New to me 2005 Wrangler X

juice

juice

New Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2022
Messages
11
Location
Colorado
Hi!

I just purchased a 2005 Wrangler X. I don't know much about cars, but am trying to learn now that I have a fun vehicle that will require a lot of maintenance. SOOOO I'm hoping to learn from everyone's experience.

I stupidly didn't take it to a shop before buying because I was so excited. I took it to get checked out and they are recommending a few things, and i'm trying to convince myself it wasn't the worst purchase ever. Could you all maybe help me make sense of what all these things mean, and how bad of shape it sounds like my TJ is in? It only has 73,000 miles but has had 3 owners so I'm thinking some basic maintenance has fallen through the cracks.

Replace Front Track Bar - I haven't noticed any wobbling or shaking of steering wheel and alignment seems good. Hoping someone can help me understand the indication for swapping this.
Replace Rear Main Seal, Oil Pump, Oil Pan Gasket.
Inspecting Rear Diff - apparently the oil was black and has some metal shavings.
Diagnosing leak between Transmission and Transfer Case.
Front Pinion seal.
Valve cover gasket.

I already changed out the Transfer case fluid and the serpentine belt. But doubt I can do any of the other fixes on my own.

I also wanted to clean up all the grime from the undercarriage so I can look out for oil leaking - any advice and how to not mess anything up?

Thank you in advance for any and all info.
 
This is my 2005 TJ "X". It's just a faint X now, ha. I've done so much to this, it's got everything but a Rubicon PCM (computer) at this point, or close to it.

Fill out your profile, most likely you have the 4.0 it sounds like, it has the NSG370 6 speed like my 05 and 08 both have, and people will tell you it sucks (I like both of mine).

What you are saying wrong, no big deal for a 17 year old vehicle that is made to go get beat up.



2005 New Tires 35 inch BFG KM3 2.jpeg
 
juice said:
Hi!

I just purchased a 2005 Wrangler X. I don't know much about cars, but am trying to learn now that I have a fun vehicle that will require a lot of maintenance. SOOOO I'm hoping to learn from everyone's experience.

I stupidly didn't take it to a shop before buying because I was so excited. I took it to get checked out and they are recommending a few things, and i'm trying to convince myself it wasn't the worst purchase ever. Could you all maybe help me make sense of what all these things mean, and how bad of shape it sounds like my TJ is in? It only has 73,000 miles but has had 3 owners so I'm thinking some basic maintenance has fallen through the cracks.

Replace Front Track Bar - I haven't noticed any wobbling or shaking of steering wheel and alignment seems good. Hoping someone can help me understand the indication for swapping this.
Replace Rear Main Seal, Oil Pump, Oil Pan Gasket.
Inspecting Rear Diff - apparently the oil was black and has some metal shavings.
Diagnosing leak between Transmission and Transfer Case.
Front Pinion seal.
Valve cover gasket.

I already changed out the Transfer case fluid and the serpentine belt. But doubt I can do any of the other fixes on my own.

I also wanted to clean up all the grime from the undercarriage so I can look out for oil leaking - any advice and how to not mess anything up?

Thank you in advance for any and all info.
Click to expand...

I have no idea what you can or cannot do, but if you have the tools (or willingness to acquire them) to work on a car, you can work on this TJ. Does your TJ have a lift? Post some pictures, side, under, the suspension etc.

Front Track Bar, not hard to replace. Not sure why they think it needs to go, but if you have any lift, and it's not adjustable, then very possible the bushings are old and bad, I would replace.

Seems like most of these TJ's leak oil, I'm not shocked at any of these. First, I agree, get a degreaser and hit all over the bottom of the jeep. Then wash with a normal hose, don't go hammering it with a power washer, as you don't know what's up with the wiring yet. People say that O2 sensors act funny afterward until it dries out, I haven't had that issue.

