What did you do to your TJ today?

The flip brackets take advantage of a neat little aspect of control cables. A control cable only works when the housing is constrained by a bracket or mount with enough strength to withstand the forces needed to actuate the function and produce the end result desired. That means if the housing end moves, the cable won't be able to do its job. You can invert that and lock down one end of the cable and let the housing do the work with exactly the same function.

Since the movement, friction level, forces, and angles are identical to the stock functions, there is zero detriment endured by either the housing, cable, or cable ends. The only difference is which one moves and we've not had a single reported failure of any aspect of the system with 1000's in use.
Mr. Blaine,
Thanks for the info , nice to know what he did has been done before with success . I could see how it would work just fine but you never know what un seen problem can arise using something other than intended . So I guess you recommend them mounted that way and supply the parts to use the stock cables. Clever way to fix that problem and great that it works. It's wonderful that you have worked out all the problems for those who want a plug and play experience . Not everyone has fab skills and others don't want the hassle and you provide a good service..... much to be admired. I have a bit of an advantage fooling with these things being a collage educated automotive engineer ... got a few stories about that !
Nice chatting with you....William
 
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View attachment 379509Weather was pretty good today so I rolled the chassis outside to go ahead and weld in the new motor mounts after finding out the engine hoist I borrowed from my buddy won't reach out far enough to lift the HEMI in the frame... So off to HF in the morning to pick up their 2 ton hoist that reaches out about 16-18 inches farther and a couple of inches higher.. As luck would have it, they are on Black Friday sale this weekend.
I'll have to figure out which motor mount goes on which side of the motor. The Advance Adapters instructions don't specify which side..that would be handy for them to spell that out for you since they will both bolt up on either side..
Would like to use a separate transmission cross member like what Nashville TJ used. Maybe he'll let me know what he used since I couldn't find where he got the kit he welded up for his in his build thread.

Bro, please make a build thread I can subscribe to.
 
Mr. Blaine,
Thanks for the info , nice to know what he did has been done before with success . I could see how it would work just fine but you never know what un seen problem can arise using something other than intended . So I guess you recommend them mounted that way and supply the parts to use the stock cables. Clever way to fix that problem and great that it works. It's wonderful that you have worked out all the problems for those who want a plug and play experience . Not everyone has fab skills and others don't want the hassle and you provide a good service..... much to be admired. I have a bit of an advantage fooling with these things being a collage educated automotive engineer ... got a few stories about that !
Nice chatting with you....William

They exist to solve a problem with the rear calipers when you outboard the shocks and don't want to lean them way back to clear the caliper bodies under articulation. The easy answer is to flip them to the front side by swapping the backing plates and calipers side for side. Unfortunately that reverses the parking brake cable mount to the back side instead of the front as designed by the OEM. I needed a way to make that work again, so we came up with those cable function reversers. ;)
 
getting my "groove on". Winter weather this week and these tires could be a little better- warming up the grooving iron- free upgrade while i sort out the future lift /tire combinations

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Cleaned out the cowl drain and the blower air intake - both were full of dirt, leaves and gunk. Put a bead of sealant around the blower air intake to block water from entering and making it's way to the passenger floorboard. Incidentally, I discovered that in the past, as the water has dripped from the cowl area to the floorboard, it flowed right over the fuse box and all the wiring/connections behind the glove compartment. Hoping my cleaning and sealant will avert a major electrical catastrophe.
 
Had a few small drips under my rear diff. Discovered the grommet for my elocker wires pulled into the diff. Pulled the cover to inspect, luckily the wires were fine. Reseated the grommet and got to use a lubelocker I received for Christmas a couple years ago. Also removed the CB I installed several years ago and upgraded to a Midland MTX500.

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Removed the Trek Top and reinstalled the hard top for the trip back to Arkansas. I'm selling the top to a friend and that's the easiest way to transport it.
I had to drive about 8 miles from the RV park to the storage with no top on. Since it was a beautiful 70 degrees in Quartzsite yesterday it was really hard to put the hardtop back on, wanted to stay topless. Maybe next year.