What's going on with my lugnuts?
- Thread starter Cheetokps
- Start date
in all my years of driving i’ve never put a torque wrench on a lug nut. always get them nuts finger tight then tighten them up with a 4-way. only problem i’ve ever had was due to tire shop using to much air pressure stripping the lug studs. tire shop made it good by reimbursing me for new studs and lugs.
Like you I never used a torque wrench until I had a Silverado that always had jumpy brakes. Felt like riding a horse. I was told by a long time mechanic that I was warping the rotors, so from then on I’ve used a torque wrench. Even though I always torque now, I believe torquing them down is a waste of time if you’re conscious of how much you’re actually tightening them.
After replacing both drums, rotors, and all wear pads the Silverado still bounced like a horse. Torquing wheels is for repetitive consistency at a tire shop or folks that aren’t experienced mechanics. Just my opinion.
I started torquing lug nuts after speaking with a field service engineer. He was telling me a dealer had huge brake pulsation issues he had them but torque sticks for the impacts and cut the return rate by over 80%.
I do run mine down with a impact but then go around with a torque wrench. Takes an extra minute.
The shoulder sticks out beyond the axle I don’t know if it’s enough to cause a problem, the studs look too short also.
Sorry if I came across like I was trying to teach you a lesson. It was really for him. I know you know. Wish this was solved. Strange.
TheGanzman
TJ Enthusiast
For whatever MY 2 cents is worth, I would buy AMERICAN wheel studs and lug nuts if at ALL possible, regardless of cost! It's been my experience that Asian "metallurgy" is...not so good...
Sidebar: I have drawerfuls of original high nickel content fasteners that I got from my Dad's workshop after he passed, all from the 50's & 60's. They're still bright & shiny; virtually time-machine new. They also survive multiple "cycles" of tightening/loosening with NO evidence of wear, even if I look at the fasteners under a jeweler's loupe. By contrast, the cheap crapola that we're forced to buy at Lowe's/Home Depot - geez! The Phillips head screw "crosses" get fcuked up after just a couple of tightening/loosening cycles - what are they...Rockwell Hardness 1?
Whenever my wife drags me to Estate Sales I make a beeline for the guy's garage - if I'm lucky enough to find some vintage fasteners, I buy 'em up with immediate dispatch for the shortest of money; whoever is running the Estate Sale has NO idea what they're "worth"! Go and do likewise, Gents!
Sidebar: I have drawerfuls of original high nickel content fasteners that I got from my Dad's workshop after he passed, all from the 50's & 60's. They're still bright & shiny; virtually time-machine new. They also survive multiple "cycles" of tightening/loosening with NO evidence of wear, even if I look at the fasteners under a jeweler's loupe. By contrast, the cheap crapola that we're forced to buy at Lowe's/Home Depot - geez! The Phillips head screw "crosses" get fcuked up after just a couple of tightening/loosening cycles - what are they...Rockwell Hardness 1?
Whenever my wife drags me to Estate Sales I make a beeline for the guy's garage - if I'm lucky enough to find some vintage fasteners, I buy 'em up with immediate dispatch for the shortest of money; whoever is running the Estate Sale has NO idea what they're "worth"! Go and do likewise, Gents!
Unless it is larger than the hole in the brake drum, that is a non issue.
Bought a mix of nuts and bolts from harbor freight just because it was cheap and works in a pinch. Funny thing is they are metric and neither metric nor sae sockets fit them?
Yes, I was thinking the wrong studs were installed. The studs look short to me but don’t really have good pictures of the wheels and studs to see what’s going on.
It would be most helpful to get pics of the lugnuts, holes in the rim, and anything else that might affect this issue. We've had it happen before when the owner used extended nose lug nuts that were just a few thou longer than the depth of the hole in the rim. They would go in, tighten up, and then not fully clamp the rim in place. A few miles of driving and they would loosen. Tighten them back up, same thing in another few miles.
That’s standard for Chinese crap. I work on the waterfront and all our cranes are made in China now. I use a machine shop to build most parts as lead times from China can be 6 months to a year out. Anything with threads I need to provide a sample and the pitch may or may not be standard. The shop will cut to fit what it threads into.
I have seen it also this closed end lug nuts bottoming out on the end of the studs also.
Pretty rare with today's lug nuts since that just pops the little cap out the end now.
OP
I was planning on getting pictures, however since I had a shop tighten the lug nuts last I don’t really want to take them off if I don’t need to in case somehow I was the issue. Here is the link for the studs I bought however: Dorman 610-364 Wheel Stud 1/2"-20 X 1-15/32", Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIV2WK/?tag=wranglerorg-20. I think I followed a link straight from somewhere on here