I'd try and clean the engine to figure out where the oil is coming from. The valve cover gasket I had to change, and the oil pan. Those are much easier to do, then see if it still leaks. The Rear Main seal costs and takes more effort. Personally, I'd do the other two if it looks like they are leaking, then put Conventional High Mileage Oil in the Jeep, and run that for a while, with the additives that are supposed to fatten up gaskets. That may help your RMS if it is actually leaking.

Check you fluid level on the transmission, if there's a leak, you want to know the level and top it off. I'd personally drain it, and fill it with Redline-MTL gear oil for the Manual Transmission. Clean it, and see if there's a leak.

Don't be fooled by oil leaks, that crap goes everywhere, the only way to really figure out is to clean it all, and watch regularly to see if you get a good idea. If it's on top of the engine, then the valve cover is a main culprit. It can leak all the way down, who knows if anywhere else is leaking. Start high, work down, RMS last, in my opinion.

Rear diff, yeah if it's got metal, I'd want to open it and see what's going on. It's not hard to do, at all. It stinks, and you'll get some on you, but oh well. This site has all kinds of things.

Lastly, I would say, stop binge watching Netflix, spend your time reading this site, the How To section, etc etc. Youtube as well, but there are some idiots, don't trust just one video, watch a few.
 
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cpwolf said:
Front Track Bar, not hard to replace. Not sure why they think it needs to go, but if you have any lift, and it's not adjustable, then very possible the bushings are old and bad, I would replace.
Conventional High Mileage Oil
Click to expand...

I agree with all @cpwolf said, but also to add Look up and perform the dry steering test, and look at all the steering. Inspect all the control arm bushings, and body mount bushings for dryrot/cracking.

Also, emphasis should be on the CONVENTIONAL High Mileage oil. Run it for a little while after you clean up the leaked oil, and drive it.
 
cpwolf said:
I have no idea what you can or cannot do, but if you have the tools (or willingness to acquire them) to work on a car, you can work on this TJ. Does your TJ have a lift? Post some pictures, side, under, the suspension etc.

Front Track Bar, not hard to replace. Not sure why they think it needs to go, but if you have any lift, and it's not adjustable, then very possible the bushings are old and bad, I would replace.

Seems like most of these TJ's leak oil, I'm not shocked at any of these. First, I agree, get a degreaser and hit all over the bottom of the jeep. Then wash with a normal hose, don't go hammering it with a power washer, as you don't know what's up with the wiring yet. People say that O2 sensors act funny afterward until it dries out, I haven't had that issue.

I'd try and clean the engine to figure out where the oil is coming from. The valve cover gasket I had to change, and the oil pan. Those are much easier to do, then see if it still leaks. The Rear Main seal costs and takes more effort. Personally, I'd do the other two if it looks like they are leaking, then put Conventional High Mileage Oil in the Jeep, and run that for a while, with the additives that are supposed to fatten up gaskets. That may help your RMS if it is actually leaking.

Check you fluid level on the transmission, if there's a leak, you want to know the level and top it off. I'd personally drain it, and fill it with Redline-MTL gear oil for the Manual Transmission. Clean it, and see if there's a leak.

Don't be fooled by oil leaks, that crap goes everywhere, the only way to really figure out is to clean it all, and watch regularly to see if you get a good idea. If it's on top of the engine, then the valve cover is a main culprit. It can leak all the way down, who knows if anywhere else is leaking. Start high, work down, RMS last, in my opinion.

Rear diff, yeah if it's got metal, I'd want to open it and see what's going on. It's not hard to do, at all. It stinks, and you'll get some on you, but oh well. This site has all kinds of things.

Lastly, I would say, stop binge watching Netflix, spend your time reading this site, the How To section, etc etc. Youtube as well, but there are some idiots, don't trust just one video, watch a few.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for the feedback!

I wouldn't call myself mechanically inclined, but I was able to do the Tcase fluid and the serpentine belt by watching youtube videos, so I'm hoping I am more adept than I thought. I have access to some standard tools (wrenches, hex keys, etc.) at home, but also have access to an auto hobby shop where I can rent a lift bay and borrow tools. My fear is getting something started and then getting in over my head and then having a torn apart vehicle.

