Who uses Clayton Off-Road?

Head over to Barnes Off Road, https://barnes4wd.com/products/jeep...nt-and-4-link-rear-long-arm-suspension-system, they have all the parts you need to create your own system or a complete 4 link rear and 3 link front kit.

The great thing about the Barnes kit is the adjustability which you East Coast guys need. Running muddy conditions you can change the anti-squat, running rocks the next day you change increase the ant-squat by simply moving two bolts.

If you want to build your own , short arm, mid arm or long arm system Barnes has the prefab parts and the beauty of the Barnes' system is adjustability, which systems like Savvy do not offer. Not to mention a Barnes sourced system or kit is way cheaper.

With parts from Barnes and help from Crawlpedia, https://www.crawlpedia.com/4_link_suspension.htm , anyone can become their own suspension design expert and builder.

Do you care to share with the class what behaviors in AS one would want to change when running rocks one day and mud on the next?
 
Do you care to share with the class what behaviors in AS one would want to change when running rocks one day and mud on the next?

It is called anti-squat, learn more here,
, Jake Burkey has a great series on East Coast suspension design and discusses rock vs mud suspension setup and design.
 
The savvy kit will be your best friend as far as a kit with good geometry that allows you to keep your tummy tuck. I built a rear triangulated midarm with a savvy truss, and genright 4 link brackets. I extended the upper control arm mount up on the genright brackets for better geometry. Extending the upper hole 3/4” matches the Savvy geometry.
2DE4CF5E-3978-44C5-87A6-53BCC7AE4C87.jpeg
 
It is called anti-squat, learn more here,
, Jake Burkey has a great series on East Coast suspension design and discusses rock vs mud suspension setup and design.

I know what it is called. I was hoping you would explain something for once.
 
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I do have mounts. I welded up the 60's based on factory settings. I guess I / We don't understand your lingo.?

What do the mounts on your 60s look like now? I don't see many using a Currie bridge up front. In the rear it can work ok.
 
The front axle was set up for stock geometry since I am running a Rub. Ex. short arm. I have been talking with Casey Currie and he said I can run a 3 link front off the diff mount on the 60. Just researching who to buy frame mounts from with all who have suggested. Did my measurements last night to check lengths and angles. Now to build all the pieces. Only thing I don't like is the Currie truss for the rear sits a little far back because the housing is so big....so my rear uppers may be a couple inches longer than the lowers. I can not rotate the truss because it bolts to the top of the housing because you have to be able to remove it, to remove the diff cover.
 
The front axle was set up for stock geometry since I am running a Rub. Ex. short arm. I have been talking with Casey Currie and he said I can run a 3 link front off the diff mount on the 60. Just researching who to buy frame mounts from with all who have suggested. Did my measurements last night to check lengths and angles. Now to build all the pieces. Only thing I don't like is the Currie truss for the rear sits a little far back because the housing is so big....so my rear uppers may be a couple inches longer than the lowers. I can not rotate the truss because it bolts to the top of the housing because you have to be able to remove it, to remove the diff cover.

The savvy uppers are longer than the lowers as well.
 
The front axle was set up for stock geometry since I am running a Rub. Ex. short arm. I have been talking with Casey Currie and he said I can run a 3 link front off the diff mount on the 60. Just researching who to buy frame mounts from with all who have suggested. Did my measurements last night to check lengths and angles. Now to build all the pieces. Only thing I don't like is the Currie truss for the rear sits a little far back because the housing is so big....so my rear uppers may be a couple inches longer than the lowers. I can not rotate the truss because it bolts to the top of the housing because you have to be able to remove it, to remove the diff cover.

Tox has a good build thread on the 60's

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...treetable-adventure-lj-story.9956/post-264030
 
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The front axle was set up for stock geometry since I am running a Rub. Ex. short arm. I have been talking with Casey Currie and he said I can run a 3 link front off the diff mount on the 60. Just researching who to buy frame mounts from with all who have suggested. Did my measurements last night to check lengths and angles. Now to build all the pieces. Only thing I don't like is the Currie truss for the rear sits a little far back because the housing is so big....so my rear uppers may be a couple inches longer than the lowers. I can not rotate the truss because it bolts to the top of the housing because you have to be able to remove it, to remove the diff cover.

The Currie truss can be modified to suit what you want for mount positioning as long as you avoid the bolt locations.

For the front you'll be better off building something custom that bolts to both the casting and diff cover.

DSC_4538.jpg
 
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For the front you'll be better off building something custom that bolts to both the casting and diff cover.
And depending on what cover Currie sends you, you may need to buy a different cover. The one they sent me stuck up way too far for the control arm mount plate to work.