A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

jjvw said:
And if you were to stretch, would you move the entire frame arch backwards with the complete suspension? Or notch the upper spring seat into the frame? Or leave the upper and lower spring seat offset?
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I’ve been thinking about this briefly in my head trying to see it all in relation and final outcomes. Wouldn’t it be best to move the entire frame arch back with the suspension?

What about order? If you’ve already outboarded, wouldn’t you want to move the whole frame arch back with the suspension, then move your midarm frame brackets back on the frame?

Ideally, if you’ve done nothing, frame stretch moving entire frame arch back with suspension, then midarm, then outboard.

Cut your tub and corner armor to match.

That’s what I think would look best.
 
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JMT said:
I’ve been thinking about this briefly in my head trying to see it all in relation and final outcomes. Wouldn’t it be best to move the entire frame arch back with the suspension?

What about order? If you’ve already outboarded, wouldn’t you want to move the whole frame arch back with the suspension, then move your midarm frame brackets back on the frame?

Ideally, if you’ve done nothing, frame stretch moving entire frame arch back with suspension, then midarm, then outboard.

Cut your tub and corner armor to match.

That’s what I think would look best.
Click to expand...

Frame arch includes the frame side control arm mounts. And the outboard shock towers would end up in about the same position relative to the axle, control arms, etc.
 
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jjvw said:
Frame arch includes the frame side control arm mounts. And the outboard shock towers would end up in about the same position relative to the axle, control arms, etc.
Click to expand...

When you say "frame arch includes the frame side control arm mounts," you mean the midarm brackets? If yes, then yeah, just cut the frame fore of the midarm brackets and move the whole thing back. Then everything is right where it was before 4-5" back. How do you cut the frame? Do you cut at an angle, add the frame length, then weld up and fish plate on the inside and outside?
 
JMT said:
When you say "frame arch includes the frame side control arm mounts," you mean the midarm brackets? If yes, then yeah, just cut the frame fore of the midarm brackets and move the whole thing back. Then everything is right where it was before 4-5" back. How do you cut the frame? Do you cut at an angle, add the frame length, then weld up and fish plate on the inside and outside?
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That would include the mid arm brackets. The frame gets cut right at the point where the frame becomes parallel. That is where the patch pieces would go. The cuts are plated on the inside with lots of plug welds. In a perfect world, the mid arm brackets would cover one of the splices.
 
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jjvw said:
That would include the mid arm brackets. The frame gets cut right at the point where the frame becomes parallel. That is where the patch pieces would go. The cuts are plated on the inside with lots of plug welds. In a perfect world, the mid arm brackets would cover one of the splices.
Click to expand...

Since you're already outboarded, that seems like the best way. When I did my rear stretch I had to notch the arch for the spring buckets and then the outboard moved back accordingly. Luckily I had just enough room for the filler neck and breather with the Poly tower. I do love my new departure angle though, I don't even touch the tank skid anymore. I have the EXT tank and got 5" of rear stretch, you would need more to get to your wheelbase number. I look forward to seeing the results.
 
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Sj's TJ said:
Since you're already outboarded, that seems like the best way. When I did my rear stretch I had to notch the arch for the spring buckets and then the outboard moved back accordingly. Luckily I had just enough room for the filler neck and breather with the Poly tower. I do love my new departure angle though, I don't even touch the tank skid anymore. I have the EXT tank and got 5" of rear stretch, you would need more to get to your wheelbase number. I look forward to seeing the results.
Click to expand...

You're a bad influence! ;)
 
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I had previously installed a Bartact rear seat cover. As part of a Black Friday sale, a front seat set was ordered. While installing them, I also added lumbar support.

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Irun said:
While I had the tires of I switched back to the A/T tires that were originally on the Jeep. Something else I learned is daily driving M/T tires sucks big time. The ride went to shit and the noise was unbearable.

I also learned that you don't need to put a bunch of 271 Locktite on the wheel threads. Getting the lug nuts broken loose from the JT adapters was not fun. That crap is serious business! 🤪

View attachment 332848
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This post right here, this is where I loved this Jeep most. Commenting so i can find again when time to build another.
 
Apparition said:
It annoys me they don't show what the actual switch looks like. I figured it'd be easy enough.
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You mean from this angle?
This a typical air switch.
There are other things to consider also that I didn't think of when I posted before. Some switches can also be use to turn on a compressor some are just air valves that you would use if you have a pressurized air system already. The switch in my last post has the compressor control built in to it. (you would need to run a relay for the pump)
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reddvltj said:
You mean from this angle?
This a typical air switch.
There are other things to consider also that I didn't think of when I posted before. Some switches can also be use to turn on a compressor some are just air valves that you would use if you have a pressurized air system already. The switch in my last post has the compressor control built in to it. (you would need to run a relay for the pump)
View attachment 382008
Click to expand...

They should show it
 
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A buddy sold his Jeep and gave me a new PSC cylinder assist, and associated parts, that he never installed. Since PSC had a sale on Black Friday, I ordered a few PSC steering parts to replace the factory box and pump. I'm not going to fight pulling the stock pitman arm, so I'll order a replacement Mopar part there as well.

Replacement Power Steering Pump for PSC PK1852 and PK40JP2 Pump Kits, 1997-2006 Jeep TJ 4.0L
PSC Remote Reservoir Mounting Bracket for 1996-2006 Jeep 4.0L
Off Road Remote Fluid Reservoir 7.25" Tall
Hose Kit for PSC SG400/R Steering Gearbox Conversion, 2003-06 Jeep LJ/TJ
SG400R - Big Bore XD Cylinder Assist Steering Gearbox for 2003-06 Jeep LJ/TJ
SR-VT - Fluid Anti-Splash Valve for PSC Offroad Series Remote Fluid Reservoirs
 
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Irun said:
A buddy sold his Jeep and gave me a new PSC cylinder assist, and associated parts, that he never installed. Since PSC had a sale on Black Friday, I ordered a few PSC steering parts to replace the factory box and pump. I'm not going to fight pulling the stock pitman arm, so I'll order a replacement Mopar part there as well.

Replacement Power Steering Pump for PSC PK1852 and PK40JP2 Pump Kits, 1997-2006 Jeep TJ 4.0L
PSC Remote Reservoir Mounting Bracket for 1996-2006 Jeep 4.0L
Off Road Remote Fluid Reservoir 7.25" Tall
Hose Kit for PSC SG400/R Steering Gearbox Conversion, 2003-06 Jeep LJ/TJ
SG400R - Big Bore XD Cylinder Assist Steering Gearbox for 2003-06 Jeep LJ/TJ
SR-VT - Fluid Anti-Splash Valve for PSC Offroad Series Remote Fluid Reservoirs
Click to expand...

I've got a pitman arm puller that has worked for me several times on different vehicles if you want to borrow it. Just let me know.
 
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