Upgrade early model HVAC slide knobs to late style turn knobs?

Does anyone have any pictures of the harnesses and how they are spliced in?

I'm confused on the what harnesses are needed. I purchased a box from a 99' to put in my 98'. It has the wiring to the actuators, etc. , but it sounds like I also need a 99' instrument panel wiring harness to splice into my existing instrument panel wiring harness and then connect to the wiring on the 99' AC box?

Any insight here would be very helpful
 
Rotary had one more selection to offer AC on floor and upper vents at the same time, slide controls only offer it on the upper. I had slide controls on my last one and it always annoyed me (don't mind the look, just the function). Current jeep doesn't even have AC so want to get it right when I put it in. Sacramento temps get HOT!
 
Rotary had one more selection to offer AC on floor and upper vents at the same time, slide controls only offer it on the upper. I had slide controls on my last one and it always annoyed me (don't mind the look, just the function). Current jeep doesn't even have AC so want to get it right when I put it in. Sacramento temps get HOT!


Well now, that is interesting. I made a thread about my slider controls a few weeks ago. It seems that on my 1998 model with sliders, the VENT and A/C functions directs air to the upper vents, panel vents, and floor vents at the same time:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-vents-on-earlier-model-tj.32301/#post-523680
 
Very interesting indeed! I was on another thread where a guy with a 98' said his would only push air through the upper on AC. I'm wondering if maybe his or your actuators might not be functioning properly and either his just doesn't open or your stays open. I would live it if the slides forced air on upper and lower. I can't anything in any manual that describes what the factory function should be.
 
Very interesting indeed! I was on another thread where a guy with a 98' said his would only push air through the upper on AC. I'm wondering if maybe his or your actuators might not be functioning properly and either his just doesn't open or your stays open. I would live it if the slides forced air on upper and lower. I can't anything in any manual that describes what the factory function should be.

If the other guy's was only pushing air through the upper deforst vents, he probably has a vacuum issue. If no vacuum is present, the actuators won't work and the air defaults to the defroster vents.

The Owner's Manual says otherwise, but on my Jeep, the VENT and A/C functions splits the air between the defrost vents, panel vents, and floor vents. Perhaps this was a mid-year change to preview the upcoming dial controls and the extra A/C selection that came with it?

I looked under my dashboard and observed the actuators while I selected the functions on the HVAC panel. Everything works and seems to be functioning as it was designed.
 
If the other guy's was only pushing air through the upper deforst vents, he probably has a vacuum issue. If no vacuum is present, the actuators won't work and the air defaults to the defroster vents.

The Owner's Manual says otherwise, but on my Jeep, the VENT and A/C functions splits the air between the defrost vents, panel vents, and floor vents. Perhaps this was a mid-year change to preview the upcoming dial controls and the extra A/C selection that came with it?

I looked under my dashboard and observed the actuators while I selected the functions on the HVAC panel. Everything works and seems to be functioning as it was designed.

I looked at a bunch of control units and noticed there are two sets of groves on the selector track, one with 7 for the ac version and one with just 5 for the non ac version, but the slide control box is the same on a wrangler with ac and one without. I flipped the selector around one mine and can confirmed the AC does indeed blow on the feet and uppers, my first TJ must have had the a broken actuator! Keeping the slide controls!
 
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I looked at a bunch of control units and noticed there are two sets of groves on the selector track, one with 7 for the ac version and one with just 5 for the non ac version, but the slide control box is the same on a wrangler with ac and one without. I flipped the selector around one mine and can confirmed the AC does indeed blow on the feet and uppers, my first TJ must have had the a broken actuator! Keeping the slide controls!

Good man! (y)

The sliders are more reliable and look better anyway.
 
I looked at a bunch of control units and noticed there are two sets of groves on the selector track, one with 7 for the ac version and one with just 5 for the non ac version, but the slide control box is the same on a wrangler with ac and one without. I flipped the selector around one mine and can confirmed the AC does indeed blow on the feet and uppers, my first TJ must have had the a broken actuator! Keeping the slide controls!
Hello, do you by chance have a picture of what the control unit looks like? Today I slid my AC from regular to max and now its decided to only blow on the floor and side defrosters. Thanks
 
Here is a few pics. Note, the little notch in the top tells you if its on the 5 or 7 selection setting. You can take a non-AC version, undo the pin holding the slider in, take it off, flip the gray selector and put it back and have the seven selections. Good luck finding a new control graphic though. The one I got in my JeepAir kit was a modified 5 selector graphic, guess they didn't know you could switch them. Let them know but they couldn't (or wouldn't) print me a new decal for the front of the control so I just bought a used one. Note, used slide controls are pricey!