I will attach a few photos. My TJ is currently on 33" tires, so I am assuming it has some sort of lift/blocks but I am not sure and do not know how to identify that by looking. That may be the concern for the track bar, I will attach a photo of that too. I tried to snag some shots of where I notice potential oil leaks, but I hear what you're saying about getting it clean from top down and then identifying where a leak may be coming from.

Is a degreaser safe to use on the whole undercarriage as well as most of the engine bay? I am sure there are good youtube videos and I will seek those out.

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cpwolf said:
This is my 2005 TJ "X". It's just a faint X now, ha. I've done so much to this, it's got everything but a Rubicon PCM (computer) at this point, or close to it.

Fill out your profile, most likely you have the 4.0 it sounds like, it has the NSG370 6 speed like my 05 and 08 both have, and people will tell you it sucks (I like both of mine).

What you are saying wrong, no big deal for a 17 year old vehicle that is made to go get beat up.



View attachment 362723
Click to expand...

Yes, it is a 4.0 6 speed. The only issue I have noticed is some grinding while attempting to go into Reverse. I was told that is a common issue and there is no fix other than to rebuild the whole transmission. I am happy to hear this is pretty standard fare for this vehicle. It seems to drive great around town, but I will be moving soon and need to drive her aboyt 1,000 miles and want to make sure nothing dies while i'm on the road.

Thank you for your reply!
 
On Lift, the stock height is 12" on the front, top picture, measure the red line. Above 12" is lift, so if 16" then 4" lift for example.

The rear stock is 8" bottom picture, and above that is lift.

That starts you.

On the pic of the bottom of the Transmission, that 100% could be oil, I wouldn't go thinking that's a Trans or TC leak yet.



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1664390945450.png
 
Cover the PCM, alternator and intake with plastic grocery bags, then use a degreaser throughout the engine bay. Make sure to use a spray bottle, not the pressurized hoses at the DIY car wash bays. Simple Green and Spray Nine are 2 I've had good luck with. Make sure the engine is cool, spray thoroughly, let sit for 5-10 minutes, then rinse with a hose; again, lightly/no high-pressure nozzle. As for the undercarriage, degrease away; no electrical components or unobstructed pathways to the engine to be concerned about protecting. Once it's all cleaned up, you'll be able to get a better idea where the leaks are coming from.
 
cpwolf said:
On Lift, the stock height is 12" on the front, top picture, measure the red line. Above 12" is lift, so if 16" then 4" lift for example.

The rear stock is 8" bottom picture, and above that is lift.

That starts you.

On the pic of the bottom of the Transmission, that 100% could be oil, I wouldn't go thinking that's a Trans or TC leak yet.



View attachment 362744



View attachment 362746
Click to expand...

You're amazing, Thank you! It looks like a 2" lift.

I will see about booking a day to get into the hobby shop and clean everything off.

I appreciate your help!
 
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DaveC said:
Cover the PCM, alternator and intake with plastic grocery bags, then use a degreaser throughout the engine bay. Make sure to use a spray bottle, not the pressurized hoses at the DIY car wash bays. Simple Green and Spray Nine are 2 I've had good luck with. Make sure the engine is cool, spray thoroughly, let sit for 5-10 minutes, then rinse with a hose; again, lightly/no high-pressure nozzle. As for the undercarriage, degrease away; no electrical components or unobstructed pathways to the engine to be concerned about protecting. Once it's all cleaned up, you'll be able to get a better idea where the leaks are coming from.
Click to expand...

Do I need to dilute the Simple Green at all or am I good to go full strength? And will the oil/grease coming off stain the ground, should I be looking to do this at a hobby shop or car wash? Trying to not make another mess in the process if at all avoidable.

Seriously grateful for all the quick, helpful replies!
 
juice said:
Yes, it is a 4.0 6 speed. The only issue I have noticed is some grinding while attempting to go into Reverse. I was told that is a common issue and there is no fix other than to rebuild the whole transmission. I am happy to hear this is pretty standard fare for this vehicle. It seems to drive great around town, but I will be moving soon and need to drive her aboyt 1,000 miles and want to make sure nothing dies while i'm on the road.

