A Video

Does it matter?

What I see is the cleanest climb I could imagine on something like that, no wheel spin and just a very slow controlled crawl. Most folks would warm up their tires a bit for that to even be possible for them.

Sometimes I’m curious to know who people are and if they happen to be a member here.

It looks like a Blaine build so I’d expect that capability.
 
I want to know more about why this rig cleaned it. It didn't seem to need all the travel available. So what was it?

Rewatching I see a tiny spin while they were a little ways up the wall before the driver stopped themselves and eased into it (obviously that's an auto).

The tires are bigger than 35s, I think. 37-38?

There's also a midarm, which many of us already know the benefits there from a stability and traction standpoint.

I don't know much about coil overs, but those by themselves can't be a game changer (since springs just set ride height) and assume with the right shocks we could behave similarly on proper shocks with good springs (granted over a more limited range of motion).

What else am I missing? Which of these things should we be focusing on?
 
I want to know more about why this rig cleaned it. It didn't seem to need all the travel available. So what was it?

Rewatching I see a tiny spin while they were a little ways up the wall before the driver stopped themselves and eased into it (obviously that's an auto).
The wheelspin is due to that piece of shit Grizzly front locker. A full case Detroit would lock up sooner. It is only that left front tire not being driven that causes the rears to twitch around until the front bites.
The tires are bigger than 35s, I think. 37-38?
37" MT/R @ 104 in a base TJ to start.
There's also a midarm, which many of us already know the benefits there from a stability and traction standpoint.

I don't know much about coil overs, but those by themselves can't be a game changer (since springs just set ride height) and assume with the right shocks we could behave similarly on proper shocks with good springs (granted over a more limited range of motion).

What else am I missing? Which of these things should we be focusing on?
The coil-overs are 12" travel at all 4 corners set up with DSC reservoirs reasonably well tuned. Bias is 50/50 front and 58/42 rear. Belly height is 21"ish. Rig has almost the same travel that Josh's does. Within fractions of an inch anyway.

Those that know names from the way back machine will recognize Fred Stealth TJ as the original owner of that rig. One of Stu's buddies.
 
The wheelspin is due to that piece of shit Grizzly front locker. A full case Detroit would lock up sooner. It is only that left front tire not being driven that causes the rears to twitch around until the front bites.

37" MT/R @ 104 in a base TJ to start.

The coil-overs are 12" travel at all 4 corners set up with DSC reservoirs reasonably well tuned. Bias is 50/50 front and 58/42 rear. Belly height is 21"ish. Rig has almost the same travel that Josh's does. Within fractions of an inch anyway.

Those that know names from the way back machine will recognize Fred Stealth TJ as the original owner of that rig. One of Stu's buddies.

Very helpful things to know, thank you. I didn't know how to catch that front end locker nuance - I'll try to find ways to spot it for the future.

I didn't realize that was a stretch! Given the option, would you prefer to stretch a TJ or start with an LJ? Or is this a bad question and there's more factors to consider for a similar build?

I do think the wheelbase is a big bonus here, the fronts were up the steepest bit of the wall. I also recognize theres a lot more at play with how tuned shocks perform, larger tires provide more contact area, midarm adds to the stability, I don't see any junk in it so it looks light... What else goes into the balance?
 
Does it matter?

What I see is the cleanest climb I could imagine on something like that, no wheel spin and just a very slow controlled crawl. Most folks would warm up their tires a bit for that to even be possible for them.

Not just that, but it's remarkable also how perfectly stable the whole vehicle is throughout the entire video. No teeter totter, no tilting, none of the weird crap you see typical jeeps do. It's just smooth controlled forward motion with perfect weight transfer.
 
I think my favorite part is hearing the engine rev up just enough to get the torque converter to start turning the tires. And then he holds on with just enough throttle to keep things moving.
 
I think my favorite part is hearing the engine rev up just enough to get the torque converter to start turning the tires. And then he holds on with just enough throttle to keep things moving.

I need practice! I don't see any brake lights, so that wasn't terribly technical throttle control from what I can tell, just well restrained. I don't know what motor is in it, but sounds like a 4.0L.
 
I need practice! I don't see any brake lights, so that wasn't terribly technical throttle control from what I can tell, just well restrained. I don't know what motor is in it, but sounds like a 4.0L.

Pretty sure it's the 4.0.

That is all throttle control and understanding that just the throttle can be used to climb, hold still, and even roll backwards with complete control. Being able to drive like that is why I want an automatic.
 
Pretty sure it's the 4.0.

That is all throttle control and understanding that just the throttle can be used to climb, hold still, and even roll backwards with complete control. Being able to drive like that is why I want an automatic.

I've read about people using the brake to help control where in the power band you are. When is that the right thing to do vs the wrong?
 
It looks like a Blaine build so I’d expect that capability.

Seeing that Capability in action, by a skilled driver, demonstrating what good geometry and careful attention to a balanced build can provide, is a thing to appreciate by itself.

There are videos aplenty, but it's rare that we see such a good video where everything is showcased.
 
I've read about people using the brake to help control where in the power band you are. When is that the right thing to do vs the wrong?

It's probably a tool to use where appropriate, likely a downhill. But it feels like doing so is usually just fighting the brakes for no reason.