NTK sensors vs Mopar

I’ve had 3 different orders for a Mopar crank sensor canceled due to back order. Finally got one off of eBay but item was first ordered from a distributor so stock could be hit or miss. As someone mentioned, mopar does appear to be making these again.

Is there a particular part number I'm looking for? I was looking for 56027865AB, but there seem to be others which are compatible for my '99 Cherokee. Sorry, wrong forum. It looks like this part is compatible among a range of years, just not sure where/how to find that and confirm
EDIT: eBay has a used one for $55 and Napa has a Standard Ignition part I decided to go with while I wait for the local Jeep dealership to get a Mopar in on backorder. Fingers crossed. Need a reliable vehicle otherwise, I would have waited for the backordered part to arrive. Thanks for your help. I'm feeling good about the aftermarket NTK CPS being junk.
 
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I think I went through like three of the NTK sensors before I found one that actually worked for a decent amount of time. I actually had better luck with an Autozone house brand sensor. That said, now that the Mopar sensors are available again, I went ahead and ordered one of those, which works flawlessly.

I also had a similar issue recently with Cam-Crank correlation, but that was fixed by aligning the OPDA position with the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer.

If you look on RockAuto for the NTK Cam Shaft Sensor, it does state that a "Relearn Process may be required. Consult your Service Manual".
 
If you look on RockAuto for the NTK Cam Shaft Sensor, it does state that a "Relearn Process may be required. Consult your Service Manual".

Did that with zero effect. I do think at some point the camshaft synchronizer got misclocked, but I'm pretty sure that happened long after my sensor issues. Resetting the sychronizer position at TDC on the harmonic balancer solved that issue.

For me, the sensor issues were either it worked perfectly or horribly. It would usually go into limp mode until the sensor was swapped. Once I had the Mopar sensor installed, I had no issues until after replacing my oil pump, in which I'm pretty sure I misclocked the OPDA a fair amount. Reclocking it fixed that issue without having to replace the sensor.
 
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Did that with zero effect. I do think at some point the camshaft synchronizer got misclocked, but I'm pretty sure that happened long after my sensor issues. Resetting the sychronizer position at TDC on the harmonic balancer solved that issue.

For me, the sensor issues were either it worked perfectly or horribly. It would usually go into limp mode until the sensor was swapped. Once I had the Mopar sensor installed, I had no issues until after replacing my oil pump, in which I'm pretty sure I misclocked the OPDA a fair amount. Reclocking it fixed that issue without having to replace the sensor.

You did it with a DRB III Scan Tool?
 
Well, I resolved my issue. She's idling and running just fine :)
I replaced my NTK CPS with a Standard Ignition CPS while I waited for a Mopar one from a local dealership. I expected that to work, but I was getting the same misfiring issue as before. Feeling defeated, I checked all connections and moved on to a suggestion originally made in the cherokeeforum chat, clean the throttle body and IAC. Took that apart, cleaned, and reassembled and she's purring like a kitten. Feeling good. Now I've got a spare CPS! Thanks for the help!

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Well, I resolved my issue. She's idling and running just fine :)
I replaced my NTK CPS with a Standard Ignition CPS while I waited for a Mopar one from a local dealership. I expected that to work, but I was getting the same misfiring issue as before. Feeling defeated, I checked all connections and moved on to a suggestion originally made in the cherokeeforum chat, clean the throttle body and IAC. Took that apart, cleaned, and reassembled and she's purring like a kitten. Feeling good. Now I've got a spare CPS! Thanks for the help!

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That was one dirty throttle body. How many miles on it?
 
What is this? I've not heard of it before.

It's different between the 2005-6 and the earlier JTEC Jeeps. The earlier ones you just set the timing. There is only one thing and that's the relationship between the camshaft and crankshaft sensor. You go to a screen on the DRB and zero it out by rotating the OPDA. The newer NGC3 has two timings or values stored in the PCM, the factory one and and a learned value and the re-learn is more complicated. It resets the factory offset. I don't really know how the newer ones are supposed to be set, the only one I've worked on seemed to have some other issues so it never seemed happy even after setting the timing.
 
It's different between the 2005-6 and the earlier JTEC Jeeps. The earlier ones you just set the timing. There is only one thing and that's the relationship between the camshaft and crankshaft sensor. You go to a screen on the DRB and zero it out by rotating the OPDA. The newer NGC3 has two timings or values stored in the PCM, the factory one and and a learned value and the re-learn is more complicated. It resets the factory offset. I don't really know how the newer ones are supposed to be set, the only one I've worked on seemed to have some other issues so it never seemed happy even after setting the timing.

Thank You. The Muddog is a 2002, so I'll not worry about it.
 
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On my 2004, I needed to do a full ECM reset (erase fuel maps, etc) before CELs would stay away. I do the reset whenever I change a sensor that influences timing, mixture, etc.
 
You have access to a DRB III unit?
I don't. I was as careful as I could be when I installed the new OPDA such that it was in the same position as the original. My understanding is that if it's close enough (whatever that means 🤷‍♂️), ECM will be able to sync up the timing with the crank sensor. In my case, I still had to do a full reset to get rid of the CEL (no drivability issues).

Until @pagrey mentioned that the 2005-2006 requires the DRB, I didn't realize that there was a difference. I went down a rabbit hole learning about NGC vs. JTEC. The 2004 FSM has references to both. The following blurb is copied from the Interwebs, so don't blame me if it's wrong ;^)

The JTEC (Jeep/Truck Engine Controller) was used in all Jeep and Dodge truck applications starting in 1996 through approximately 2004, and can be identified by three 32-pin connectors. The NGC can be identified by four 38-pin connectors.
 
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I didn't mean to suggest either really need or don't need the DRB, the earlier ones are just easier to navigate and tweak. When I did mine I got it close enough it didn't throw a code.
 
Reviving an old thread to share a couple pictures of the Mopar O2 sensor next to the NTK O2 Sensor.

While Mopar's O2 sensors are made by NTK, they do look the same with minor differences.

Mopar has three different colored wires (black, white and gray) whereas NTK has two (two white wires and one gray).

Mopar has their part number engraved.

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There is a third number engraved and I have no idea what it is, but they differ between Mopar and NTK.

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