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Attachments

  • 97-98 Wrangler TJ - How to Swap 5 Selection HVAC Controls to 7 Selection.pdf
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Does anyone have any pictures of the harnesses and how they are spliced in?

I'm confused on the what harnesses are needed. I purchased a box from a 99' to put in my 98'. It has the wiring to the actuators, etc. , but it sounds like I also need a 99' instrument panel wiring harness to splice into my existing instrument panel wiring harness and then connect to the wiring on the 99' AC box?

Any insight here would be very helpful
Hey! Were you able to complete this swap? I am pretty much doing the same thing with a 99 into a 98 except the control panel and pig tail were from a 2001. I'm trying to figure out the wiring as well.
 
Hey! Were you able to complete this swap? I am pretty much doing the same thing with a 99 into a 98 except the control panel and pig tail were from a 2001. I'm trying to figure out the wiring as well.
I ended up keeping my slide controls (liked the old school look and its what my first TJ had too) so no wiring swap for me.

However if you have slides and decide to keep them, there is a way to change the controller from a 5 option Non-AC to a 7 option AC with the same head. Write up above. Also, the kit I got from Jeep Air, they did not know you could do this so they had the vacuum actuator tapped off a different line which I did not like. I pulled the green vacuum line off the 99 box I had bought and installed it on my 98 for proper function.

If you decide to go similar route and have questions just reach out. I have a bunch of pics on it.
 
How to.png

I got it to work!!!!!!! Save yourself hours with this diagram!

This is assuming you already switched to your newer heater box assembly and need help with wiring! Note: I use the terms “old” for your Jeep and “new” for the donor Jeep parts.
  • Get your new warning harness and find the big green connector.
  • Cut out all the electrical tape and follow the wires. Super easy!
  • All of the wires are connected to the big green connector and the A/C control unit except for two wires: A big red wire with a blue tracer and a two small (double) red wire with a green tracer. Note: They may be different colors on different years, but the idea is still the same.
  • All you have to do is remove those wires from the new BUS and connect it to your old BUS. Easy plug and play. Either splice the wires from the new wires to the old wires. Or remove the old wires carefully from the old connector socket and insert the new wires into the corresponding sockets on the old connector socket. Make sure you cap off the old wires with the electrical cap. The location is located at #1 on my diagram with the green checkmark. The location of the connector sockets on my diagram are correct (just match it up the color and size).
  • Next, on the back of the A/C control unit, there are two really small wires! A light green wire and an orange wire. All you have to do is locate your old A/C control unit’s connectors and splice the new wire onto the old wires. Match up the colors! Located at #2 with the green checkmark.
  • Send all black wires including the black wire with a white tracer to ground connection. I connected it to the right speaker’s ground screw.
  • That’s it. It’s super easy.
 
I just upgraded my heater box one with a/c and the newer control's. I used the parts from 2004 TJ. Mine is a 1997. There is a difference in the boxes. The newer one has the blower fan completely inside the jeep and the older one the blower motor sticks through a hole in the firewall. The newer box fits fine you just have to block off the hole. I used a piece of sheet metal and rivets. I have photos I will try to get posted. I don't have all the outside a/c parts yet. Have to get those parts together.
 
So the sheet metal patch is on the inside behind the heater box. I will get a photo of the outside. it looks pretty good under the hood.

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This is a COPY AND PASTE from a different forum.

