Front driveshaft contacting skid plate

ThomasFletch

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Dec 15, 2019
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Location
Redlands, CA
Hello everyone! So, after visiting my mechanic for a transmission fluid change, he mentioned that the front drive shaft was connecting with the skid plate. He recommended that I get a t-case drop kit, so I found this one by OME. Looking through the forums, I did see a few mentions of motor mounts and SYE to possibly address the issue, but I wasn't certain if that applied to the front driveshaft as well. For context, I have the 2" OME Lift kit with a 1.25 Savvy BL, and a 1” JKS aluminum motor mount lift.

TLDR; Should I get the t-case drop kit, or what are my other options?

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Doesn't look too bad. How much wheeling at full flex are you doing?

I wouldn't fix a rub that happens occasionally.

Washers are an option.

The skid plate drop I removed from my Jeep was just .125 1" square tube with holes drilled in em.

I added a SYE and replaced my driveshafts.

My front driveshaft hits my exhaust occasionally.

-Mac
 
That looks like it’s just the auto transmission skid crossmember that the issue. If your current setup does not give you rear driveshaft vibes then do not lower the tcase skid. You just need to address the trans skid crossmember.
 
Doesn't look too bad. How much wheeling at full flex are you doing?

I wouldn't fix a rub that happens occasionally.

Washers are an option.

The skid plate drop I removed from my Jeep was just .125 1" square tube with holes drilled in em.

I added a SYE and replaced my driveshafts.

My front driveshaft hits my exhaust occasionally.

-Mac

I don't really do too much wheeling at full flex, just occasionally on trails with friends, but mostly fire roads and moderate trails.

That looks like it’s just the auto transmission skid crossmember that the issue. If your current setup does not give you rear driveshaft vibes then do not lower the tcase skid. You just need to address the trans skid crossmember.

I don't think I'm getting any vibes? To be honest, I'm not really sure what I would be feeling if I did. It drives just the same as I remember it driving. As for the cross-member, do you have any recommendations?


I appreciate the help, guys!
 
I don't really do too much wheeling at full flex, just occasionally on trails with friends, but mostly fire roads and moderate trails.



I don't think I'm getting any vibes? To be honest, I'm not really sure what I would be feeling if I did. It drives just the same as I remember it driving. As for the cross-member, do you have any recommendations?


I appreciate the help, guys!

I’ve seen some modify that section of the skid where it hits. Basically cut a section out, add a hop above the driveshaft and weld it all back together.

Mine did the same after my lift. I ditched the factory auto transmission skid and put a Savvy engine skid mated to the factory transfer case skid. Not exactly cheap, but it fixes the driveshaft running issue and also protects the oil pan.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...pan-valve-using-oem-transfer-case-skid.15366/
 
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Doesn't look too bad. How much wheeling at full flex are you doing?

I wouldn't fix a rub that happens occasionally.

Washers are an option.

The skid plate drop I removed from my Jeep was just .125 1" square tube with holes drilled in em.

I added a SYE and replaced my driveshafts.

My front driveshaft hits my exhaust occasionally.

-Mac

craig ds.jpg


craig ds1.jpg
 
I cut out part of the skid crossmember & welded in a reinforcement on the bottom.
It now clears the driveshaft at no cost.
 
I really appreciate everyone's input here. So from my understanding, it would be detrimental to the pinion angles to lower the skid? Or are these just better alternatives?

So, would this be me if I don't lower the skid plate, or if I just go with replacing it without dealing with the pinion angles?


You could chance it and remove the front skid and crossmember.
Another option is to cut off the left side of the crossmember, leaving the skid in place.
After that, you would have to fab something or replace.
Here's the hoop I used to have.
View attachment 367212
I saw your photo in a different post, my only question: doesn't this have the chance of contacting something above it? I may or may not do jumps with my friends when on certain trails, so I would worry that it would contact either the body or another component.


I cut out part of the skid crossmember & welded in a reinforcement on the bottom.
It now clears the driveshaft at no cost.
I really like this idea, however, I don't think my welding/cutting skills are anywhere near good enough to do something like this, unfortunately.


I’ve seen some modify that section of the skid where it hits. Basically cut a section out, add a hop above the driveshaft and weld it all back together.

Mine did the same after my lift. I ditched the factory auto transmission skid and put a Savvy engine skid mated to the factory transfer case skid. Not exactly cheap, but it fixes the driveshaft running issue and also protects the oil pan.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...pan-valve-using-oem-transfer-case-skid.15366/
The Savvy skid fits and is a good upgrade.
Had the same issue after lifting the LJ. Looking at all the options I went with the Under Cover Fabworks and am very happy with it.

https://undercoverfab.com/carbon-st...eel-engine-skid-plate-for-03-06-tjlj-40l.html
I think one of these will be the option I think I'll go with. I'm leaning more towards Savvy only because I recognize the brand name. Also, looking at the images of the UCF one, it looks like it comes far too close to the front driveshaft yoke?

