Isn't it amazing how so many of the fuckwits are concerned about group think despite all having a similar approach to stupidity?
A comparison of building for 33s and 35s
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
Isn't it amazing how so many of the fuckwits are concerned about group think despite all having a similar approach to stupidity?
It's early and my double-negative reading comprehension is sluggish. Just want to be sure:
33s: hydro assist almost never needed.
35s: hydro assist almost always needed.
If so I'd call that a big difference in build requirements.
Also reminds me that I need to get going on this upgrade. I've gotten by without but have been in situations where I couldn't steer without moving.
At least in my observation and experience, 33s rarely if ever get into a situation where steering becomes impossible. They aren't large enough to create enough contact with the ground to cause resistance. They aren't large enough and the builds typically aren't capable enough to get the Jeep into the kind of trouble that stops the steering.
35s really changes the potential for that. And the further you push the build and also make use of the capabilities, the more likely one is to discover the steering isn't working right when it needs to.
I never felt like I needed hydro on 33s. Now on 35s, I have found those many moments many times.
One instance I have noticed often enough is at full articulation with the driver's high and passenger low, the drag link is at a steep enough angle that the leverage off the pitman arm is reduced to the point that the steering quits working.
While not a specific example of my steering not working, this type of twisting is where it can happen. Weight shift and traction only make it worse.
Many can and do get away without hydro assist. But it becomes very clear when it would be very useful to have.
Hydro assist is definitely on my list of things to do. Once again, the domino effect is very real. And this is one that is very interesting to me.
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I’d say it is not required but it is optimal. I wouldn’t want to wheel without it on 35’s.
I think the biggest reason to classify HA as a safety item is when doing a steep downhill like in Moab since all of the weight is on the front axle. Not being able to steer in that position is terrifying.
It does, making it optimal.
I’ve wheeled all the same trails without it also making it not required.
You’ve wheeled for years without it.
I think people should do it but it’s more of a down the road mod unless you’ve got a bucketload of money to spend up front. And I wouldn’t fuck around with non PSC options.
No, I don't do PSC installs on rigs with 33's, with or without hydro assist.
Yes, but only by virtue of the reason we are installing the PSC stuff is because they can't turn. If you get to that point in your wheeling, you are working it hard and the hydro assist is desired to take some reaction force off of the trackbar. We don't install the PSC kit without hydro assist very often. Once you get to the point where it makes sense to get the pump, reservoir, and steering gear then you are working it hard enough that the HA helps. HA is not needed to turn the tires, the PSC will turn just about any place the HA will. The difference is the HA takes some load off of the trackbar.
You're gonna make me qualify by regional differences and we know where that goes, right?
Oh OK so you're talking about high-pressure and volume pump independent from HA. Got it thanks.
Incrementalism at its finest.From experience, I can say that front stubby bumpers can create the need for non-stock front fenders. And rear low profile bumpers pair really well with corner armor.
The domino effect is real!
I think that if you are strategic in your build you can do the 33 combo build in stages and stay under 10k to do it. With today's dollars not much under unfortunately compared to a few years ago but I still think it can be done.
Lets not put any ideas in anyone's head that heavy "rockcrawler" shafts are a good idea. Bad enough I get asked far too often to build 1350 front shafts for a 35 inch tire rig because the interwebs said it was needed.
Sure right next to the lightbars.
If you have full clarity on what exactly to do .. then yes, it's doable in a reasonable budget. Sometimes getting to that level of understanding takes time (and for some people, redoing things or building another Jeep). The good and correct information is out there and is not hard to find. Just need to be able to understand what's being communicated. Strategy then becomes just order of things and discipline to wait till changes are needed.
Not sure that needs to be a hard and fast rule. If 33s are your final destination then 3"+BL makes sense, but there are enough people passing through 33s on the way to 35s that it at least deserves a mention that going straight to a 4" lift will result in fewer parts bought twice.
If you ever get the time to read about the history of the science of evolution, you'll see something remarkable. There was a period of time in history that was called as the "eclipse of Darwinism". This was the time period when evolution was an accepted phenomenon in the scientific community, but relatively very few biologists truly believed that natural selection was the primary mechanism behind it. Several other roundabout and silly explanations were explored until the ideas of population genetics made it impossible to ignore. Eventually the introduction of Modern Synthesis finally merged the ideas of Charles Darwin and Gregor Mendl into one framework.
In the Jeep world, we already have impossible-to-ignore ideas - and very many examples and working proofs that these ideas work and are the outcome of logical thought, reasoning and understanding that's happened over many years. Yet we are mostly still in the eclipse phase.
ps: apologies to real biologists that may be reading this if my explanation is a little incorrect in describing the history. I'm recounting what I read a good while ago.
you know what’s funny… my 4x4 club was chatting about mods and which ones we would do again and ones we regret. Someone said 33” tires. We all laughed, but I started reflecting on that.
For me, I thought I’d be good with 32’s, then 33’s, and then I got serious about building it “right” and here we are. I think that progression of tire size is pretty natural. This hobby is like a drug, and the more you do, then more you want! I keep looking at LJs on 37’s. Sooner or later I’m gonna cave.
In both realms, the resistance to factual reality comes from a certain kind of conservatism often motivated by an anti-empiricism agenda.
Life was easier on a 3"+1.25" and 33's tucked and locked and re-geared with underarmor. Works pretty good too.
I like mine so much more on 35s. It works much better all around. Along with everything else that is outside the scope of this thread!
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