Rear shocks not as expected

carntsen

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Jul 18, 2022
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Barrie, ON
Hi All,
I have a 2006 TJ 4.0 6cyl, and am in the process of replacing my shocks.
The upper connection on the rear shocks are not as expected. I am pausing here to ensure I have the right shocks for the install.

In the many videos watched (and on the new Rancho 5000X shocks, there is a bar with fork ends that bolts upwards into the frame.
My Jeep does not have that. Instead there is bracket hanging down that allows a single bolt to pass through the shock, very similar to how the bottom attaches.

The previous owner installed a 4" suspension lift. Maybe a skyJacker kit, (The current shocks are Skyjacker anyways). Is this bracket part of the suspension lift? or did different TJ years/models mount differently?. The bracket reduces the shock length by about and Inch.

I attached a photo showing the Top mount. If proceeding, I assume I need to reuse the bolt and any metal bushing that might be inside the rubber. I don't want to go too far in case I need to return the Rancho Shocks

ShockTop.JPG
 
I don't know much about later models, but I was under the impression that they all had the same mounting pattern. My guess is that the bracket you've shown is an add-on by a previous owner. Perhaps after snapping the upper shock bolts, which is a common problem when replacing the rear shocks.

Eager to see what others say. I'm sure you'll get an answer soon.
 
The shocks go where they go. And that isn't a factory exhaust.
 
So if the OP has a bar pin eliminator, what are his options? Remove it and try to install the shocks as they're intended to be installed, or mount them to the bar pin eliminator?

And yes, that's not a factory exhaust, so that would explain why it's so close to the shocks.
 
Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T3ZMLDX/?tag=wranglerorg-20

You might ask, "Why?" The bolts that connect the shocks to the upper mount are notorious for rusting and breaking. Mine are broken. I have a set of bar pin eliminators on my bench awaiting installation; hopefully this week. The idea is, once you are able to get the broken bolts finally out of the attachment point, you replace them with the bar pin eliminator. Having its critical component a) horizontally mounted and b) being much larger and stronger than the stock bolts, it should make future replacement much easier and less of an adventure in rusty bolt removal. Some folks are critical of these, as they reduce the shock travel by one inch. Mine is a beach Jeep (Padre Island), so I don't care that much about an inch of shock travel. To each his own.
 
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Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T3ZMLDX/?tag=wranglerorg-20

You might ask, "Why?" The bolts that connect the shocks to the upper mount are notorious for rusting and breaking. Mine are broken. I have a set of bar pin eliminators on my bench awaiting installation; hopefully this week. The idea is, once you are able to get the broken bolts finally out of the attachment point, you replace them with the bar pin eliminator. Having its critical component a) horizontally mounted and b) being much larger and stronger than the stock bolts, it should make future replacement much easier and less of an adventure in rusty bolt removal. Some folks are critical of these, as they reduce the shock travel by one inch. Mine is a beach Jeep (Padre Island), so I don't care that much about an inch of shock travel. To each his own.

We still ask why because BPEs reduces valuable shock travel. And putting them on the rear reduces more valuable shock than if they go up front. It's a stupid modification.
 
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Me again...
The new Rancho shocks come with the mounting bar through the upper bushing, I figured I could remove it and insert a regular sleeve so I could install with the existing Bar pin eliminator. I am having no luck getting it out and now worried I will damage the shocks. Should I be able to get this out as I hoped? if do how?

If not, my next option it to remove the bar pin eliminator and install the traditional way. My concern here is that the Eliminator is mounted with nuts on studs coming down from the frame (maybe a bolt passed downwards). Is this original? I thought bolts went upwards into a nut welded in the frame, I would assume if these studs have the strength to hold the shock if the eliminator is bolted to it.

Another option is to swap the Rancho shocks out for one with a single bolt mount like the bottom, that will work with the Eliminator. No idea if Rancho makes such a shock or how i would go about cross-referencing it .

I should add, this Jeep rarely sees any any offroad action. It is a daily driver. Any advice is appreciated. I gotta get this thing back on the road quickly.
 
I feel like I am loosing the battle here....

I attempted to remove the BPE, I got far enough to confirm the holes had been drilled out and it is using bolts facing downwards. If I continue removing I have nothing to bolt the shock to. Unlikely I could fully remove them without dropping the gas tank. .. Abort.

I found the Rancho catalog with specs. New shock is a RS55256 with LS37 on the bottom and XP12 on top. This is for a 2006 TJ with a 4" lift. I can find nothing in the catalog with LS37(or LS24) on both ends that is close the length needed .... Abort? or switch brands? (Fronts are already installed)

I saw postings online that said i can remove the bar pin in a vice after cutting off one end. Gave it a try on 1 shock, no good the pin wont budge like its fused to the rubber. Ended up pulling out the bushing. Now I either need new bushings, or different shocks. tried looking for bushing and am lost in a sea of numbers.

I am on day 5 of what was though to be an half day job. I have no vehicle to drive and am getting desperate.
Any help is appreciated.
 
Use a press. The bar pin is not fused. It's easier to get aftermarket bushings. You'll need to get steel sleeves as well and then use a press to get it together. Using dish soap to help them slide together is your best option.
 
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I feel like I am loosing the battle here....

I attempted to remove the BPE, I got far enough to confirm the holes had been drilled out and it is using bolts facing downwards. If I continue removing I have nothing to bolt the shock to. Unlikely I could fully remove them without dropping the gas tank. .. Abort.

I found the Rancho catalog with specs. New shock is a RS55256 with LS37 on the bottom and XP12 on top. This is for a 2006 TJ with a 4" lift. I can find nothing in the catalog with LS37(or LS24) on both ends that is close the length needed .... Abort? or switch brands? (Fronts are already installed)

I saw postings online that said i can remove the bar pin in a vice after cutting off one end. Gave it a try on 1 shock, no good the pin wont budge like its fused to the rubber. Ended up pulling out the bushing. Now I either need new bushings, or different shocks. tried looking for bushing and am lost in a sea of numbers.

I am on day 5 of what was though to be an half day job. I have no vehicle to drive and am getting desperate.
Any help is appreciated.

I'd yank the BPE and plan on new hardware to bolt the shocks in, it's likely you could use what is holding the BPEs in. No need to overcomplicate it, push the pin and bushing back in as a unit.
 
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Rasband - Following instructions found online I had already cut an end off the bar pin, so too late for your suggestion unless I replace the shock.

Hosejockey61 - I have found what I believe to be the correct size bushings. Energy Suspension 9.8116R 5/8x1 7/16. I dont have a shop press, so i just ordered a Ball joint press.... Amazon to the rescue. I will try to remove the pin from the second shock using the press and soap. However, I assume I am changing both bushings now anyways.
 
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Rasband - Following instructions found online I had already cut an end off the bar pin, so too late for your suggestion unless I replace the shock.

Hosejockey61 - I have found what I believe to be the correct size bushings. Energy Suspension 9.8116R 5/8x1 7/16. I dont have a shop press, so i just ordered a Ball joint press.... Amazon to the rescue. I will try to remove the pin from the second shock using the press and soap. However, I assume I am changing both bushings now anyways.

You don't need soap to remove them, you need it to put it back together. Synergy is what I have used in the past.
 
As for the exhaust. Bend the hangers in the system to pull the pipe off the shocks. I had the same issue after a tummy tuck. An exhaust shop could cut and reweld it if there isn't enough play in the hangers.

That far back you could BFH clearance it too.