TJ Rubicon vs. TJ Sport or X?

Suss said:
I like what you have. It seems to fit what you like to do. Drop in a Detroit locker or a reduction in the T-Case and keep wheeling it. If you break an axel, upgrade them.
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pagrey said:
The Rubicon package doesn't offer much, be careful. I highly doubt you could sell your Jeep and get a Rubicon for less than the cost of a Super35 kit, lockers and a whole lot more. The Rubicon is almost always a poor choice to start a build, the lockers are weak, the gears aren't right for just about anything, the transfer case is heavy and so is the front axle. The only thing it has is a cool decal on the hood and the ability to run 5.38 gears. Unless you are getting a really good deal I'd stick with what you've got.
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Thanks guys, that actually helped a lot. I already installed an arb compressor. Want to regear and ad an air lockers. Figured might as well do rear axel while doing everything else. Trying to lower chances of getting stranded... swap it before I break it. I see so many Rubicons I guess the marketing got me. Had some rust issues before I got it (frame was filled with that foam stuff). I sanded any surface rust and clear coated. Hit anything else I could reach with POR15. Thats only problem it really has and its been addressed. Owner before me was a mechanic kept it almost completely stock. 2000 with 90k miles when I got it... runs solid. That's the concern of buying anything else is not knowing what new problems come with it.
 
inkedrose said:
Thanks! I'm in a similar dilemma to the original Op. I have a Sport now that I'm looking at either a super 35 kit or a G2 axel swap geared to 4.56 and adding an air locker. For the price of upgrading my sport I could sell and buy a rubicon that's already on 35's and is in a little better condition then my current ride. Going back and forth of what's the better option? In the last 3 months I've spent 28 days off road in Colorado. Started on "green" trails and have worked up to some of the easier reds. Haven't needed lockers or bigger tires yet but I will want them at some point. I already lifted it once wish I would have gone higher. I'm 50/50 on buying the Rubicon or building what I already have
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It depends on how big you want to build. It sounds like you want to build for 35’s. In that case I’d stay with your Sport.

If I were building for 32’s I’d start with a Rubi. Gears would be good, lockers, 4:1 TCase, axles good, and give it a TT. Wheel all day.

The things you’re missing on your Sport that are really nice:

4:1 TCase or an Atlas
Lockers
TT
 
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JMT said:
It depends on how big you want to build. It sounds like you want to build for 35’s. In that case I’d stay with your Sport.
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Planning on 33's with room to grow if I decide on 35's. It's not my DD but I do drive it in town and want to be able to drive to the trails. Looked at your build page, your on 33's in your profile photo right? Saw you have the 44 rear end. You mind if I ask why you chose that over a super 35?
 
inkedrose said:
Planning on 33's with room to grow if I decide on 35's. It's not my DD but I do drive it in town and want to be able to drive to the trails. Looked at your build page, your on 33's in your profile photo right? Saw you have the 44 rear end. You mind if I ask why you chose that over a super 35?
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I was on 33’s for a long time. I just went to 35’s a few weeks ago. The photo in my profile pic is on 35’s. They are KM3’s. The MCE fenders may be throwing you off. There’s a lot of room above my tires. Photos below of 33’s then 35’s.

I swapped in a Dana 44 because I was unsure about the S35 at the time and one came up on Craigslist. It also had disc brakes, which was a bonus. In the end, it would have been cheaper to do a S35, but I still like having a Dana 44 and disc brakes.

33’s
6B0D05CF-5D82-45AB-8161-BF5FBDC0B274.jpeg

35’s
AE255EF4-F385-471A-8B6F-0BCADAE0C873.jpeg
 
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murphy350 said:
Why wouldn't you touch a 20)5 or 2006?
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Know problems with the OPDM, Auto Transmission ECM and stuff like that would be my guess, of course I can't speak for @Jerry Bransford but he will be along to fill you in.

I have an 06 Rubicon and I am loving it, it has a @Wranglerfix ECM, and the overdrive on the transmission has to be manually turned on.

With out using O/D and driving 60-65 mph I am averaging right at 16mpg.

I am happy so far!!!!!
 
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murphy350 said:
Why wouldn't you touch a 20)5 or 2006?
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Those two model years have a known potential problem with the OPDA (oil pump drive assembly) and the PCM when the transmission is an automatic. Not everyone experiences those problems and some are able to fix them by installing a Crown OPDA OPDA kit and/or a new PCM from Wranglerfix.com but personally I would choose an '04 or earlier that won't have those potential problems. And not everyone can get the OPDA permanently fixed, there are threads about problems even after installing the OPDA kit from Crown.
 
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The problems on the '05-'06 models are hugely overblown IMO. I have an '05 LJR which BTW did not exist before '05.

Replacing the OPDA is pretty cheap and painless as long as it's done before any significant cam damage. I replaced mine at around the 85K miles. It was throwing codes because the OEM assembly was worn but cam was O.K. No codes after replacement of the OPDA assembly but retained an original OEM sensor.

I also replaced my PCM just recently with around 130K miles on it. It did not completely fail but began to show symptoms (engine dying, gauges erratic, etc.). I don't think PCM failures are unique to '05-'06. But @Wranglerfix can confirm or correct that statement.

