Dumb spring swap questions

Zorba

Zorba

"The Veiled Male"
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Merritt Island, Fl
I'm (finally) ready to swap in my H&R springs, and did an "exploratory surgery" today, just to get a feel for things. This is how far I got:

DSC01055.JPG


Swaybar link disconnected, shock unbolted at bottom. Opposite side still completely together, tire just barely resting on the ground. No tierods or drag links disconnected.

I was "real close", the spring was loose and could be rotated. I've read differing opinions about what to do to get a bit more drop on the axle.

1) Disconnect tierod and/or drag link. Not sure what that would do, and don't want to do so if I don't have to.
2) Jack up the other end of the axle a bit. Makes some sense.
3) Disconnect swaybar link on other end?
4) Use a spring compressor to get the extra couple of inches needed to be able to swing the spring out.

As an aside, why is the lettering on the H&R springs going to be upside down when installed? Its pretty obvious that they have to go in that way and I've seen the same in pictures of others. Anyway, a bit of guidance would be appreciated - this is a quasi-BFD for this tyro...
 
You shouldn't need a spring compressor and one end of the sway bar should be enough.

Loosen the control arm bolts and the axle end track bar bolt so the bushings aren't fighting you.

You might be able to get by without disconnecting any steering...that'll more likely be an issue on the passenger side.

Jacking up the opposite end of the axle works as long as you jack outboard of the spring so it turns the spring into the fulcrum. Inboard won't get you anywhere.

I've always had to disconnect the track bar but it's been a minute since I pulled stock springs. You might not have to but if the above doesn't get you there, that's next.
 
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Don't use a spring compressor, this can definitely done without it. Disconnecting more stuff can help - but not the steering links. Get that other tire off, you'll need to go up and down with either end of the axle.

The last straw for me was disconnecting the axle end of the lower control arm - it "pinches". Lift the far end of the axle, and then push down on your end of the axle. Spring should lift right out.
 
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Also don't forget the driver spring has a little retainer tab on the bottom end. It's tucked in the inboard rear of the spring so it's not always super visible.
 
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OldBuzzard said:
Here's why you have to remove the lower control arm bolt at the axle:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/oldbuzzards-2005-jeep-wrangler-unlimited.56357/post-1002039
WARNING: Only remove one LCA bolt at a time, and put it back before doing the other side. Otherwise the spring pressure will tilt the diff and you'll have a terrible time getting it back straight.
Click to expand...

Ah, good call. I haven't had stock arms since 2012 and my current arms didn't run into that issue until trying to run 4" Rockjock springs.
 
Zorba said:
As an aside, why is the lettering on the H&R springs going to be upside down when installed? Its pretty obvious that they have to go in that way and I've seen the same in pictures of others. Anyway, a bit of guidance would be appreciated - this is a quasi-BFD for this tyro...
Click to expand...

I have no idea why they printed them like that. Just a quirk of these springs, I guess.
IMG_3306.jpg


I didn't really follow the advice of the folks in this thread. I bought a set of spring compressors at Harbor Freight. I've used them a few times now and have never had a problem with them. It is safer to do it without compressors though, so you'd probably be wise to listen to the guys that are smarter than me.
 
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I swapped my stock springs recently, and followed the write-up on here by @fuse. I found that raising the opposite side of the axle is what made it possible to remove the springs. Instead of using a jack, I just drove the Jeep up on a service ramp on only one side, and then removed the opposite wheel to work on that side. Pics here and notes here (scroll to bottom of post).
 
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To me, it looks like once you remove the lower spring retaining clip, you should be able to put a boot on the hub, push down while you lift up on the spring and could pop out.
 
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Zorba said:
As an aside, why is the lettering on the H&R springs going to be upside down when installed? Its pretty obvious that they have to go in that way and I've seen the same in pictures of others.
Click to expand...

I just replaced all the control arms with Moog oem control arms this past week and every arm has “Moog“ stenciled on the out facing side upside down… strange!
 
Got the front springs done - thanx to you guys' excellent advice and hand holding. Little problem other than getting the bolt head & washer from the LCA to drop into the "centering slot" or whatever its called. Had to massage it by moving the Jeep about on the driveway. Passenger side dropped in pretty quick, driver's side fought me a bit.


539.jpg


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53a.jpg
 
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OldBuzzard said:
Glad you got 'em in there.

Now you'll need a toe-in alignment. It'll be a little pigeon-toed.
Click to expand...

It needed an alignment anyway. After I get the rears on, then its off to the alignment shop. Then I'll need the speed-o-healer widget, and it'll finally be time for new tires!
 
Why not do your own toe-in alignment (about the only thing that can be adjusted on a TJ)? If you do your own, and you still want to take it to a shop, you can ask them for a printout of the initial test to see how close you got it. It's pretty easy to get it as good as the shop does.
 
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@Zorba if you can do the lift the alignment is easy. At 24” toe in 1/8”.
 
Zorba said:
I'll just leave it to the pros. I have lifetime alignment at Firestone.
Click to expand...

I would be the pros. I’m not going to do it for ya though! 🤣 Looking good so far!
 
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