OP
Pretty sure all model years came with bolts and heavy cone washers. Most likely whatever hardware was leftover from the AMC days...
Boostwerks Engineering Jeep 4.0 Titanium Manifold Stud Kit (V2.0) Review
- Thread starter Trevlaw
- Start date
Pretty sure all model years came with bolts and heavy cone washers. Most likely whatever hardware was leftover from the AMC days...
OP
I can make you a set out of plastic if you'd like
So, you replaced the factory bolts with the studs? I got confused with all the talk about buying studs from McMaster and whatnot. Thought you had studs to begin with
Front and rears on the 2.5 and 4.0's should be factory torx tip studs and the remainder bolts.
With all the flirting going on you guys better end up banging
https://www.boostwerksengineering.com/Jeep-40L-Titanium-Manifold-Stud-Kit-V20_p_39.html
Because I hadn't seen the link posted yet. Maybe i missed it.
Because I hadn't seen the link posted yet. Maybe i missed it.
Actually I wasn’t trying to hurt anyone’s feelings, I was just curious about the issues of titanium being a very hard metal. I pity those folks that install stainless in their cast thinking they won’t have corrosion problems. My second thought is there any dissimilar metal problems with titanium and cast? Ain’t no fun like trying to get galled stainless bolts out of cast or mild steel. Where does titanium fit into this?
OP
Idk, you'll probably need to drill out two holes and maybe enlarge a slot? Should fit like the factory manifold?
And stop thinking about me naked
OP
If you don't want it to gall slap some nickel based anti seize on it.
If you don't want to have to drill through it, don't snap it off.
Even the shiniest bit from home Depot isn't going to magically go through a hard bolt, grade 8 or titanium, let alone when being used in a hand drill.
If you're gonna get a broken bolt out the right way then it doesn't really matter what the bolt's made out of, it all kind of cuts the same when you know what you're doing
You made me curious so I tried to learn a little bit.
It seems that galvanic corrosion shouldn't be an issue since the smaller fasteners are the more noble material and because there shouldn't be liquid between the materials for transmitting galvanic current. Also, a layer of Titanium dioxide (TiO2) forms to protect the Ti from corrosion, but I'm not sure how much that would help prevent galvanic corrosion.
This would be more problematic if the fastening points were exposed to salt water (electrolyte). Fresh water causes a reaction at a much slower rate than salt water. These parts see high heat so a freshwater crossing shouldn't be a problem assuming the parts stay hot enough to burn off the water.
I'd also run the engine after spraying the engine bay, which makes sense to do for other reasons as well.
The webpage says to use medium-strength threadlock so the studs don't back out. This should also help prevent galling. This is interesting since most folks say to use anti-seize, but the difference might be that these are titanium fasteners.
Although liquid for a short period of time, thread lock is said to prevent galvanic corrosion rather than aiding in causing it.
Quick note on medium-strength threadlock: Threadlocker 246 (450*) has a higher heat rating than 243 (360*) and 242 (300*). I'm not sure if it matters much since our manifolds get hotter than that (especially mine with a newly installed turbo).
Disclaimer: I'm no expert just trying to learn.
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Stainless steel fasteners should be fine going into the cast iron head regarding compatibility, but one would introduce galvanic corrosion by adding copper anti-seize.
You should use nickel-based for ss fasteners same as you would use for titanium like @Trevlaw suggested.
98Wrangler
New Member
Copper for galvanic and salt water. Nickel based for acid corrosive environments. Both are for high heat environments but nickel for the more extreme heat environments.
OP
Two on top first, then hold those in place by clamping the mic, grab third wire from nearby surface, slowly open mic while keeping the rotating anvil pressed down against the top two wires, open until third wire slips in and close to measure. Gets a bit trickier above 1" diameter
OP
I think the thread locker instructions are kind of silly, considering you heat up loctite to remove a fastener.
I just picked nickel anti seize because it had a higher temp rating than copper.
I don't know a bunch about titanium, but I think grade 6 has the best thermal expansion qualities and I assumed he picked grade 6 because of that.
I put a lot less thought into this than some of you guys, I just wanted to make sure the threads were good.
Honestly I was most impressed with the broaching. Never have I ever setup a rotary broach and not had the face of the broach look like a chewed up dog toy.