Thank you for your reply!
Click to expand...

This looks to have a lot of Rough Country. It's cheap, so you get a lift, but "it's cheap". And I mean no offense, if I was in college that's how I would have lifted, now I'm buying way more expensive equipment, that acts much better.

There's no way for anyone to know if it will go 1,000 miles, but it should based on what you've said. You have stock control arms, which means that there's a good chance that your bushings on control arms and other stuff very well can be stock, which is old, and which can cause issues.

I'd drive it, make sure you get some good miles on it, check your oil just in case, don't let it get low, and drive it. Make sure you don't have any Check Engine Lights that pop up. They could have reset that and sold it, you never know. I'd also look on this forum about flushing your coolant system.
 
juice said:
You're amazing, Thank you! It looks like a 2" lift.

I will see about booking a day to get into the hobby shop and clean everything off.

I appreciate your help!
Click to expand...

Also, the Auto Hobby Shop on Post should have certified mechanics on duty, and most of the time will offer advise on issues that you might get stumped on... all you need to do is ask. Usually they also will perform some tasks that you don't want to do, or feel are above your skill at very good rates.
 
juice said:
You're amazing, Thank you! It looks like a 2" lift.

I will see about booking a day to get into the hobby shop and clean everything off.

I appreciate your help!
Click to expand...

2" lift should mean you're good with the stock if there are no vibration issues etc. That's not a lot for 33" tires if you're going to wheel this, but on the street it's ok.
Yeah, oil run off can stain, ha. The car washes won't like that either ha. I usually get on the street and do it, but I live on a decently steep street and it run down to the gutter on black asphalt. You'll have to figure that part out.


Most of what I'm telling is just regurgitating what I've learned either on here or from my brother who was the lead mechanic at Offroad Unlimited in Houston for a long time. Read in your spare time and you'll learn it.
 
Artsifrtsi said:
Also, the Auto Hobby Shop on Post should have certified mechanics on duty, and most of the time will offer advise on issues that you might get stumped on... all you need to do is ask. Usually they also will perform some tasks that you don't want to do, or feel are above your skill at very good rates.
Click to expand...

Just curious, what is the "Auto Hobby Shop"? On Post?, as on military base? Sorry, wasn't sure.
 
cpwolf said:
This looks to have a lot of Rough Country. It's cheap, so you get a lift, but "it's cheap". And I mean no offense, if I was in college that's how I would have lifted, now I'm buying way more expensive equipment, that acts much better.

There's no way for anyone to know if it will go 1,000 miles, but it should based on what you've said. You have stock control arms, which means that there's a good chance that your bushings on control arms and other stuff very well can be stock, which is old, and which can cause issues.

I'd drive it, make sure you get some good miles on it, check your oil just in case, don't let it get low, and drive it. Make sure you don't have any Check Engine Lights that pop up. They could have reset that and sold it, you never know. I'd also look on this forum about flushing your coolant system.
Click to expand...

No offense taken, I bought it off a 22 year old kid and I believe it was owned by another young guy prior to that, so I expect the few mods that were done to be quick and cheap. And unfortunately I was so excited to buy it, I wasn't being my normal logical self to check this all out ahead of purchase.

Can anything be done for old bushings, or just replace as needed? Not sure if I'm overlooking any basic maintenance as far as lubrication goes. I will not take offense to even the simplest advice as I am fully aware of my lack of knowledge.

It will not be a daily driver, mainly for trails and when I need 4WD in snow as we're moving to Colorado, but I want to make sure it can make it up there!
 
juice said:
No offense taken, I bought it off a 22 year old kid and I believe it was owned by another young guy prior to that, so I expect the few mods that were done to be quick and cheap. And unfortunately I was so excited to buy it, I wasn't being my normal logical self to check this all out ahead of purchase.

Can anything be done for old bushings, or just replace as needed? Not sure if I'm overlooking any basic maintenance as far as lubrication goes. I will not take offense to even the simplest advice as I am fully aware of my lack of knowledge.