Just saw your posts about wanting to convert to rotary knobs on your Wrangler. I had bought a '98 Sahara new and like yourself, I did not like the slide controls either once I saw the rotary knobs. I converted mine over, but it was an involved process, but I enjoyed it once I got into it. First, you have to have a different heater/AC box assembly because when Jeep changed the controls in '99, they also changed the heater housing to accomodate a small electric motor that attaches to the lower housing. This is what controls the temperature from the dash controls versus the old style with the direct cable. I know, you are probably thinking that you can just get a different lower housing and attach to the upper housing. I thought the same, but those housings are expensive from the dealer,(about $134) so I went the junkyard route and paid $75 for a complete housing out of a 2000. You might try car-parts.com The years 1999 - 2001 will fit your jeep with no issue, but up until 2006 may work. When I got it, I took it completely apart and cleaned it with "simple green" and it looked great. If you go this route and have air condition, you must get one that has both heater and A/C, as there is a difference. I figured that since I had the thing apart, I would replace both the heater core and the evaporator. I also decided to replace the gaskets/seals on the outside of the unit. It may have been overkill, but I did not want to have to redo anything later on after reinstalling the thing. If you do this method of getting one from a junk yard, it allows you to scavenge the regulators, blower motor, and resistor and such from your old unit as they will work on the newer unit. Now the wiring harness that leads directly to your blower will not work either. You will need one from 99 -01, but chances are when you get your housing assembly, the blower motor/wiring harness will be with the unit. If not, they are on ebay. Let's see-what did I do next. Oh, yes I kept my eye on ebay for a instrument panel wiring harness from a '99' - '01. A new one is around $186 from the dealer I believe is what i was quoted. I got one on ebay for $35. It doesn't matter if it is from a hardtop or soft-top as I will explain. The difference bewteen the two as best as I could surmise was the incorporation of the rear defogger and wiper into the wiring harness. The one I got was from a softtop and I have a hardtop, but it worked out fine. If you get one from a junkyard,don't panic with all the twist and turns you see in the wiring loom. The only one you are interested in is the gray plug that has about 20 leads going into it. It sits behind your left speaker. If you take the speaker out, you will see this mass of wires coming to a junction. The gray connector should be the top one, if it is like me '98 and I bet it is. I got this thing and pulled out my factory service manual and compared the two. Believe it or not, the connections/wire lead-ins are the same. Before I got into really the wiring installation, I traced down what wires effected the heater/ac operation. On the gray harness I spoke of previously, only 2 leads need to be switched out. You will see a red/green tracer in one position and if I remember, a red/white tracer. The rest of the wires in your current harness can remain. What I did instead of replacing the entire wiring harness, I took the harness I got from ebay, completely stripped the tape/wrapping from the wires to be able to separate the leads for the heater/ac controls, etc. You will find the colors I spoke of earlier plus some black leads that are grounds, orange wire which is for lighting and a green lead. Once you get a harness, you will see what I am talking about. I looked at the leads coming from the plug-ins to the new heater controls and that is how i detemined what I needed to keep and chunk the rest. I took the wires I determined that were required and wound them in electricians tape, then tied them with tie wraps to my existing harness. Most of the wires coming from the new controls go to your heater blower motor, blend door actuator, and the heater relay. The only ones going to the left side of the Jeep that plug into the gray harness are the red/green, red/white and the green wire. The green wire plugs into a plug-in down by your left kick panel. As I said, I did not replace the wiring harness already in my Jeep and at the gray plug-in, I simply pulled out the 2 appropriate leads and inserted the 2 leads from my newer harness. As for the green wire, you will have to contort under the dash, find that plug and remove/replace the green wire. You will also have some ground wires with eyelets, but they are grounds and you should see where they attach to the side by right kick panel. It sounds difficult, but it is not, Very straightforward actually. The hardest part is removing the heater assembly. You have to have to have the a/c system evacutated, disconnect you heater hoses, then the five nuts on the engine side of the firewall. On the interior, you have to remove the dash which means removing the steering wheel. In order to not worry about the airbag, disconnect your negative battery cable and let it sit for about 15 minutes. I went the safe route and took the whole battery out. Don't want that thing exploding on me. I got my new dash controls off ebay. There were 2 **** on the back of it that are for alignment purposes I guess, dremmeled those bad boys off and widened the mounting holes to line up with my dash holes, worked perfectly.
I put everything back together, carried it back to the Jeep dealer for recharge and believe it or not, it works like a champ. I love it! Costs: I probably have $600 in it, but I replaced the heater core and evaporator. You may choose not to. My advice is to take your time and have patience. The overall job is not that hard other than getting the dash out. Parts list: Heater/AC housing assembly- used from junkyard- I do not know where you live, but I got mine from Jones Autp Parts in Paoli, Indiana 812-723-5766. If you use car-parts.com, you will see others. Jones ships you the entire unit that includes the blower and wiring harness that goes to the the blower motor. Be sure you specify a unit that has both ac/heater. Seals/Gaskets - 4874069AB,4874068,4874064 Instrument Panel Wiring Harness- used,may can get it from the same place you get the heater/ac assembly Dash Control Unit - EBay or Jeepsareus.com Heater Core/Evaporator - if you choose to get one, I got mine from the local Carquest auto parts store as they were cheaper than the dealer.

Have you done this conversion? Do you know who originally posted this?