts down, are there any similar symptoms and what are you doing to get her started again.
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So I have been working on it in the shop for a few days now and have got it to start fine now but I am getting a check engine light for code P1391. Replaced my crankshaft positioning sensor and put my old cam shaft positioning sensor back in and the code persists. All that happens now is it runs and idles poorly. Any ideas?
 
Zukarika said:
So I have been working on it in the shop for a few days now and have got it to start fine now but I am getting a check engine light for code P1391. Replaced my crankshaft positioning sensor and put my old cam shaft positioning sensor back in and the code persists. All that happens now is it runs and idles poorly. Any ideas?
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Are you using oem crank and cam sensors (mopar, ntk ngk) at this point, the only other is the napa Echlin that seems to be ok.
 
TJ4Jim said:
Are you using oem crank and cam sensors (mopar, ntk ngk) at this point, the only other is the napa Echlin that seems to be ok.
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I am using a mopar cam sensor because I had time to order it but my crank sensor is Duralast. Guess I should order a mopar one and see if that changes anything?
 
Zukarika said:
I am using a mopar cam sensor because I had time to order it but my crank sensor is Duralast. Guess I should order a mopar one and see if that changes anything?
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Duralast rarely perform out of the box but local napa's usually have the Echlin brand, mine is 7 years now so they do work.
 
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