It will not be a daily driver, mainly for trails and when I need 4WD in snow as we're moving to Colorado, but I want to make sure it can make it up there
Click to expand...
Ok, cool on the Hobby Shop, my son left West Point and enlisted and just arrived at Ft. Benning, so thanks for your service, very cool.

Sounds like you have a start. The fluids to make sure on:
Oil
Coolant (if it's not over heating here in Texas, it should be fine, but a flush would be on my list).
Differentials, I'd check level, and if the mechanic said there's an issue, I would get that checked, that could be a big problem, hopefully not.
If you're putting in the time and effort, I would look at the Transmission (put in Redline MTL), but that oil forward of there is probably what you're seeing, it drips down all over.

On the Transmission reverse, I have had 3 of the 6 speeds. On one, it would grind to reverse, but I learned how not to. Clutch in, Put in reverse, and slowly, very slowly let up on the clutch, and see if it will "notch" in without grinding. It took some practice, but my sliver 05 TJ I could put it in every time, never ground it.

Haven't had that issue on the other two.
 
juice said:
Do I need to dilute the Simple Green at all or am I good to go full strength? And will the oil/grease coming off stain the ground, should I be looking to do this at a hobby shop or car wash? Trying to not make another mess in the process if at all avoidable.

Seriously grateful for all the quick, helpful replies!
Click to expand...

No need to dilute unless you buy a concentrated version that's meant to be diluted. Can't say whether what's on your engine/bits will stain. Lots of fluids in the engine bay; some can leave stains while others won't and it also depends on what's below your Jeep (dirt, asphalt, cement, etc.). When in doubt, always best to do over dirt, or a drain meant to capture that type of stuff, a couple sheets of cardboard, etc.
 
juice said:
No offense taken, I bought it off a 22 year old kid and I believe it was owned by another young guy prior to that, so I expect the few mods that were done to be quick and cheap. And unfortunately I was so excited to buy it, I wasn't being my normal logical self to check this all out ahead of purchase.

Can anything be done for old bushings, or just replace as needed? Not sure if I'm overlooking any basic maintenance as far as lubrication goes. I will not take offense to even the simplest advice as I am fully aware of my lack of knowledge.

It will not be a daily driver, mainly for trails and when I need 4WD in snow as we're moving to Colorado, but I want to make sure it can make it up there!
Click to expand...

Welcome to your new TJ! You sound like me when I started in 2017. I knew nothing except maybe how to change the oil, but I hadn't even done that in years. With the help of people on the forum I've done a lot now, both engine and suspension. The good news is these little Jeep's are easy to work on. If you havec any mechanical inclination you can do just about anything yourself. The only thing I'd stay away from is gears. You may have to buy some tools, but the cost is more than made up for over paying someone to do it for you. Of course, if you don't want to mess with it, I understand that too. You want to get it ready to drivec to CO and be safe. I've owned four of these now, and I still own three of them. I'd do the following:

1) replace the spark plugs
2) replace the air filter
3) check the belts and make sure they are not cracked or cut
4) check brake fluid level
5) check oil level and then change it
6) replace diff fluid front and rear (fill up to the plug)
7) replace transmission fluid
8) replace TCase fluid (you already did this)
9) check tire age and replace if they are old
10) fix that pinion leak by replacing the pinion seal (you'll need a in/lb torque wrench for this and a ft/lb torque wrench to put the nut back on, you can rent the latter at a local auto parts store)

At that point I think you could drive it to CO. Take some oil with you just in case the RMS is leaking bad, but you should already know from watching the drips where you park daily. Mine's been dripping for 5 years and I still haven't replaced it. As someone mentioned, you might try some conventional high mileage oil. It has additives that can restore the seals.

After I got to CO I'd try to find the other leaks by cleaning everything up and watching for the source of the leaks as suggested by others. Once you get it all in order, start building your X. Yes, we're here to help you spend your money. Ask for help on anything. There are always people here who want to help.

The day I got my X:
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As it sits today:

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