Is my mechanic trying to rip me off?

maxtj

maxtj

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So I have a G2 Dana 44 in the rear of the Jeep and wanted to convert the drums to disc brakes.

I know, no braking advantage - I’ve read all the posts by Blaine and Jerry. I’m converting mainly because of ease of maintenance and to refresh the rear brakes.

I’m looking at the Teraflex kit and asked my regular shop how much they’d charge. They want to charge me $900 which is about 5 hours of labor here in California. Is this as absurd as I think it is?
 
That doesn’t sound crazy. Are they doing wheel seals and bearings at the same time? Go with the Black magic kit. You will get much better support if you run into any problems. I’m sure I there’s will chime in. I installed my rear conversion and it was easily 5 hours. I also replaced my bearings and seals at the same time.
 
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I would not do it for three times that much. Just the thoughts of corroded frozen bolts, and all the things that could come up to slow the job down....... I think is a good deal.
 
Thanks guys. I wasn’t aware Blaine sold a conversion kit, I’m planning on getting the big brake kit from him later.

I’m enjoying wrenching on the jeep but this one might be beyond my abilities at the moment. I think I’ll outsource this one.
 
If you can change brake pads and rotors you can install this kit. It’s super easy it just takes time that’s all.
 
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maxtj said:
So I have a G2 Dana 44 in the rear of the Jeep and wanted to convert the drums to disc brakes.

I know, no braking advantage - I’ve read all the posts by Blaine and Jerry. I’m converting mainly because of ease of maintenance and to refresh the rear brakes.

I’m looking at the Teraflex kit and asked my regular shop how much they’d charge. They want to charge me $900 which is about 5 hours of labor here in California. Is this as absurd as I think it is?
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Barring any issues-
Wheels off to axle shafts pulled is roughly 1/2 hour.
Drums off and e-brake cables pulled is 1/2 hour to 3/4 with stopping the pedal so the reservoir doesn't drain.
Cut retainers off and pull bearings off of both shafts is 1/2- 3/4 hour, figure an hour to do that and get new bearings, seals, retainers, and shaft collars pressed back on.
Pull old lines and install new or cut and flare existing, 1/2 hour.
Install new disc set up, shafts, hose mounts, hook up hard lines, calipers, rotors, pads, e-brake cables, and adjust parking brake shoes 1 hour to 1.75
Bleed brakes and check parking brake, 1/2 hour or so.

The time they figure is about right. Be hard to do it in less time and get it all correct.
 
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Wtrask said:
If you can change brake pads and rotors you can install this kit. It’s super easy it just takes time that’s all.
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I've never cut bearings off of axle shafts and pressed on new ones correctly without a shop press. Unless you buy a set of shafts with that already done, that's a bit more experience and tools needed than changing out pads and rotors requires.
 
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maxtj said:
Thanks guys, appreciate the help. Didn’t expect a reply from Mr Blaine himself 😄
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@mrblaine: any tips for fitting new e-brake shoes under new rotors after a drum to disc swap on a Dana 35? I’m really diggin’ on the Black Magic Brake parts I’m using for this project 😊.

07397082-EF4E-4AAB-BAA0-F0E3F2BA3708.jpeg
 
Jeep 541X said:
@mrblaine: any tips for fitting new e-brake shoes under new rotors after a drum to disc swap on a Dana 35? I’m really diggin’ on the Black Magic Brake parts I’m using for this project 😊.

View attachment 361672
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This is the 3rd time I've seen your question and I still don't know what you are trying to figure out. If the rotor won't go on, the shoes are adjusted out too far. Even if the rotor barely fits over the shoes they still have to be adjusted to fit the drum and then the parking brake cables have to be adjusted after.
 
mrblaine said:
This is the 3rd time I've seen your question and I still don't know what you are trying to figure out. If the rotor won't go on, the shoes are adjusted out too far. Even if the rotor barely fits over the shoes they still have to be adjusted to fit the drum and then the parking brake cables have to be adjusted after.
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That being said, the rotors are merely held in place by the springs and no other tension is being applied to spread them out however, the rotor won’t turn freely… any suggestions based on this information?
 
Jeep 541X said:
That being said, the rotors are merely held in place by the springs and no other tension is being applied to spread them out however, the rotor won’t turn freely… any suggestions based on this information?
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Tires off the ground, in neutral and then what does it do?
 
Even though axle shafts turned easily prior to installing e-brake shoes and rotor and require a LOT more force to get them to turn after those parts were installed?
 
Jeep 541X said:
Even though axle shafts turned easily prior to installing e-brake shoes and rotor and require a LOT more force to get them to turn after those parts were installed?
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When you get them adjusted correctly, the drag on the shoes is high enough that you typically are unable to turn the axle via the wheel studs by hand.
 
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Vtx531 said:
And you still have drum brakes for the parking brake even after doing a disc brake conversion so are you not really just adding more complexity?
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Yes and no. The parking brake shoes in the drum in hat rotors are not very complex, they are simpler and do not have the self adjuster cables to mess with, or the large lever inside that spreads the shoes. One could make a good case that they are slightly less complex based on number of components being less.
Both have the below in common
brake drum
wheel cylinder
spring and hold down kit
shoe adjuster
parking brake lever
backing plate
Friction carrier x 2

Drum brakes then have the additional complexity of the self adjuster function which the disc brakes do not have. Disc brakes only have 2 more friction carriers in the calipers. Which also happen to stay in adjustment.
 
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