Will a 32RH work well with 4.88 gears and 35s?

Yes that'd be a good thing knowing it was good after being rebuilt. But that he said it had started to slip a bit may also just mean it's low on ATF. I've been on the trail twice when someone indicated their 32RH was slipping and all that was wrong was that it was low on ATF. Bringing up to the full mark with ATF+4 fixed it.
Wow. That would be good feeling
 
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You can buy a 32rh rebuild kit for $150. You’ll need other stuff for the swap if you’re moving from a manual.
Well you want redline clutches, kolene steels, if you get the thin ones, you can add an extra one, billet accumulator and servos, and several other upgrades to get rid of the plastics inside of it. A correct converter will also help, jeeps stall at a different rpm than a race car which most converters are built for. I run 4.11 and 34” tires with the 32 rh, I also have a 727 for a Jeep but the first gear is 2.45 vs the 32’s 2.7 to one first gear. Tim
 
Well you want redline clutches, kolene steels, if you get the thin ones, you can add an extra one, billet accumulator and servos, and several other upgrades to get rid of the plastics inside of it. A correct converter will also help, jeeps stall at a different rpm than a race car which most converters are built for. I run 4.11 and 34” tires with the 32 rh, I also have a 727 for a Jeep but the first gear is 2.45 vs the 32’s 2.7 to one first gear. Tim
Most of that went way over my head.
 
Most of that went way over my head.

Which parts? When building an auto tranny you can add extra discs to the the clutch pack on some applications by using thinner clutch discs. As technology has improved so has the materials used on the discs. It's one friction disc than a steel plate then a friction disc then a steel plate and so on. Or Kevlar instead of steel. The more popular transmission of course have more options. The other thing is that on some models you can use a heavier duty part from a different model.
The billet parts are just stronger parts compared to stock parts.

Getting the correct size torque converter makes a difference in how the transmission acts. For street/strip a lot of times you go for a higher stall speed but for off-road you want a lower stall speed.
 
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Well you want redline clutches, kolene steels, if you get the thin ones, you can add an extra one, billet accumulator and servos, and several other upgrades to get rid of the plastics inside of it. A correct converter will also help, jeeps stall at a different rpm than a race car which most converters are built for. I run 4.11 and 34” tires with the 32 rh, I also have a 727 for a Jeep but the first gear is 2.45 vs the 32’s 2.7 to one first gear. Tim
Thanks , sounds like you’ve done it before .
What’s a 727?
 
Which parts? When building an auto tranny you can add extra discs to the the clutch pack on some applications by using thinner clutch discs. As technology has improved so has the materials used on the discs. It's one friction disc than a steel plate then a friction disc then a steel plate and so on. Or Kevlar instead of steel. The more popular transmission of course have more options. The other thing is that on some models you can use a heavier duty part from a different model.
The billet parts are just stronger parts compared to stock parts.

Getting the correct size torque converter makes a difference in how the transmission acts. For street/strip a lot of times you go for a higher stall speed but for off-road you want a lower stall speed.
I need to research all this
 
The biggest driveability issue I see with 4.88 and the 32RH is that 2nd gear is not usable at higher freeway speeds. You would be relying on 3rd gear at 3100-3300 RPM to climb hills and pass people as well as to cruise. With 4.10, you can easily downshift at 70-75 mph to 2nd and run right in the powerband at around 4500+ RPM to climb hills and pass with ease.

Bumping this. Running 4.10 in a 97 with 32RH. When I step on it to pass at 70-75 it will not down shift 3-2 I have to manual down shift. When I step in the pedal you can feel the trans kind of shake forward and back so I let off. Any ideas what’s going on.

Dana 44 front 4:10
8.8 rear 4:10
70mph 2900ish rpm
 
Bumping this. Running 4.10 in a 97 with 32RH. When I step on it to pass at 70-75 it will not down shift 3-2 I have to manual down shift. When I step in the pedal you can feel the trans kind of shake forward and back so I let off. Any ideas what’s going on.

Dana 44 front 4:10
8.8 rear 4:10
70mph 2900ish rpm

have you adjusted your kickdown cable?
 
have you adjusted your kickdown cable?
X2, a misadjusted TV (throttle valve aka kickdown) cable can screw up how well it will downshift to 2nd by stepping hard on the gas pedal. The kickdown cable needs to be just taut enough to not have any slack where it connects to the throttle lever. It sounds like yours is either too loose or maybe even missing.
 
X2, a misadjusted TV (throttle valve aka kickdown) cable can screw up how well it will downshift to 2nd by stepping hard on the gas pedal. The kickdown cable needs to be just taut enough to not have any slack where it connects to the throttle lever. It sounds like yours is either too loose or maybe even missing.

what could be missing?
 
It was such a small adjustment for me, but what a difference it can make. I played with it until I got it set to my type of driving.
If you can take a picture of the top of the engine area where the TV and throttle cable attach we may can give some more advice.
 
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It was such a small adjustment for me, but what a difference it can make. I played with it until I got it set to my type of driving.
If you can take a picture of the top of the engine area where the TV and throttle cable attach we may can give some more advice.
I took a peek has a white cover that can be removed. i dont see how the adjustment is made. followed it down to the gas pedal, there were 2 cables. then the other cable connected t the transmission.
The TV cable itself. As in perhaps it wasn't replaced/reinstalled during a transmission overhaul, conversion, etc.
it is intact. it was overhauled PO said it needed TC replaced years back. cruising at 70. if i floor it the jeep pulls/jerks/ front and back kinda in a way as if its trying to down shift. i can just manually shift it and it be fine.
 
I took a peek has a white cover that can be removed. i dont see how the adjustment is made. followed it down to the gas pedal, there were 2 cables. then the other cable connected t the transmission.
The adjustment is made by moving the TV cable's outer sheath out or in after the white plastic clip is pulled outward to release it. It snaps into place.
 
The adjustment is made by moving the TV cable's outer sheath out or in after the white plastic clip is pulled outward to release it. It snaps into place.

It should be mentioned that the plastic clip is fairly delicate and needs to be pried up just a small amount to release the grip on the teeth it snaps back down onto. It only needs to raise a small amount and eased up with a small flat blade screwdriver or it can break.

The cable housing should be moved to get the slack out of the cable and then only a couple of teeth further away from the throttle body. A couple of teeth is about 1/16" or so, maybe a tiny bit more.