Poor Ride Quality

You mean that shitty change holder you drilled 2 holes in a perfectly good bezel for?

This has actually been far more useful than the $20 I spent on it. There’s no other place in the Jeep for my phone as it doesn’t fit in the cup holders and I don’t have a mount anywhere. With the GF and all her stuff you gotta put it somewhere lol
 
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It came recommended from Dave Kishpaugh at Jeep West in Oregon, great dude. It is a Rough Country (best clearance) track bar with larger bushings pressed in, larger 9/16ths holes and bolts on both the bracket and axle ends. The factory one mounts in the same position, just rotated 90 degrees. We are talking a possible 1/8-1/4" this is lowered now. Also this harshness was present with a factory style mounting Currie Bar
This has actually been far more useful than the $20 I spend on it. There’s no other place in the Jeep for my phone as it doesn’t fit in the cup holders and I don’t have a mount anywhere. With the GF and all her stuff you gotta put it somewhere lol

Get a Jeep purse dude!😂

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I replaced the shocks, and RUBBER body mounts. I have to say, that really smoothed the ride out,

My body mounts were recently replaced and repaired after being totally rusted out and hardly attached. I'm really looking forward to see how nice of an improvement I get when it get's back on the road.
 
Is there any way to tighten this up/make it quit rattling? I believe the hinges are worn. May just have to replace it with a MoRyde

The snubbers aren't doing much to stop the tire from shaking.
 
I'm guessing based on your flawed descriptions. I don't know how close I am.

Here are some videos from today showing the steering issue. This is done with hand off the wheel (except for corrections) at various speeds. You can see the wheel rock back and forth. This is magnified over larger divots. This is also felt while the wheel is held
 
Here are some invisible videos from today showing the steering issue. This is done with hand off the wheel (except for corrections) at various speeds. You can see the wheel rock back and forth. This is magnified over larger divots. This is also felt while the wheel is held

FIFY
 
Here are some videos from today showing the steering issue. This is done with hand off the wheel (except for corrections) at various speeds. You can see the wheel rock back and forth. This is magnified over larger divots. This is also felt while the wheel is held

 
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You would benefit greatly from a power steering test. Get some light, get under the front of the rig, have someone start it up and turn the steering wheel back and forth from about 11-1 fairly rapidly.

You watch and touch every joint that moves when that is happening. Put a thumb on the ball joint or inner C, forefinger goes on the other part that is moving. Do that as well for the rest of the joints. Check the TRE's and make sure the body isn't popping up and down on the pin. Look and feel for any movement that should not be there. Look at the joint in the axle side trackbar and watch how far it moves relative to the bolt. Check all the threaded connections with jam nuts, they generally wiggle to show they are loose.

When done watch the input shaft on the steering gear. The rotational input from it should very closely match the output rotation of the sector shaft where the pitman bolts on.

If it doesn't, then you need a new gear. A simple test is to finish ruining the steering gear by adjusting the lash tighter at the adjuster. If that tightens up the steering and slows down some of the bad habits that give you the impression of diminished ride quality, then it really is time for a new steering gear.

I don't know that I have any left but I can check to see if I have a lower mileage stock replacement if you want to pay shipping to tide you over and test if that was it before you jump into the steering parts black hole and spend a small fortune.

@Chris - might want to add this to resource section with the absolute gold information in this post.
 
You would benefit greatly from a power steering test. Get some light, get under the front of the rig, have someone start it up and turn the steering wheel back and forth from about 11-1 fairly rapidly.

You watch and touch every joint that moves when that is happening. Put a thumb on the ball joint or inner C, forefinger goes on the other part that is moving. Do that as well for the rest of the joints. Check the TRE's and make sure the body isn't popping up and down on the pin. Look and feel for any movement that should not be there. Look at the joint in the axle side trackbar and watch how far it moves relative to the bolt. Check all the threaded connections with jam nuts, they generally wiggle to show they are loose.

When done watch the input shaft on the steering gear. The rotational input from it should very closely match the output rotation of the sector shaft where the pitman bolts on.

If it doesn't, then you need a new gear. A simple test is to finish ruining the steering gear by adjusting the lash tighter at the adjuster. If that tightens up the steering and slows down some of the bad habits that give you the impression of diminished ride quality, then it really is time for a new steering gear.

I don't know that I have any left but I can check to see if I have a lower mileage stock replacement if you want to pay shipping to tide you over and test if that was it before you jump into the steering parts black hole and spend a small fortune.
Well, that’ll do it. It looks like the bolt just isn’t tight enough. Steering shaft looks decent though (second video)
 

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Well, that’ll do it. It looks like the bolt just isn’t tight enough. Steering shaft looks decent though (second video)

You need to have the helper turn just a little bit more both ways to really load up the joints to show any deficiencies. Now you know that this is the test you should have started with.