Basically, there are no issues on the '05-'06 models that cannot be resolved fairly easily. There are surely a few haters of the '05-'06 years but many of the haters have never actually owned one. I'm happy to have an LJR with a manual transmission, not available before '05.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
You either get what I was saying or you don't.
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I totally do get what you're saying.

I just don't get how the 2 "non-significant issues" with those 2 years trump the likelihood of a cracked head, as just 1 example, of a "non-trivial issue" that affects some earlier years. You sort of sound like if you avoid those 2 years, you're golden. Not quite accurate.

If you're going to highlight issues with specific model years, might as well list them for all the TJ years when advising a potential new TJ owner.

You either get what I'm saying or you don't.
 
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pagrey said:
The Rubicon package doesn't offer much. The Rubicon is almost always a poor choice to start a build, the lockers are weak, the gears aren't right for just about anything, the transfer case is heavy and so is the front axle. The only thing it has is a cool decal on the hood and the ability to run 5.38 gears.
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:cry:
 
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BobK said:
I went and saw one of the two TJ Rubi's that I've found relatively locally yesterday. It was in great body and mechanical condition. The fact is, it was already lifted with new tires and wheels, and was ready to drive as is and I'm looking for a Rubi that I could make a project. I'm not looking for a rust heap or a money pit, but one that I could putter around with making it "mine". The TJR yesterday was great, but it was someone else's dream not mine.

Today I have another TJR to look at that has far less miles, but also appears to be in great shape too. The question will be if it is the base that I'm looking to upgrade or is it already upgraded more than I'm interested in.

This raises a question in my mind. I have been fully focused on getting a Rubi and have passed up tons of Sport and X models. Should I reconsider an X or Sport and use it as the platform to upgrade. Up until now, I wasn't planning on messing with axles, lockers, transfer cases, gears, etc. I assumed I would install a lift, bumpers, winch, service the engine (OPDA, PCM - as needed) replace belts and hoses as necessary, etc.

So I have two questions. Whats the big difference between the Sport and the X? How much effort to make the Sport or X have more of the performance characteristics of a Rubi (or close enough for some modest off roading)?

Bob
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Depends on your end goal.

If you want to go bigger than 32" tires then get a Sport or X. Otherwise, stay with a Rubi. Sufficient gearing, lockers. easy build.
 
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g.hayduke said:
The problems on the '05-'06 models are hugely overblown IMO. I have an '05 LJR which BTW did not exist before '05.

Replacing the OPDA is pretty cheap and painless as long as it's done before any significant cam damage. I replaced mine at around the 85K miles. It was throwing codes because the OEM assembly was worn but cam was O.K. No codes after replacement of the OPDA assembly but retained an original OEM sensor.

I also replaced my PCM just recently with around 130K miles on it. It did not completely fail but began to show symptoms (engine dying, gauges erratic, etc.). I don't think PCM failures are unique to '05-'06. But @Wranglerfix can confirm or correct that statement.

Basically, there are no issues on the '05-'06 models that cannot be resolved fairly easily. There are surely a few haters of the '05-'06 years but many of the haters have never actually owned one. I'm happy to have an LJR with a manual transmission, not available before '05.
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You are flogging a dead horse lol Real Data is what's needed not hearsay! There are way too many 05/06 TJ, s on the road today that did not need a manufacturers fix and just as many 05/06 TJ owners who have never even heard of the problems!
Its great to know you can identify problems that can be fixed before damage occurs or expensive mechanical /electrical investigation is paid out for to identify it.
A squealing OPDA was a real problem for TJ,s when drivers and mechanics didn't know what it was when the vehicles were newer so carried on driving and even continuingly revving the bollocks off them to show others the noise!

An OPDA is cheap enough to swap out every major service if it was that much of a concern because it clearly has not affected their performance or longevity enough over an 03/04 to totally avoid them.
 
My take is it depends on price and goals.
If you plan to stay close to stock the rubicon has alot of upgrades for a reasonable price. If you plan to lift amd go larger on tires then your likely going to need to regear or replace axles. The tcase can be a nice addition with its lower gears and already slipyoke eliminated rear housing. This is where price come in. The axles are desirable for other jeep guys amd will bring a premium possibly if you were to sell them. So if the jeep was in the proper shape for your desires and you could recoup the funds by going rubicon and modifying past what the rubicon can handle it would be a good idea. The x and sport are very similar past axles amd tcase. Id wager the rubicon will be closer to fully opitoned then the sport or x. I ended up with a sahara but it was more based on physical and mechanical shape for me as i plan on replacing or modifying just about everything at some point while i own the jeep
 
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BobK said:
I purchased the new hardtop from a company called Camper King www.camperkingusa.com nice fitting top, not OEM but it was priced the lower than local 20 year old skanky looking used tops, so I bit the bullet and bought one.

The rear bumper is from Tuff Stuff Overland, PM me for more info and links to the less than $500 bumper and tire carrier.
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How did you end up liking the Camper King top?
 
g.hayduke said:
I totally do get what you're saying.

I just don't get how the 2 "non-significant issues" with those 2 years trump the likelihood of a cracked head, as just 1 example, of a "non-trivial issue" that affects some earlier years. You sort of sound like if you avoid those 2 years, you're golden. Not quite accurate.

If you're going to highlight issues with specific model years, might as well list them for all the TJ years when advising a potential new TJ owner.

You either get what I'm saying or you don't.
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If I had to buy another,it would be an 03-04 rubicon
 
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