1665964021087.png



And just to really confirm in my head: the pinion angles in my pictures seems completely fine, right?

Again, thank you all for the input here.
 
I really appreciate everyone's input here. So from my understanding, it would be detrimental to the pinion angles to lower the skid? Or are these just better alternatives?


So, would this be me if I don't lower the skid plate, or if I just go with replacing it without dealing with the pinion angles?



I saw your photo in a different post, my only question: doesn't this have the chance of contacting something above it? I may or may not do jumps with my friends when on certain trails, so I would worry that it would contact either the body or another component.




I really like this idea, however, I don't think my welding/cutting skills are anywhere near good enough to do something like this, unfortunately.





I think one of these will be the option I think I'll go with. I'm leaning more towards Savvy only because I recognize the brand name. Also, looking at the images of the UCF one, it looks like it comes far too close to the front driveshaft yoke?

View attachment 367425


And just to really confirm in my head: the pinion angles in my pictures seems completely fine, right?

Again, thank you all for the input here.

These are better alternatives. Lowering the skid is accepting a loss of clearance.

That could be your shaft if you keep touching it to the transmission skid plate.

I really don’t recommend jumping your TJ, but it’s not mine.

If you do a Savvy skid you are tucking the belly, which means you are raising the transfer case up a lot. It would change all your pinion and shaft angles. Minimally you need a 1.25” BL, a 1”MML, a cable shifter, a full set of adjustable control arms.
 
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I think one of these will be the option I think I'll go with. I'm leaning more towards Savvy only because I recognize the brand name. Also, looking at the images of the UCF one, it looks like it comes far too close to the front driveshaft yoke?



And just to really confirm in my head: the pinion angles in my pictures seems completely fine, right?

Again, thank you all for the input here.

I think that angle is bad. Just took a pic of my setup. I think that there is about sixish inches of clearance if not more. Medium size hand for reference.

PXL_20221017_004715042.jpg


PXL_20221017_004746168.jpg


Ignore the rust :) Yankee Jeep
 
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If you do a Savvy skid you are tucking the belly, which means you are raising the transfer case up a lot. It would change all your pinion and shaft angles. Minimally you need a 1.25” BL, a 1”MML, a cable shifter, a full set of adjustable control arms.

Not if he does just the Savvy or UCF engine skid mated to the OEM skid.

Either skid would be fine. I went with Savvy because they replied to my questions first, which ironic because lately a lot of people say they can’t get any communication with them. That was a few years ago for me though.
 
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If you do a Savvy skid you are tucking the belly, which means you are raising the transfer case up a lot. It would change all your pinion and shaft angles. Minimally you need a 1.25” BL, a 1”MML, a cable shifter, a full set of adjustable control arms.

The Savvy engine/trans skid can bolt to the OEM skid plate if he doesn't want to tuck the tummy yet. It won't change any driveline angles.
 
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Not if he does just the Savvy or UCF engine skid mated to the OEM skid.

Either skid would be fine. I went with Savvy because they replied to my questions first, which ironic because lately a lot of people say they can’t get any communication with them. That was a few years ago for me though.

Main reason I went with UCF because they had it in stock, Savvy said they didn't know when theirs's would be back in stock. UCF got it to me within a week. Savvy is aluminum and the UCF one I linked is steel. No mods were needed for the UCF except for drilling a few new holes in the stock skid plate. Same for a friend of mine who got the Savvy.
 
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I went ahead and bought the UCF skid plate. I will update on how that goes when it gets here. And just because I'm the type of person to triple check everything: the pinion angles as they are, are fine, I don't need to add on another MML or BL to the ones I already have, or change the 4wd shifter linkage if I keep the stock skid plate in place?
 
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I went ahead and bought the UCF skid plate. I will update on how that goes when it gets here. And just because I'm the type of person to triple check everything: the pinion angles as they are, are fine, I don't need to add on another MML or BL to the ones I already have, or change the 4wd shifter linkage if I keep the stock skid plate in place?

You won’t need anything else with the stock transfer case skid.

I have the same lift, body lift and MML as you. Before all that though, I went 2 or 3 years with just the Savvy skid mated to the stock transfer case skid and that’s it. I have a UCF extra clearance transfer case skid hanging in my shop just waiting to be installed.

I don’t know if the UCF engine skid has this (I’d imagine they do), but with a body lift, you can use the lower set of mounting holes on the front of the skid for a little more ground clearance.