It's like getting a new pair of glasses. Things that weren't clear before are in perfect focus now.
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Help with the SwayLOC
- Thread starter Plumber1
- Start date
It's like getting a new pair of glasses. Things that weren't clear before are in perfect focus now.
Except that he won't get glasses because it is an impossibility that he is the shit bag. Those are the rules. That is how this works.
The holes in the swaybar arms have to be a very tight fit. Don't worry about installing the small bar inside the big bar until both arms are on the big bar. Use a short point cold chisel to drive in the split to open it up. Once both arms are on the big bar, then you can use them with the pinch bolts tightened to hold it in place to push the small bar into the left side after opening the split for it.
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Careful there, a lot of whether or not the AR can be great on the street has to do with how well one's shocks are set up.
I was about to say that that isn't really what I said and then it dawned on me that I'd never really given them more than a cursory glance, so you may very well be correct. I didn't say specifically not to follow the instructions, I just explained how to solve the problem.
I'm surprised by the bolded bit, but I think Blaine commented on the reason you might say that.
The SL is one of my favorite mods for daily driving, there's little reason I'd recommend it for anyone that mostly has a trail rig. This thread reminds me that I need to move mine to the firmest setting since there's no reason for anything less. And to finally send my shocks out to get tuned in the off season to fix my awful ride.
Shocks do play a significant role in how well the AR works on the street. The part I find the most interesting is how the SL in the stiff setting is nicer on pavement than the factory bar. It has to do with the length of the arms. The longer arms on the SL removes a lot of the initial harshness from the road compared stock, even though the SL is stiffer than stock.
Any reason to paint the sway bars before install? No sure what type of steel they are made of, and factory bars are painted...
No reason whatsoever since that would do two things. Make it very difficult to slide the bars through and ignore the advantage of the zinc plating on them.
The instructions way overcomplicate the install. They are also poorly written. At one step they begin telling you what to do. Then they say, “before this do …..and then the figure shows a pic with the small inner arm installed which is described in a later step. There’s definitely a place for someone with technical writing skills and “know how.”
I’m surprised to see we are doxing members on here. Let alone posting a full on family photo of people who are not in the forum.
I understand we all have our arguments and “internet fights” but this is pushing the envelope in my opinion.
We are on this forum for a reason, jeeps. And personally, the awesome memes.
C’mon guys. I know you are better than this.
There’s a reason it was called the Wild West. They needed women to tame it.
Amazing what difference a good sandwich can make.
Are the arms on the SwayLoc supposed to be parallel so the links are the same length? I’m assuming so since there are no splines and it is what it is, but my links are 9.25” and 10” respectively nkw after second adjustment.
Reason I ask is on two separate wheeling trips I disconnected at the trailhead and afterward my passenger side swaybar bracket was bent out toward the passenger tire. Granted, one of those trips I didn’t get out after a few minutes to make sure it disconnected, but it was of course later on on the day.
So I took both links off and made sure they were correct length (no binding at ride height on flat ground) and actually had to shorten one side and then put it back on and then check the other side and actually shorten it a little bit to get them just right. But now I’ve done this twice and both times it bent that bracket.
Reason I ask is on two separate wheeling trips I disconnected at the trailhead and afterward my passenger side swaybar bracket was bent out toward the passenger tire. Granted, one of those trips I didn’t get out after a few minutes to make sure it disconnected, but it was of course later on on the day.
So I took both links off and made sure they were correct length (no binding at ride height on flat ground) and actually had to shorten one side and then put it back on and then check the other side and actually shorten it a little bit to get them just right. But now I’ve done this twice and both times it bent that bracket.
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